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(gift  of 


jfwlunnimt  Club 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


Describes  the  Various  Makes  and  Tells  How 

to  Use  Them — Also  Chapters  on 

Care  of  Pelts,  Etc. 


BY 

A.  R.  HARDING. 


PUBLISHED  BY 

A.  R.  HARDING  PUBLISHING  CO, 

COLUMBUS,    OHIO 


tr. 


Copyright  1907 
By  A.  R.  HARDING. 


CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER.  PAGE. 

I.  SEWELL  NEWHOUSE    21 

II.  WELL  MADE  TRAPS 27 

III.  A  FEW  FAILURES 33 

IV.  SOME  EUROPEAN  TRAPS 38 

V.  PROPER  SIZES    41 

VI.  NEWHOUSE   TRAPS    50 

VII.  DOUBLE  AND  WEBBED  JAW  TRAPS 65 

VIII.  VICTOR  AND  HAWLEY  &  NORTON  TRAPS 72 

IX.  JUMP  TRAPS    75 

X.  TREE  TRAPS 81 

XL  STOP   THIEF   TRAPS 86 

XII.  WIDE   SPREADING  JAWS 90 

XIII.  CARING   FOR   TRAPS  . 98 

XIV.  MARKING  TRAPS    108 

XV.  How  TO  FASTEN 112 

XVI.  How   TO    SET 117 

XVII.  WHERE  TO   SET 133 

XVIII.  LOOKING   AT   TRAPS 143 

XIX.  MYSTERIOUSLY  SPRUNG  TRAPS 152 

XX.  GOOD  DENS   160 

7 


g  ro. \TKXTS. 

CHAPTER.  PAGE- 

XXI.  THE   PROPER   BAIT 1TO 

XXII.  SCENT  AND  DECOYS ITS 

XXIII.  HUMAN  SCENT  AND  SIGN 191 

XXIV.  HINTS  ON   FALL  TRAPPING 204 

XXV.  LAND  TRAPPING   211 

XXVI.  WATER  TRAPPING   245 

XXVII,  WHEN  TO  TRAP 268 

XXVIII.  SOME  DEEP  WATER  SETS 273 

XXIX.  SKINNING  AND  STRETCHING 281 

XXX.  HANDLING   AND    GRADING 308 

XXXI.  FROM  ANIMAL  TO  MARKET 317 

XXXII.  MISCELLANEOUS   INFORMATION    325 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAGE: 

Newhouse   Traps  —  All    Sizes Frontispiece 

Mr.    Sewell    Newhouse 22 

The  First  Shop 24 

Old   Newhouse   Trap 26 

A  Well  Made  Trap 28 

Limb  Growing  Thru  Jaws 31 

"Bob    Tail"    Trap , .  33 

Defective   Pan   Bearing 34 

The  All   Steel 34 

The  Modified  All  Steel , 35 

Poor   Setting   Device 35 

Double  Jaw  Without  Dog 36 

The   Duplex    37 

The  "No  Cross" 37 

German  Fox  Trap 38 

English  Rabbit  Trap 39 

Awaiting   The    Trapper 42 

Wisconsin  Trapper,  Furs  and  Traps 45 

Mink,  Trapped  Under  An  Old  Root 48 

No.  0.  Newhouse  Trap 51 

9 


10  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE. 

No.  1  Newhouse  Trap 51 

No.   H  or  Mink  Trap 52 

No.  2  or  Fox  Trap 53 

No.  3  or  Otter  Trap 54 

No.  4  or  Wolf  Trap 55 

No.  2$  or  Otter  Trap  With  Teeth 55 

No.  3}  or  Extra  Strong  Otter  Trap 56 

No.  21}  Without  Teeth 57 

Offset  Jaw  Beaver  Trap 58 

Detachable    Clutch    Trap 59 

Newhouse  Special  Wolf  Trap 59 

Small  Bear  Trap 60 

Small  Bear  Trap  With  Offset  Jaws 61 

Standard   Bear   Trap 61 

Regular  Bear  Trap  With  Offset  Jaws 62 

Grizzly  Bear   Trap 62 

Bear  Trap  Chain  Clevis 63 

Steel  Trap  Setting  Clamp 64 

No.  81  or  Webbed  Jaw  Trap 67 

No.  91  or  Double  Jaw  Trap 68 

A  Morning  Catch  of  Skunk , 70 

No.    1    Victor   Trap 73 

No.  4  Victor  Trap 74 

No.   1  Oneida  Jump 77 


LIST   OF  ILLUSTRATIONS.  11 

PAGE. 

No.  4  Oneida  Jump 77 

A   "Jump"   Trap   Trapper 79 

The  Tree  Trap 82 

Tree  Trap   Set  and   Animal   Approaching 84 

Animal  Killed  in  Tree  Trap 84 

Stop   Thief  Trap 87 

Method  of  Setting  Stop  Thief  Trap 88 

Trapper's  Cabin  and  Pack  Horses 91 

Trapper  Making  Bear  Set 95 

Washing  and   Greasing  Traps 99 

Putting  the  Traps  in  Order 102 

Traps   and   Trapper 104 

Marked  and  Ready  to  Set 109 

The   Sliding   Pole 113 

A   Staple   Fastening 114 

Shallow   Water   Set 116 

Hole  Set  Before  Covering 118 

Another  Hole   Set  Before   Covering 120 

Hole   Set  After   Covering 122 

Wrong  Position  Set 124 

The  Three  Log  Set 127 

Marten  Shelf  Set 128 

Big  Game  Set 129 

Ring  or  Loop   Fastening 131 


1  •_*  LIST    OK    ILLLSTKATIONS. 

PAGE. 

.  lit   Within   the  Limits  of  Chicago 134 

Wolf  or  Coyote  Trail 136 

Wolf  or  Coyote  on  the  Run 136 

Muskrat  Tracks 138 

Mink  and  Opossum  Tracks 139 

Wi-consin  Trapper  —  Kncnvs  Where  to   Set 141 

Profitable  Day's   Catch 144 

Snowshoeing  Over  the  Trap;  IP.^,   Lin: 145 

Once  Over  the  Line  —  \Vhitc  \Yeasel 147 

Caught  Just  Before  a  Cold  Snap 149 

Bait   Stealer  —  Bird    153 

Northern  Trapper  With  Pack  Basket 156 

Some   Northern   Furs 157 

Nebraska  Trapper's   One  Night   Catch 161 

Night's   Catch  by  Colorado   Trapper 163 

Both  Trappers  —  Father   and   Daughter 166 

Part  of  Connecticut  Trapper's  Catch 171 

Eastern  Trapper's  Catch 175 

Caught  Where  Scent  Is  Much  Used 179 

Young  Trappers  Discussing  Scent 182 

Teaching  The  Boy  Art  Of  Trapping 184 

Trapper's  Home   In   Colorado 188 

A  Few  Days'  Catch 192 

The  Inside  Of  Northern  Trapper's   Cabin...  195 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS.  13 

PAGE. 

Coyote  Trapping  on  the  Cattle  Ranches 202 

Eastern   Mink  —  November   Caught 205 

Muskrat  House    207 

Wolf  Caught  at  "Bank  Set" 214 

Lynx  Caught  in  Steel  Trap 219 

.Marten  Caught  in  Shelf  Set 221 

Shelf   Set  and   Fastening 223 

Squirrel   Caught  on   Stump 225 

Raccoon    Caught   in   Oneida   Jump. 229 

Red  Fox  Caught  at  Dry  Land   Set 232 

Opossum   Caught   in   No.   1   Newhouse 235 

Black   Skunk  in  No.   H  Victor.  .  r 237 

Baited  and  Caught  at  Cubby  Set 239 

There  To   Stay-in  A  Newhouse 242 

Mountain  Lion  Securely  Caught 24-'] 

Beaver,  Trap   and   Trapper 247 

Large  Otter  Caught  in  No.  :>  Ncwhou.-c 251 

Muskrat  Caught  in  Double  Jaw 255 

A  Morning's  Catch  Of  Rats 260 

The  Black  Water  Marsh 266 

Just  After  the   Season   Opens 270 

Deep  Water  Set  Trap  Fastening 27li 

Skinning  a  Bob  Cat 279 

Single  and  Three  Board  Str-etcher 282 


14  LIST   OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE 

Some  Stretching  Patterns 286 

Dakota  Trapper's  Method 288 

Holder   For   Skinning 289 

Wire  Coon   Method 291 

Wire  and  Twig  Coon  Method 293 

Size  of  Stretching  Boards 299 

Pole   Stretchers    304 

Fleshing  Board    318 

Stretching  Frame    310 

Skin   on   Stretcher 321 

Hoop  Stretcher   32:) 

• 

The  Home  Shanty 328 

A  Line  Shanty. 332 


£%:$**. 


INTRODUCTION. 


^v  O  those  that  have  fol- 
lowed the  setting  of 
Steel  Traps  there  is 
a  fascination  or 
"f  e  v  e  r"  which 
comes  over  them  every  fall  about 
the  time  of  the  first  frosts.  The 
only  remedy  seems  to  be  a  few 
weeks  on  the  trap  line. 

While  some  look  upon  trapping 
as  an  unprofitable  business,  yet  the 
number  is  becoming  rapidly  less, 
for  more  and  more  people  are 
yearly  deriving  pleasure,  profit  and 
health  from  out-door  life  such  as 
trapping,  hunting,  etc.  There  are 
thousands  of  trappers  scattered 
over  America  who  are  reaping  a 
fiarvest  of  fur  each  year  from  their 
Steel  Traps  valued  at  hundreds  of 
dollars  in  addition  to  the  healthful 
sport  they  enjoy. 

In  some  parts  of  Canada  and  the 

17 


18  INTRODUCTION. 

Northwest  a  trapper  in  a  year 
catches  fur  the  value  of  which  to- 
gether with  the  bounty  brings  him 
$1,000.00  to  $2,000.00.  It  is  said  on 
pretty  good  authority  that  a  trap- 
per in  British  Columbia  a  few  years 
ago  caught  upwards  of  $6,000  worth 
of  fur,  principally  marten,  in  one 
season. 

There  are  many  thousands  of 
trappers  scattered  from  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico  to  the  Arctic  Ocean  and 
from  the  Pacific  to  the  Atlantic 
that  make  hundreds  of  dollars  each 
year  with  Steel  Traps. 

There  is  also  a  vast  number  who 
trap  only  a  few  weeks  each  season. 
This  includes  boys  and  farmers 
after  the  busy  season. 

The  actual  number  engaged  in 
trapping  is  not  known.  Neither  is 
the  actual  value  of  the  raw  fur 
catch,  but  it  is  thought  to  exceed 
$10,000,000  yearly.  Is  it  any  won- 
der then  that  so  many  want  to 
know  more  about  Steel  Traps  and 
Trapping? 

Considerable  of  the  information 
herein  in  regard  to  traps,  scent,  de- 


INTRODUCTION.  1 9 

coy,  etc.,  is  gathered  from  old  and 
experienced  trappers  from  all  parts 
of  America  as  well  as  from  the 
great  trap  manufacturers,  Oneida 
Community  Ltd.,  so  that  readers 
can  rely  upon  the  information  im- 
parted in  this  book  as  being  trust- 
worthy. Some  books,  purporting 
to  be  of  value  to  hunters  and  trap- 
pers, are  written  by  men  who  have 
never  followed  a  line  of  traps  or 
been  in  close  touch  with  trappers. 

The  author  of  this  work  has  been' 
engaged  for  many  years  in  trap- 
ping and  collecting  furs  and  has 
come  into  close  contact  with  many 
of  the  leading  trappers  of  the  coun- 
try. 

Steel  Traps  are  far  superior  to 
Snares  or  Deadfalls  from  the  fact 
that  they  can  be  used  for  both  land 
and  water  trapping  while  Snares 
and  Deadfalls  are  adapted  to  Land 
Trapping  only. 

A.  E.  HARDING. 


CHAPTER  I. 

SEWELL   NEWHOUSE. 

>R.  SEWELL  NEWHOUSE,  the 
inventor  of  the  Newhouse  Trap 
grew  up  surrounded  by  the  Iro- 
quois  Indians  of  the  Oneida 
Tribe;  that  tribe  which  alone 
of  all  the  Red  men  cast  in  their 
lot  with  the  Americans  in  our  great  struggle  for 
liberty. 

At  an  early  age  he  learned  the  gunsmith's 
trade.  In  those  days  guns  were  all  made  by 
hand,  and  in  small  shops.  Mr.  Newhouse  soon 
became  very  skillful  both  in  making  and  shoot- 
ing the  rifle.  At  that  time  "Turkey  Shoots" 
were  very  popular,  and  Mr.  Newhouse  was  al- 
ways sure  of  his  bird  at  sixty  to  eighty  rods. 
It  was  a  puzzle  to  many  of  the  old  hands  how 
lie  managed  to  shoot  so  accurately,  even  when 
the  wind  was  blowing  "half  a  gale"  till  it  was 
finally  discovered  that  he  had  fitted  his  rifle 
with  an  adjustable  wind  sight.  This  was  one 
of  his  early  inventions  that  has  now  come  into 
common  use  in  target  shooting. 

The  Indians  were  very  fond  of  shooting  at 
a  mark  both  with  the  rifle  and  the  bow  and  ar* 

21 


22 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


row,  but  they  would  seldom  try  conclusions  with 
"SewelT-  -  as  they  all  called  him  —  for  he  could 
always  out  shoot  them  Avith  the  rifle,  and  very 


MR.    SEWELL   NEWHOUSE. 


few  of  the  tribe  were  as  skillful  as  he  with  the 
bow  and  arrow.  In  wrestling  too,  a  favorite 
game  of  the  day,  Mr.  Newhouse  was  more  than 


SEWELL  NEWHOUSE.  23 

a  match  for  the  best  men  of  his  time  both  white 
and  red. 

Some  time  before  the  year  1840,  Mr.  New- 
house  undertook  the  manufacture  of  traps  and 
so  popular  had  his  traps  become  that  in  1842 
they  were  well  known  to  all  the  tribes  of  the 
state,  so  that  about  this  year,  when  a  large  part 
of  the  Oneidas  moved  to  Green  Bay,  Wisconsin 
Territory,  an  essential  part  of  this  outfit  was  a 
stock  of  Newhouse's  traps.  Thus  their  fame 
spread  to  the  West. 

It  is  related  that  a  delegation  of  chiefs  from 
one  of  the  Algonquin  tribes  of  the  Great  Lake 
region  once  called  at  Mr.  Newhouse's  Shop. 
They  had  used  some  traps  from  a  rival  manufac- 
turer but  were  much  disgusted  with  them  for  in 
the  intense  cold  of  their  country  the  springs 
would  break.  "As  breaks  the  pipe  of  peace  in 
war  time."  They  looked  over  his  stock  of  Traps, 
pressed  down  the  springs  with  their  moccasined 
feet,  grunted  and  shook  their  heads  in  disap- 
proval. Then  Sewell  went  out  to  the  frozen 
creek  nearby,  the  savages  watching  in  silence. 
He  chopped  out  a  huge  piece  of  ice,  and  bringing 
it  to  the  shop  broke  it  into  pieces  which  he 
threw  into  a  large  tub  of  water,  then  setting 
half  a  dozen  of  the  Traps  he  plunged  them  into 
the  water,  and  in  sight  of  the  astonished  and 
pleased  Red  Men  he  sprung  them  all  off. 


24 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


This  severe  test  was  enough  for  the  visitors, 
and  at  his  own  price  Mr.  Xewhouse  sold  them 
his  entire  stock  of  traps.  The  affair  greatly 
pleased  the  neighboring  Oneidas  for  well  they 
knew  when  their  "Sewell"  made  and  tempered 
a  trap  spring  by  his  secret  and  "magical"  pro- 


THE  FIRST  SHOP. 

cess  it  would  stand  up  to  its  work  under  any 
and  all  circumstances. 

Early  in  the  fifties  Mr.  Xewhouse  removed 
from  his  home  at  The  Oneida  Castle  up  the  Val- 
ley to  a  spot  now  known  as  Kenwood.  Here 
close  by  the  bank  of  the  rushing  Oneida  he  es- 
tablished himself  in  a  little  smitlnfy  and  began  to 
make  his  famous  traps  on  a  larger  scale.  He 


SEWELL  NEWHOUSE.  25 

i 

was  soon  after  assisted  by  some  of  the  mechanics 
of  the  Oneida  Association  —  as  the  old  Oneida 
Community  was  then  called — of  which  Mr.  New- 
house  had  become  a  member.  In  a  few  years  it 
became  evident  from  the  increasing  demand  that 
the  business  must  be  enlarged  and  a  small  fac-- 
tory  was  built  for  the  purpose. 

Still  the  demand  continued  to  increase  as  the 
Community  began  to  send  out  an  agent  to  solicit 
orders  in  the  West.  The  great  Hudson  Bay 
Company  sent  in  some  large  orders  a  custom  by 
the  way,  which  they  have  continued  annually 
from  that  early  time  until  the  present  day. 

More  shops  were  erected,  water  power  and 
special  machinery  were  introduced  but  still  the 
demand  outgrew  the  supply,  till  finally  the  Com- 
munity was  obliged  to  build  on  a  much  larger 
scale  at  the  present  site  of  its  factory,  where 
the  waters  of  Sconondoa  Creek  furnished  for  a 
long  time  ample  power  for  the  business. 

Here  Mr.  Newhouse  for  many  years  after  he 
ceased  to  work  at  the  bench  and  forge,  spent  his 
time  in  perfecting  the  manufacture  and  in  the 
general  oversight  and  inspection  of  the  work. 
With  the  eye  of  a  lynx  he  was  ever  alert  to  see 
that  no  trap  bearing  his  name  went  out  of  the 
factory  except  in  perfect  condition.  Here  be- 
fore he  left  this  world  for  his  long,  long  rest  he 
carefully  educated  and  trained  a  number  of  men 


26  STEEL  TRAPS. 

to  continue  the  business  with  the  same  pains- 
taking1  spirit  he  had  so  long  maintained. 

The  Trap  illustrated  here  is  one  of  the  earli- 
est made  by  S.  Newhouse  after  the  business  was* 
established  in  the  Oneida  Community  Shops 
about  the  vear  1853. 


OLD    NEWHOUSE  TRAP. 

Every  piece  was  hand  forged  from  wrought 
iron  or  steel.  It  was  roughly  but  strongly  made 
and  has  endured  for  over  half  a  century.  This 
trap  belonged  to  one  of  the  pioneers  of  Wiscon- 
sin who  had  used  it  for  many  years.  It  is  still 
in  good  working  order,  the  spring  being  as  lively 
as  on  the  day  Mr.  Xewhouse  so  carefully  and 
skillfully  forged  and  tempered  it. 


CHAPTER  II. 


WELL  MADE  TRAPS. 

MONG  the  first  requisites  and 
of  the  utmost  importance  to 
successful  trapping  is  the 
possession  of  an  outfit  of 
well  made  Steel  Traps. 

That  the  young  trappers 
may    understand    what    are 

the  requisites  of  a  good  trap  we  will  describe  in 
detail  one  that  has  held  its  own  in  the  estimation 
of  the  professional  trappers  for  sixty  years,  and 
then  we  will  endeavor  to  point  out  wherein  the 
many  so-called  "improvements,"  that  have  been 
put  on  the  market,  have  uniformly  failed  of  suc- 
cess. 

What  the  main  spring  is  to  a  watch,  a  trap 
spring  is  to  a  trap,  and  unless  the  spring  is  made 
of  a  properly  compounded  stool  and  is  of  the 
right  form  and  proportion  and  correctly  tem- 
pered it  will  surely  fail  and  make  the  whole  trap 
worse  than  useless. 

Certain  mixtures  of  pig  iron  aro  nsod  in 
making  spring  steel  and  if  these  mixtures  aro 
varied  from  in  any  particular  or  if  the  stool  has 
a  surplus  of  carbon,  or  is  deficient  in  that  ele- 

27 


28 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


ment,  it  will  not  take  a  proper,  temper  and  con- 
sequently is  of  no  value.  A  proper  manipulation 
in  the  rolling  mill  is  also  necessary,  or  the  steel 
may  be  entirely  ruined  in  rolling. 

A  good  spring  when  set  should  show  a  nearly 
uniform  curve  throughout.  This  indicates  that 
it  is  properly  tapered  so  as  to  bring  a  uniform 
strain  on  the  steel.  The  lasting  qualities  of  a 


A    WELL    MADE    TRAP. 


spring  are  greatly  dependent  on  the  correctness 
of  this  point. 

The  "bows"  or  holes  in  the  spring  must  be 
of  a  proportion  to  properly  fit  the  jaws  and  have 
such  a  "twist"  as  will  allow  them  to  lie  flat  when 
set,  and  the  temper  must  be  so  moderated  as  not 
to  be  brittle  or  "high",  otherwise  they  may  break 
if  sprung  without  anything  between  the  jaws. 
For  it  is  well  known  that  it  is  a  much  harder 
strain  on  any  trap  to  be  sprung  thus  than  to  snap 
on  to  the  le^  of  an  animal. 


\VKLL  MADE  TRAPS.  29 

Another  very  important  tiling  is  to  have  the 
strength  of  the  spring  proportioned  to  the  size  of 
the  trap,  for  an  excessively  stilt'  spring  is  more 
apt  to  break  the  leg  bone  of  the  animal  and  in- 
crease the  liability  of  "legging"  as  the  trappers 
call  it,  Avhile  a  very  weak  spring  may  allow  a 
vigorous  animal  to  draw  its  foot  out,  especially 
if  caught  low  down. 

And  last  but  more  important  than  anything 
else,  the  spring  must  have  just  the  right  temper, 
for  a  bad  tempered  trap  spring  is  like  a  bad  tem- 
pered wife,  a  worse  than  useless  incumbrance. 
And  do  not  let  the  tyro  imagine  that  it  is  easy 
to  temper  a  trap  spring,  for  it  requires  a  long 
experience  and  very  expensive  and  carefully 
studied  conditions  and  apparatus  to  produce 
anything  like  uniform  results. 

Few  persons  realize  the  unusually  trying 
conditions  under  which  a  trap  spring  has  to  do 
its  work,  and  it  is  safe  to  say  that  no  mechanical 
contrivance  performs  its  functions  with  greater 
precision  than  a  well  made  and  tempered  trap 
spring. 

A  No.  1  spring  weighs  less  than  three  ounces 
and  will  exert  a  force  of  between  70  and  80  Ibs., 
and  one  of  these  has  been  known  to  remain  un- 
der strain  for  over  thirty  years  and  then  spring 
as  promptly  as  though  just  set. 

The  jaw  of  a  trap  should  have  a  good  wide 


30  STEEL  TRAPS. 

bearing  surface,  otherwise  it  will  be  apt  to  break 
the  animaFs  leg  bone,  a  calamity  always  to  be 
avoided,  especially  in  dry  land  trapping,  for  as 
before  remarked  "legging"  is  thus  likely  to  fol- 
low. Anything  like  a  sharp  cutting  edge  or  a 
saw  tooth  is  especially  objectionable,  for  our  ob- 
ject in  catching  an  animal  is  to  obtain  its  fur 
and  not  to  amputate  its  limbs.  As  a  prevention 
of  "legging"  the  Nos.  81,  91,  91^  traps,  described 
elsewThere,  are  especially  designed.  The  pintle 
or  end  bearings  of  the  jaws  should  fit  loosely  in 
the  holes  to  allow  for  rusting  and  a  little  freez- 
ing, and  there  should  also  be  a  slight  end  play 
for  the  same  reason. 

The  weight  and  strength  of  a  jaw  should  be 
sufficient  to  prevent  it  from  being  sprung  or  bent 
enough  to  throw  it  out  of  its  bearing  when  it  is 
set  or  when  sprung  by  the  animal. 

Much  diversity  of  opinion  obtains  regarding 
the  proportionate  size  of  the  pan  or  treadle. 
Some  trappers  like  a  large  pan  similar  to  that 
used  in  the  Jump  trap,  but  it  is  safe  to  say  that 
the  greater  majority,  especially  among  the  old 
and  experienced  trappers,  prefer  the  smaller 
sizes,  and  for  obvious  reasons.  When  an  animal 
steps  on  a  small  pan  he  is  caught  to  stay,  but 
with  a  large  one  he  may  be  "nipped"  or  his  foot 
may  be  thrown  out  altogether.  At  any  rate  his 
education  has  been  immenselv  advanced  and  it 


WELL  MADE  TRAPS.  31 

will  take  a  trapper  with  a  "long  head"  to  get 
him  into  a  trap  next  time. 

The  pan  should  fit  loosely  in  its  bearing  for 
as  is  well  known,  rusting  increases  the  size  of  a 
piece  of  iron  and  as  there  are  four  surfaces  to 
rust  in  a  pan  bearing,  ample  room  must  be  left. 

This    trap    was 
made    about    1875  ^^HH^,  Surely 

and  ^  no    part  ^had  a  good 

Newhouse. 


pressure. 


LIMB    GROWING    THRU    JAWS. 

The  dog  or  latch  should  be  thick  and  narrow 
rather  than  wide,  as  presenting  less  surface  for 
the  animal  to  step  on.  It  should  be  curved  and 
pointed  in  such  a  way  as  to  hold  up  the  pan  but 
so  as  to  "go  off"  "easy"  or  "hard"  in  proportion 
to  the  size  of  the  animal  trapped  for.  This  is  a 
nice  point  for  each  trapper  to  decide  for  him- 
self and  it  is  this  susceptibility  to  adjustment 


32  STKKL  TRAPS. 

by  curving  or  straightening  the  dog  that  makes 
this  old  "trigger  arrangement"  superior  to  any 
other  that  lias  been  invented.  .Of  course,  the 
cross  and  bottom  pieces  must  be  made  in  propor- 
tion to  the  other  parts  of  the  trap  and  the  ex- 
perienced trapper  or  inspector  knows  how  f 3  so 
bend  them  as  to  make  them  conform  correctly 
therewith. 

The  chain  should  be  strong  enough  to  hold 
any  animal  for  which  the  trap  is  designed. 

It  goes  without  saying  that  a  good  swivel  is 
indispensable,  as  well  as  a  reliable  ring  and 
wedge  for  fastening,  and  the  "S"  Hook  some- 
times furnished  will  be  found  very  convenient  as 
a  means  for  attaching  the  trap  to  a  drag. 


CHAPTER  III. 

A  FEW  FAILURES. 

'E  present  herewith  a  few  pho- 
tos taken  from  a  collection  of 
experimental  traps  and  will 
endeavor  to  point  out  wherein 
these  failed  to  prove  them- 
selves of  practical  value. 

This  trap  was  sometimes 
called  the  "Bob  Tail"  on  account  of  its  lack  of  a 
dog,  and  this  feature  was  thought  to  be  a  valu- 
able one  as  there  was  nothing  to  throw  the  ani- 


"BOB    TAIL"    TRAP 

mars  foot  out,  but  it  Avas  found  to  be  deficient 
in  that  it  was  not  sensitive  enough  and  it  lacked 
any  adjustability  in  its  setting  device. 

This  model  was  put  on  the  market  and  sold 
for  some  time  and  seemed  to  be  a  very  good 

3  33 


34 


STEEL  TRAPS, 


trap.    It  was  discovered,  however,  that  the  bear- 
ing of  the  pan  was  too  low  down  for  a  delicate 


DEFECTIVE    PAN    BEARING. 


set  and  also  sometimes  caused  trouble  by  freez- 
ing in  mud. 

This  trap  was  at  one  time  thought  to  be  good 
and  was  tried  by  many  trappers.     It  was  found. 


THE    ALL     STEEL. 


however,  to  be  very  faulty  in  many  respects.  The 
bearing  of  the  pan  lay  flat  in  the  mud  and  would 
freeze.  The  setting  device  lacked  any  kind  of 


A  FEW  FAILURES. 


35 


adjustability  and  might  either  go  off  so  hard  that 
nothing  could  spring  it  or  so  easily  that  it  would 
not  stay  set  at  all.  The  jaws  which  were  made 
of  thin  sheet  steel  were  not  durable. 

In  this  trap  the  method  of  attaching  the  pan 
was  changed  and  the  jaws  were  rendered  more 


Till:  MODIFIED   ALL   STEEL. 

durable,  but  as  the  holding  edges  were  made 
much  thinner  they  were  more  liable  to  cut  the 
animal's  legs  and  on  the  whole  the  trap  was  not 
improved. 

This  trap  was  invented  to  do  away  with  the 


POOR    SETTING    DEVICE. 


36  STEEL  TRAPS. 

throwing  out  motion  of  the  dog.  It  accomplished 
if,  however,  at  such  a  sacrifice  of  other  valuable 
features  as  to  render  it  a  useless  invention.  Its 
pan  like  others  mentioned  was  liable  to  freeze  up 
and  it  also  lacked  in  easy  adjustability  and  sensi- 
tiveness. Few  of  them  were  sold  as  they  did  not 
meet  the  approval  of  trappers  of  experience. 

A  Double  Jaw  Trap  was  made  without  a  dog 
as  shown  by  the  setting  device,  although  inge- 


DOCBLE  JAW   WITHOUT    DOG. 


iiious  in  construction,  was  not  sensitive.  The 
holding  power  of  the  double  jaw  was  good,  es- 
pecialy  in  a  dry  land  set,  as  all  know  who  have 
tried  the  Xewhouse  Xo.  91  or  91-J. 

This  trap  was  designed  by  a  man  who  thought 
it  desirable  to  fasten  the  bait  to  the  pan.  Only 
a  novice  at  i rapping  would  think  of  doing  such 
a  thing  as  that,  as  drawing  the  animal's  atten- 
tion to  the  trap  is  sure  to  excite  his  suspicion 
ar.d  to  catch  him  by  the  head  is  not  desirable, 
even  if  possible.  A  common  trap  is  quite  certain 


A  FEW  FAILURES.  37 

to  only  nip  him  and  slip  off.     The  trap  as  will 
be  seen  could  be  used  also  like  a  common  one, 


THE  DUPLEX. 

but  presented  a  very  awkward  appearance.  A 
few  experienced  trappers  gave  it  a  trial  but  none 
of  them  seemed  to  favor  it. 

This   style   was   never   put   on   the   market. 
There  have  been   invented   quite  a   number  of 


THE    "NO    CROSS" 


traps  that  have  no  cross  piece  but  we  do  no+ 
know  that  any  of  them  have  been  sold. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

fcOME  EUROPEAN  TRAPS* 

German  Fo.r  Trap. 

HE  cut  below  represents  a  Ger- 
man Trap,  as  made  at  the  pre- 
sent time,  and  there  are  several 
German  makers  of  similar  traps. 
They  are  mostly  hand  made  and 
vary  slightly  in  style  of  construction  from  one 
another.     The  sizes  cover  all  the  different  fur- 


GERMAN    FOX    TRAP. 

bearing  animals,  but  the  traps  are  clumsily 
made  and  much  more  expensive  than  those  of 
American  Manufacture. 

38 


SOME  EUROPEAN  TRAPS. 


39 


It  will  be  observed  that  the  Pan  is  very  large, 
in  fact,  it  so  nearly  fills  the  space  between  the 
jaws,  that  there  is  qnite  a  good  chance  that  an 
animal  would  be  thrown  clear  of  the  jaws  when 
springing  it.  The  setting  devise  has  no  delicacy 
of  adjustment  and  the  fulcrum  of  the  pan  is  so 
low  down  it  would  be  very  likely  to  freeze  solid 
in  the  mud. 

These  traps  are  all  provided  with  many  large 
sharp  teeth,  and  if  the  animal  is  caught  high 
up  they  may  do  great  injury  to  a  valuable  pelt. 

English  Rabbit  Trap. 

This  remarkably  clumsy  looking  concern  is 
made  in  England  and  is  used  mostly  in  Austra- 
lia and  New  Zealand  for  catching  rabbits,  which 
have  become  such  a  pest  in  those  far  away  "Is- 
lands of  the  Sea." 


ENGLISH- RABBIT   TRAP. 


40  STEEL  TRAPS. 

The  Australian  rabbit  trappers  are  mostly  of 
English  descent  and  like  their  forefathers  are 
very  conservative  in  their  ideas,  so  in  spite  of 
its  many  defects,  they  stick  to  the  use  of  this 
antiquated  machine. 

Notice  the  size  of  the  pan  almost  filling  the 
opening  in  the  jaw,  width  of  the  dog  both  tend- 
ing to  throw  out  the  animal's  foot.  The  sharp 
toothed  jaws  with  thin  cutting  edges  so  apt  to 
break  the  bone  and  help  the  rabbit  to  free  itselfs 

Note  also  the  short  half  spring  which  the 
trappers  say  will  not  endure  more  than  one  or 
two  years  use  and  which  is  stationary  and  sets 
high  up,  thus  making  it  hard  to  conceal. 

That  there  is  need  of  something  better  than 
this  to  keep  down  these  pests,  may  be  believed, 
for  it  is  stated  that  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  over 
two  million  dollars  worth  of  their  pelts  and  flesh 
are  shipped  to  Europe  annually,  they  are  still 
on  the  increase. 

They  have  lately  made  their  appearance  in 
regions  hitherto  free  from  them.  Owing  to  the 
enormous  fecundity,  they  soon  take  nearly  com- 
plete possession  of  a  place  as  it  is  calculated 
that  one  pair  may  increase  to  about  two  million 
in  a  couple  of  years.  Until  the  trappers  adopt 
some  more  efficient  trap  it  is  difficult  to  see  how 
they  are  to  make  much  headway  against  this 
scourge  of  the  land. 


CHAPTER  V. 

PROPER   SIZES. 

KAPPBBS  have  done 
much,  by  pushing  into 
the  wilderness  after  fur- 
bearing  animals  and 
game,  to  advance  civi- 
lization. Had  the  slower 
pursuits  of  logging, 
farming,  etc.,  been  depended  upon  the  United 
States  and  Canada  today  would  not  be  nearly  so 
far  advanced  as  they  are.  While  in  sections, 
the  larger  game  is  gone  yet  there  is  in  parts  of 
the  North,  West  and  South,  much  good  trapping 
territory  that  will  pay  the  hardy  trapper  for 
years  to  come.  Even  in  the  more  thickly  settled 
districts,  trapping  can  be  made  a  good  paying 
business  if  the  correct  sizes  are  used  and  trap- 
pers pay  attention  to  the  proper  season  to  trap. 
It  seems  that  red  fox,  skunk  and  muskrat 
remain  about  as  numerous  in  most  sections  as 
ever.  In  fact,  the  red  fox  in  certain  sections 
has  only  made  its  appearance  of  late  years  — 
since  the  country  has  become  more  thickly 
settled.  Trappers  in  rftost  sections  can  rest  as- 
sured that  they  will  have  game  to  trap  for  years 
to  come. 

41 


42 


STKKL  TRAPS. 


In  the  rapid  development  of  the  country 
steel  traps  have  played  a  wonderful  part.  They 
have  subdued  the  monster  bear  and  have  caught 
millions  of  the  small  fur-bearing  animals,  add- 
ing largely  to  the  annual  income  of  the  trapper. 


AWAITING  THE  TRAPPER. 

Steel  traps  have  been  in  use  for  more  than  one 
hundred  years  but  for  many  years  after  invented 
they  were  so  expensive  that  they  were  not  gen- 
erally used. 

Of  late  years  they  have  become  cheaper,  ow- 
ing to  the  increased  facilities  of  those  great  trap 


PUOPER  SIZES.  43 

manufacturers,  the  Oneida  Community,  who 
are  always  looking  to  trappers'  interest  by  add- 
ing new  and  improved  methods  of  manufacture 
as  well  as  new  traps  to  the  extensive  line  already 
manufactured  so  that  now  their  use  has  become 
general;  in  fact,  the  price  is  now  so  reasonable 
that  the  trapper,  on  his  first  expedition,  can  have 
a  full  supply.  The  professional  trapper,  who  in 
the  Xorth,  spends  from  seven  to  nine  months 
in  the  woods  has  a  supply  of  these  traps,  rang- 
ing from  the  smallest  to  the  largest.  His  needs 
are  such  too  that  all  of  them  are  in  use  during 
the  trapping  season.  A  trapper  can  use  from 
50  to  250  traps. 

Trappers,  as  a  rule,  know  what  game  they 
are  going  to  trap  and  consequently  the  number 
of  each  kind  or  size  required.  If  he  is  after 
bear,  otter  or  beaver,  etc.,  he  can  not  use  and 
tend  as  many  as  if  he  were  trapping  smaller 
game,  such  as  skunk,  mink,  opossum,  raccoon 
and  muskrat. 

Traps  are  made  in  various  sizes.  The  small- 
est, No.  0,  is  used  for  catching  rats  principally, 
while  the  largest,  No.  6,  is  for  the  grizzly  bear. 
Other  sizes  and  the  game  to  which  they  are 
adapted  are  :No.  1>  known  as  the  muskrat  trap, 
but  will  hold  mink,  skunk,  marten,  etc.  The 
jaws  spread  4  inches.  No.  81,  size  of  No.  1  with 
web  jaws  for  muskrat,  mink  and  skunk.  No. 


44  STEEL  TRAPS. 

91,  size  No.  1  with  double  jaws  for  muskrat  and 
skunk.  No.  1|  mink  rat,  but  will  hold  stronger 
game.  The  jaws  spread  4|  inches.  No.  91£, 
size  of  No.  1£  with  double  jaws  for  mink  and 
skunk.  No.  2  fox  trap,  also  used  for  coon.  No. 
2-J  otter  with  teeth ;  No.  244-  same  as  No.  2£.  with- 
out teeth;  No.  3  for  otter  and  coyote;  No.  3^ 
extra  large  single  spring  otter  with  teeth;  No. 
31J  same  as  No.  3  J  without  teeth ;  No.  23  otter 
with  clutch;  No.  4  wolf  and  beaver;  No.  14 
beavers  with  offset  jaw  and  teeth ;  No.  24  beaves 
with  clutch;  No.  4^  timber  wolves  and  moun- 
tain lion ;  No.  50  small  bear ;  No.  150  small  bear 
witB^l^j^afsr ;  No.  5  black  bear;  No.  6  grizzly 
bear.  These  are  the  well  known  Newhouse 
brand  being  by  far  the  best  trap  made.  This 
brand  is  put  out  in  twenty-five  different  sizes. 

The  weight  per  dozen  of  Newhouse  traps 
given  below  will  give  a  better  idea  of  the  rela- 
tive sizes  of  these  traps :  No.  0  weighs  6J  pounds; 
No.  1,  9J  pounds;  No.  H,  13  pounds;  No.  2,  17 
pounds ;  No.  3,  23  pounds ;  No.  4,  33  pounds ;  No. 
2£,  23f  pounds ;  No.  4£,  98  pounds ;  No.  50,  132 
pounds;  No.  5,  135  pounds;  No.  6,  504  pounds. 
A  single  trap  of  the  No.  6  weighs  42  pounds 
and  it  can  be  readily  seen  that  they  are  very 
strong. 

The  Newhouse  is  the  strongest  trap  made 
and  in  fact  the  best  for  all  fur-bearing  animals. 


45 


46  STEEL  TRAPS. 

A  No.  1  Newhouse  is  equal  in  holding  power  to  a 
No.  1}  of  other  brands. 

The  following  letters,  from  trappers  of  ex- 
perience will  be  found  of  interest  as  bearing  on 
the  subject  of  proper  sizes : 

"In  buying  your  traps,  do  not  get  too  large 
a  trap  for  the  animal  YOU  wish  to  catch.  I  know 
an  old  trapper  that  has  trapped  for  forty  years 
and  all  he  uses  for  muskrat  is  a  No.  0  Newhouse 
trap." 

"A  rat  does  not  gnaw  the  foot  off  as  many 
trappers  will  tell  you,  but  the  forefoot  is  very 
tender  and  as  a  rat  always  struggles  very  hard 
when  caught,  it  does  not  take  very  long  to  twist 
the  foot  off  if  the  trap  is  not  set  so  the  rat 
will  drown.  Different  trappers  have  different 
ways  of  fastening  the  traps  when  trapping  for 
rats/7 

"I  use  a  No.  1  Newhouse  trap  for  mink  and 
a  No.  1|  for  skunk.  I  notice  that  the  Newhouse 
people  have  a  new  trap  called  the  "Webbed  Jaw 
Trap".  I  think  this  an  excellent  trap  to  use  in 
very  cold  weather." 

"Yes,  these  otter  traps  are  quite  heavy,  No. 
3^  Newhouse,  but  are  sure  to  hold/'  writes  a 
NCAV  England  trapper  who  is  being  accompanied 
by  a  young  trapper.  "You  asked  me  what  the 
raise  plate  was  for;  it  is  for  the  otter  to  hit  as 
he  passes  over,  as  you  see  he  is  very  short  legged, 


PROPER  SIZES.  47 

and  the  plate  sets  higher  than  the  teeth  on  jaws 
of  trap,  and  it  will  answer  other  purposes,  as 
YOU  will  see  when  you  set  them.  These  otter 
and  bear  traps  are  allright  and  the  animal  that 
steps  on  the  pan  will  stay  or  leave  a  foot.  We 
have  9  otter  and  4  bear  traps.  Let  us  look  at 
fox  traps.  We  have  25  "jumpers",  No.  2^;  these 
are  right  for  dry  sets.  Here  are  25  No.  3  New- 
house  for  water  sets.  No.  2  Newhouse  is  just 
right  for  coon  and  fisher." 

Trappers  in  stating  the  size  traps  that  they 
use  for  a  certain  animal  show  quite  a  difference. 
Some  use  a  No.  1  Newhouse  for  coon  while 
others  use  the  No.  2  and  as  this  is  a  double 
spring,  the  holding  power  is  fully  three  times 
as  much  as  the  No.  I. 

In  the  Northern  states  where  the  coon  grows 
much  larger  than  in  the  South  and  Southwest, 
the  No.  2  Newhouse  is  the  trap.  In  the  South 
the  No.  li  Newhouse  is  a  good  mink  trap  as  is 
also  the  No.  1}  Victor  and  No.  2  Oueidn  Jump. 

The  proper  size  trap  to  use  for  a  certain  ani- 
mal, varies  under  different  conditions.  If  the 
trapper  is  reasonably  certain  that  no  other  spe- 
cies of  animal  than  the  one  trapped  for  frequents 
the  place  then  the  best  size  for  the  animal  be- 
ing set  for  is  the  trap  to  use. 

On  the  other  hand,  should  the  trapper  have 
out  some  traps  for  skunk,  which  need  not  be 


48 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


larger  than  No.  1  of  the  best  or  Newhouse  va- 
riety, and  any  of  the  dens  are  visited  by  fox  a 
larger  trap  should  be  used.  If  trapping  for  rats, 
and  you  come  to  "rat  signs"  and  also  where 


MINK,    TRAPPED   UNDER   AN   OLD    ROOT. 

there   are   coon   and    mink   signs,   a   trap   large 
enough  to  hold  cither  should  be  set. 

If  blind  or  trail  sets  are  made,  it  is  well  to 
have  the  trap  sufficiently  strong  for  the  largest 


PROPER  SIZES.  49 

animal  using  it.  Often  different  animals  use  the 
same  trail  or  path  leading  from  one  den  to  an- 
other or  to  a  log  across  a  stream,  etc. 

Elsewhere  a  complete  description  of  the  var- 
ious makes  and  sizes  of  traps  to  use  is  given  and 
also  full  instructions  about  setting,  fastening, 
etc.  This  embraces  the  view  of  the  manufac- 
ture, the  trapper  and  of  the  author  who  has 
had  years  of  experience  and  should  be  of  great 
value  to  inexperienced  users  of  Steel  Traps. 


CHAPTEK  VI. 

NEWHOUSE  TRAPS. 

N  or  about  1823  the  first  Newhouse 
traps  were  made.  At  that  early 
date  only  a  few  of  the  smaller 
sizes  were  manufactured  but 
these  have  been  added  to  until 
now  the  famous  Newhouse  trap 
is  manufactured  in  twenty-five 
different  sizes.  The  smallest,  No.  0,  for  rats 
and  the  largest,  No.  6,  for  grizzly  bear.  These 
with  the  various  intermediate  sizes  are  adapted 
to  catching  all  varieties  of  the  fur-bearing  and 
game  animals  of  the  world.  In  fact,  it  is  said 
that  the  No.  6  will  hold  any  living  animal  ex- 
cepting the  elephant. 

Under  this  heading  the  various  makes  of  this 
trap  are  described;  excepting  the  Double  and 
Webbed  Jaw,  which  are  described  in  another 
chapter. 

Considerable  of  the  description  as  given  here 
is  from  the  trap  catalog  of  the  Oneida  Commu- 
nity, Oneida,  N.  Y.,  manufacturers  of  the  New- 
house  trap.  For  we  believe  that  inasmuch  as 
they  have  for  more  than  half  a  century  manu- 
factured traps  (during  which  time  they  have 
kept  up  a  large  correspondence  with  trappers 

50 


NEWHOUSK  TRAPS. 


51 


in  all  parts  of  North  America)    much  weight 
should  be  given  their  views. 

This,  the  No.  0,   is  the  smallest  size  made. 
Spread  of  Jaws,  34  inches.     It  is  used  largely 


NO.    0,    NEWHOUSE    TRAP. 


for  catching  gophers  and  house  rats.  It  has  a 
sharp  grip  and  will  hold  larger  game,  but  should 
not  be  overtaxed. 

This,  the  No.  1,  has  a  spread  of  jaws  of  4 
inches.  This  trap  is  used  for  catching  musk- 
rat  and  other  small  animals  and  sold  in  greater 


NO.    1,    NEWHOUSE    TRAP. 


52 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


numbers  than  any  other  size.  Its  use  is  well 
understood  by  professional  trappers  and  it  is 
the  most  serviceable  size  for  catching  skunks, 
weasels,  rats  and  such  other  animals  as  visit 
poultry  houses  and  barns. 

This  trap  is  one  that  can  be  used  to  good 
advantage  for  other  small  fur-bearing  animals. 
Trappers  use  large  numbers  of  this  size  for 
muskrat,  mink,  opossum,  civet  and  marten. 
Fox,  coon,  lynx  and  wild  cat  are  often  caught 
in  this  trap  but  we  do  not  advise  its  use  for 
these  large  animals. 

This  trap,  No.  1-J,  has  a  spread  of  jaws  of 
4|  inches.  This  size  is  called  the  "Mink  Trap" 


NO.  H,    OR   MINK  TRAP. 


but  it  is,  however,  suitable  for  catching  wood- 
chucks,   skunks,    coon,   etc.     Professional   trap- 


NEWHOUSE  TRAPS.  53 

pers  often  use  it  for  catching  foxes.  It  is  very 
convenient  in  form  and  is  strong  and  reliable. 

In  some  states  where  skunks  grow  very  large, 
such  as  in  parts  of  Nebraska,  Iowa,  Wisconsin, 
Minnesota  and  the  Dakotas,  as  well  as  other 
Northwestern  sections  this  trap  is  much  used. 

One  advantage  in  using  a  trap  of  this  size 
for  mink  is  that  they  are  caught  high  up  and 
if  by  one  of  the  front  legs  they  are  pretty  sure 
to  be  dead  before  the  arrival  of  the  trapper. 
If  used  for  mink  at  a  water  set,  the  animal  gen- 
erally soon  drowns. 

This  trap,  the  No.  2,  has  a  spread  of  jaws 
of  4J  inches,  being  the  same  as  No.  1^,  but  hav- 


NO.    2,    OR    FOX    TRAP. 


ing  two  springs,  it  is,  of  course,  much  stronger. 
This  size  is  commonly  known  as  the  "Fox  Trap/' 
This  trap  is  often  used  for  taking  badger,  fisher 
and  coyote. 


54  STEEL  TRAPS. 

Trappers  sometimes  remove  one  spring  and 
use  it  for  large  coon,  woodchuck  and  even  for 
fox  as  some  think  with  two  springs  the  trap  is 
too  strong. 

This,  the  No.  3,  has  a  spread  of  jaws  of  5^ 
inches.  It  is  designated  as  the  "Otter  Trap." 


NO.    3,    OR    OTTER    TRAP. 

It  is  a  very  powerful  trap  and  will  hold  almost 
any  game  smaller  than  a  bear. 

This  trap  is  used  for  taking  beaver  and  also 
to  some  extent  for  small  wolves  and  coyotes. 

This,  the  No.  4,  has  a  spread  of  jaws  of  6^ 
inches.  This  is  the  regular  form  of  Wolf  Trap. 
It  is  longer  than  the  No.  3  and  has  one  inch 
greater  spread  of  jaws.  It  is  a  favorite  with 
those  who  trap  and  hunt  for  a  living  in  the 
Northwest  and  Canada.  It  is  extensively  used 


NEWHOUSE  TRAPS. 


55 


for  trapping  the  wolves  and  coyotes  in  the  west- 
ern stock  raising  regions. 


NO.   4,    OR   WOLF   TRAP. 


This,  the  No.  2£,  has  a  spread  of  jaws  of 
6J  inches.  This  is  a  single  spring  trap  as 
shown.  In  some  localities  the  otter  grows  to 
an  unusual  size,  with  great  proportional 


NO.  2*,  OR  OTTER  TRAP  WITH  TEETH. 


56 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


strength,  so  that  the  manufacturers  have  been 
led  to  produce  an  especially  large  and  strong 
pattern.  The  parts  are  heavier  than  the  No. 
3,  the  spread  of  jaws  is  greater  and  the  spring 
stiffer. 

The  jaws  are  equipped  with  teeth  to  keep 
the  otter  from  getting  free  when  once  caught. 
The  pan  is  also  furnished  with  a  raised  plate 
which  can  be  taken  off  if  desired. 

This,  the  No.  3|,  has  a  spread  of  jaws  of 
5  inches.  This  trap  is  for  otter,  but  is  used 
more  especially  for  catching  them  on  their 


NO.  3|,  OR  EXTRA  STRONG  OTTER  TRAP. 

"slides."  For  this  purpose  a  thin  raised  plate 
of  steel  is  adjusted  to  the  pan  so  that  when 
the  trap  is  set  the  plate  will  be  a  trifle  higher 
than  the  teeth  on  the  jaws.  The  spring  is  very 
powerful,  being  the  same  as  used  on  the  No.  4 
Newhouse  Trap.  If  desired,  the  raised  plate 
can  be  detached,  making  the  trap  one  of  gen- 
eral utility. 


NEWHOUSE  TRAPS.  57 

Single  Spring  No.  21-J-  lias  a  spread  of  jaws 
of  5J  inches.     This  trap  is  the  same  as  No.  2| 


NO.   21i,    WITHOUT   TEETH. 


but  is  without  teeth  or  Raised  Plate  as  some 
trappers  prefer  it  in  this  style. 

No.  31^  Newhouse  Trap  is  also  a  single 
spring  being  same  as  No.  3^  but  without  Teeth 
or  Raised  Plate.  Spread  of  jaws  6J  inches. 

These  traps,  Nos.  21|  and  31 1,  are  the  largest 
smooth  jaw,  single  spring  sizes  that  are  made. 
Professional  trappers  will  find  them  especially 
valuable  when  on  a  long  trapping  line,  as  they 
are  more  compact  and  easier  to  secrete  than 
double  spring  traps.  The  springs  on  these  traps 
are  made  extra  heavy. 

The  No.  2H  is  practically  a  single  spring 
No.  3  and  the  No.  31^  a  single  spring  No.  4. 


58  STEEL  TRAPS. 

These  traps  are  used  for  such  animals  as  otter, 
beaver,  wolf,  wolverine,  fisher  and  have  been 
known  to  catch  and  hold  Mountain  Lion. 

This  trap  is  known  as  No.  14  and  has  a 
spread  of  jaws  of  6|  inches.  This  trap  is  the 
same  in  size  as  No.  4  Wolf  but  has  heavier  and 


OFFSET  JAW  BEAVER  TRAP. 

stiff er  springs  and  offset  jaws,  which  allow  the 
springs  to  raise  higher  when  the  animal's  leg 
is  in  the  trap,  and  it  is  furnished  with  teeth 
sufficiently  close  to  prevent  the  animal  from 
pulling  its  foot  out.  The  weight  of  this  style 
is  about  3^  pounds  each. 

This  trap  is  known  as  "Detachable  Clutch 
Trap."  The  trap  can  be  used  with  or  without  it. 
It  is  made  in  two  sizes  Nos.  23  and  24.  No.  23 
known  as  the  "Otter  Clutch"  has  a  spread  of 
jaws  of  Si  inches ;  No.  24  known  as  the  "Beaver 
Clutch"  has  a  spread  of  jaws  of  6-|  inches. 


NEWHOUSE  TRAPS. 


59 


DETACHABLE   CLUTCH  TRAP. 

This  trap  is  known  as  the  No.  4^  or  "New- 
house  Special  Wolf  Trap."  It  was  put  on  the 
market  to  meet  the  demands  of  trappers  for 


NEWHOUSE    SPECIAL    WOLF    TRAP. 

a  new  model  of  the  Newhouse  Trap  especially 
designed  for  capturing  the  largo  timber  wolves 
and  mountain  lions  of  the  stock  raising  sec- 
tions of  the  West. 


60  STEEL  TRAPS. 

This  trap  has  a  spread  of  jaws  of  8  inches. 
It  is  substantially  made  thruout  and  is  provided 
with  a  pronged  "drag,"  a  heavy  snap,  an  extra 
heavy  steel  swivel  and  a  chain,  five  feet  long, 
warranted  to  hold  2,000  pounds.  This  trap 
complete  with  chain  and  "drag"  weighs  about 
9  pounds. 

This  trap  is  known  as  No.  50,  spread  of  jaws 
9  inches.  It  is  intended  for  catching  small  sized 
bears.  In  design  it  is  exactly  like  the  stand- 


SMALL  BEAR  TRAP. 


ard  No.  5  Bear  Trap,  only  that  the  parts  are 
all  somewhat  smaller.  Weight,  11^  pounds 
each.  This  trap  is  also  used  for  catching  Moun- 
tain Lion. 

This  trap  is  known  as  No.  150,  spread  of 
jaws,  9  inches.  It  is  similar  to  No.  50,  ex- 
cepting that  the  jaws  are  offset,  making  a  space 
five-eights  inch  between  them.  This  allows  the 
springs  to  come  up  higher  when  the  bear's  foot 
is  in  the  trap  and  thus  secure  a  better  grip. 
The  chance  of  breaking  the  bones  in  the  foot 
are  also  lessened.  Weight,  11^  pounds  each. 


NEWHOUSE  TRAPS. 


61 


SMALL    BEAR   TRAP   WITH   OFFSET   JAWS. 

This  trap  is  known  as  No.  5  or  Black  Bear. 
The  spread  of  jaws  is  llf  inches.     Weight  of 


STANDARD    BEAR    TRAP. 

trap  19  pounds.  It  is  furnished  with  a  very 
heavy  and  strong  cable  chain. 

Bear  trappers  whether  in  the  Canadian 
Wilds,  the  Swamps  of  the  Southern  States  or 
among  the  Rocky  or  Appalachian  Mountains, 
speak  of  the  No.  5  as  the  Standard  Trap.  They 
are  used  principally  for  catching  the  Black 
Bear. 

This  trap  is  known  as  No.  15,  spread  of  jaws 
llf  inches.  To  meet  the  views  of  certain  trap- 
pers whose  judgment  is  respected,  the  nianu- 


62 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


facturers  designed  a  style  of  jaw  for  the  No.  5 
trap,  making  an  offset  of  f  of  an  inch  so  as  to 


REGULAR    BEAR    TRAP    WITH    OFFSET    JAWS. 

allow  the  springs  to  come  up  higher  when  the 
bear's  leg  is  in  the  trap.  This  gives  the  spring 
a  better  grip.  This  trap  weighs  about  19 
pounds. 

This  is  known  as  the  No.  6  or  Grizzly  Bear 
Trap  and  has  a  spread  of  jaws  of  16  inches. 


GRIZZLY    BEAR    TRAP. 


It   weighs   complete,    42    pounds.     This   is   the 
strongest  trap  made.     The   manufacturers   say 


NEWHOUSE  TRAPS. 


63 


they  have  never  heard  of  anything  getting  out 
of  it  when  once  caught.  It  is  often  called  the 
"Great  Bear  Tamer." 

This  trap  is  also  used  in  Asia  and  Africa 
for  catching  lions  and  tigers.  In  fact  the  trap 
will  hold  any  animal  with  the  exception  of  the 
elephant  and  it  will  hold  even  that  animal  ex- 
cepting possibly  the  larger  ones. 

This  cut  illustrates  Bear  Trap  Chain  Clevis 
and  Bolt,  intended  as  a  substitute  for  the  ring 
on  the  end  of  the  trap  chain,  when  desired. 


BEAR  TRAP  CHAIN  CLEVIS. 

With  this  clevis  a  loop  can  be  made  around 
any  small  log  or  tree  without  the  trouble  of 
cutting  to  fit  the  ring.  The  chain  is  made  five 
feet  long  suitable  for  any  clog  and  the  prices 
of  bear  traps  fitted  with  it  are  the  same  as 
with  the  regular  short  chain  and  ring. 


64 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


There  is  danger  attached  to  setting  the  large 
traps  when  alone  in  addition  to  its  being  rather 
difficult,  especially  in  cold  weather,  when  the 
lingers  are  stiff.  Should  the  trapper  be  in  a 
boat  the  setting  is  still  more  difficult. 

A  clamp  (as  shown)  applied  to  each  spring- 
will,  by  a  few  turns  of  the  thumb-screws,  bend 
the  springs  to  their  places,  so  that  the  pan  may 


STEEL  TRAP  SETTING  CLAMP. 

be  adjusted  without  difficulty.  No.  4  cl^mp  can 
be  used  on  any  trap  smaller  than  No.  4^.  No. 
5  and  6  are  strong  clamps,  carefully  made  and 
especially  adapted  to  setting  the  large  traps  Nos. 
4i,  50,  150,  5,  15  and  6.  They  do  away  with 
the  inconyenience  and  dangerous  use  of  levers. 
With  clamps  a  trapper  can  easily  and  safely  set 
these  powerful  traps.  These  clamps  also  come 
handy  about  the  camp  for  other  purposes. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

DOUBLE  AND  WEB   JAW  TRAPS. 

>O  trapper  should  go  into  the  woods 
without  providing  himself  wTith  an 
outfit  of  traps  to  meet  any  of  the 
varying  emergencies  that  are  likely 
to  arise.  For  instance,  along  a  deep 
stream  it  is  generally  easy  to  arrange 
a  common  trap  so  that  by  drowning  the  animal 
it  will  answer  every  purpose,  but  in  a  very  small 
or  shallow  stream  this  is  sometimes  a  difficult 
thing  to  accomplish.  In  such  a  case  if  the  trapper 
has  provided  himself  with  a  Webbed  or  Double 
Jawed  Trap  his  chances  of  finding  the  game 
awaiting  him  on  his  return  will  be  greatly  in- 
creased. 

For  a  dry  land  set,  especially  on  skunk,  the 
Double  Jaw  will  be  found  very  effective.  The 
fact  that  it  catches  very  high  up  and  also  en- 
tirely prevents  self -amputation  is  greatly  in  its 
favor. 

For  foxes,  which  are  often  taken  by  the  dry 
land  method,  the  Double  Jawed  of  a  size  corre- 
sponding to  the  regular  No.  1J  is  getting  to  be 
a  very  popular  trap. 
5  65 


66  STEEL  TRAPS. 

So,  as  we  said  before,  each  trapper,  tho  re- 
lying mainly  on  the  old  and  well  tried  lines,, 
should  provide  himself  with  a  few  of  these  odd 
styles  and  thus  add  greatly  to  his  versatility  of 
resources,  that  he  may  compete  successfully  with: 
the  ever  increasing  cunning  of  the  many  four- 
footed  fur  bearers  of  stream  and  forest. 

Trappers  for  years  have  contended  that  cer- 
tain animals  would  gnaw  out  of  traps,  especially 
where  the  bone  was  broken  by  the  jaws  and  the 
flesh  had  become  numb*  from  the  pressure  or  from, 
cold. 

It  is  known  that  skunks  especially  will  gnaw 
at  that  portion  of  the  foot  or  leg  below  jaws  of 
trap.  Where  trappers  have  a  long  line  of  traps, 
and  cannot  visit  them  every  day  they  thus  lose 
a  number  of  animals. 

The  Webbed  and  Double  Jaw  prevent  the 
gnawing  out  from  the  fact  that  the  animal  can. 
only  gnaw  to  the  lower  jaw  or  web  and  is  not 
able  to  get  at  the  flesh  between  the  jaws  or  un- 
der the  web. 

Another  animal  that  these  traps  are  especi- 
ally adapted  for  is  the  muskrat.  This  animal's 
legs  especially  the  front  ones,  are  very  tender 
(both  bone  and  flesh).  A  trap  that  breaks  the 
bone,  (unless  the  animal  is  soon  drowned)  may 
escape  by  the  flesh  of  the  leg  twisting  off  in  it& 


DOUBLE  AND  WEB  JAW  TRAPS. 


67 


endeavors  to  get  free.     Muskrats  do  not  gnaw 
off  their  feet  as  some  suppose. 

This,  the  Webbed  Jaw,  known  as  No.  81  has 
spread  of  Jaws  of  four  inches.    This  is  one  of  the 


NO.    81,    OR    WEBBED    JAW    TRAP. 

Newhouse  makes  and  corresponds  in  size  to  the 
regular  No.  1.  Newhouse. 

If  trappers  will  observe  the  cross  section  of 
the  jaws,  as  illustrated  at  the  left,  it  is  plain  the 
animal  can  only  gnaw  off  its  leg  at  a  point  quite 
a  distance  below  the  meeting  edges  of  the  jaws. 
The  flesh  above  the  jaws  as  well  as  below  will 
swell  making  it  impossible  for  the  animal  to  pulJ 
the  leg  stump  out  of  the  trap. 


68  STEEL  TRAPS. 

This,  the  Double  Jaw,  is  manufactured  in 
two  sizes;  namely,  91  with  spread  of  jaws  of  5£ 
inches;  No.  91^  with  spread  of  jaws  of  6|- 


XO.    91,    OR    DOUBLE    JAW    TRAP. 


inches.  The  Xo.  91  correspondent  in  size  to  the 
regular  Xo.  1  Xewhouse,  while  the  Xo.  91J  cor- 
responds to  the  regular  Xo.  1 1  Xewhouse  with 
the  exception  of  the  jaws. 

The  Double  Jaw  traps  are  so  constructed  that 
they  catch  the  animal  high  up  on  the  leg.  It  is 
no  uncommon  occurrence  for  the  trapper  to  find 
mink  and  other  small  animals  dead  when  caught 
in  this  trap  by  the  fore  foot.  It  is  supposed  that 
the  circulation  of  blood  thus  retarded  stops  the 
action  of  the  heart. 


DOUBLE  AND  WEB  JAW  TRAPS.  69 

These  traps  are  set  the  same  as  other  steel 
traps,  and  directions  given  elsewhere  apply  to 
these  as  well. 

While  the  Webbed  and  Double  Jaw  traps 
were  little  known  prior  to  1905,  trappers  have 
been  quick  to  see  the  advantage  derived  from 
using  them.  The  Double  Jaw  has  taken  even 
better  than  the  Webbed  Jaw. 

The  manufacturers  had  expected  skunk  trap- 
pers largely  to  be  the  buyers  and  this  would  in- 
clude roughly  speaking  the  section  east  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  south  of  Manitoba  and  Quebec 
and  north  of  the  States  bordering  on  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  But  the  demand  sprung  up  from  all 
parts  of  America.  This  shows  that  trappers  are 
finding  these  traps  good  ones  for  other  animals 
than  skunks  and  muskrats  for  which  they  were 
especially  designed. 

The  fact  that  trappers  found  out  about  these 
traps  so  quickly  is  due  largely  to  that  up-to-date 
trappers'  magazine  —  Hunter-Trader-Trapper, 
published  at  Columbus,  Ohio,  and  which  reaches 
trappers  in  all  parts  of  America.  The  Oneida 
Community,  Ltd.,  Oneida,  N.  Y.,  manufacturers 
of  these  traps  were  and  are  liberal  users  of  ad- 
vertising space  in  the  Hunter-Trader-Trapper  to 
let  trappers  know  of  improvements  in  the  trap 
line  that  are  of  value  to  them. 


70 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


w 
u 

u 


« 

o 


DOUBLE  AND  \VKB  JAW  TRAPS.  71 

* 

If  you  have  never  tried  any  of  the  No.  81, 
which  is  the  Webbed  Jaw,  or  Nos.  91  or  91^,  the 
Double  Jaw,  we  feel  sure  that  you  are  not  famil- 
iar with  traps  that  will  increase  your  catch.  We 
believe  that  all  trappers  should  have  at  least  a 
few  of  these  traps. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

VICTOR    AND    HAWLKY    &    NORTON    TRAPS. 

N  the  Victor  is  a  good  trap  consid- 
ering the  cheap  price  at  which  it  is 
sold  and  as  the  manufacturers  say : 
"Is  the  most  popular  trap  in  the 
world." 

While  professional  trappers  uea 
^  largely  the  Newhouse,  yet  in  thickly 
settled  sections  and  where  trappers  are  con- 
stantly bothered  by  trap  "lifters/'  the  Victor  is 
much  used.  While  the  trap  is  sold  at  a  very 
IOAV  price,  yet  it  is  the  best  trap  manufactured 
in  the  regular  or  long  spring  trap,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  Newhouse,  or  H.  &  N. 

The  Victor  is  manufactured  in  six  sizes  and 
each  is  adapted  to  the  following  use :  No.  0,  rat 
or  gopher;  No.  1,  muskrat;  No.  1^,  mink;  No. 
2,  fox;  No.  3?  otter;  No.  4,  beaver."  The  Nos.  0, 
1  and  1-J  are  single  spring;  Nos.  2,  3  and  4, 
double.  The  illustration  showing  No.  1  repre- 
sents also  Nos.  0  and  1-J  as  they  are  different 
only  in  size.  The  illustration  showing  No.  4  rep- 
resents Nos.  2  and  3  also  as  they  are  different 
only  in  size. 

These  traps  are  not  so  strong  in  any  part  as 

72 


VICTOR  AND  HAWLEY  &  NORTON  TRAPS.    73 

the  Newhouse  and  trappers  should  bear  this  in 
mind  when  setting  for  the  various  animals. 


NO.   1,    VICTOR  TRAP. 

The  No.  14  known  as  the  mink  trap  is  also  a 
splendid  muskrat  trap,  having  greater  spread  of 
jaws  than  the  No.  1  and  being  heavier  than  the 
No.  1  is  just  right  to  catch  and  drown  rats. 

The  Nos.  2,  3  and  4  are  all  double  spring  and 
made  for  fox,  otter  and  beaver  and  while  trap- 
pers catch  large  numbers  of  these  animals  in 
Victor  traps,  yet  the  more  experienced  ones 
prefer  the  Newhouse  traps  even  at  the  advanced 
price. 

The  Victor  is  used  largely  for  taking  the 
smaller  fur  bearers.  It  is  sold  in  large  quanti- 
ties in  all  parts  of  the  United  States  and  Can- 
ada. 

The  Hawley  &  Norton  is  made  only  in  six 


74  STEEL  TRAPS. 

sizes:   Nos.  0,  1  and  1}  single  spring;   Nos.  2,  3? 
and  4,  double  spring. 


NO.   4,    VICTOR   TRAP. 


A  lighter  grade  of  stock  is  used  in  manufac- 
turing these  traps  so  that  they  can  be  made 
somewhat  cheaper  than  the  Newhouse  and  altho 
not  as  strong,  they  are  a  good  reliable  trap. 


; 


CHAPTER  IX. 

JUMP    Tit  A  PS. 

HILE  the  Jump  Trap  has  been 
in  use  in  the  Eastern  part  of 
the  United  States  for  upwards 
of  fifty  years,  principally  in 
the  New  England  and  Sea 
Coast  States,  the  use  of  these 
traps  in  all  parts  of  the  coun- 
ry  did  not  become  general  until  a  few  years  ago. 
The  trap  derives  its  name  "Jump"  from  the 
act  that  the  spring  is  so  arranged  that  when  the 
trap  is  touched  off  or  sprung  by  an  animal  or 
otherwise,  it  "Jumps",  thus  catching  the  animal 
high  up  on  the  leg.  Trappers  that  have  not 
used  these  traps  express  doubts  of  their  "Jump- 
ing" and  catching  high  on  the  animal's  leg, 
but  hundreds  of  letters  received  by  the  manu- 
facturers from  trappers  and  also  published  in 
the  Hunter-Trader-Trapper  prove  that  they  do 
"Jump." 

The  manufacturers  claim  these  points  in 
their  favor.  They  are  somewhat  lighter  than  the 
regular  form  of  double  spring  traps  and  the  trap- 
per going  far  into  the  woods  can  carry  a  greater 
number;  they  set  much  flatter;  can  be  set  in 

75 


76  STEEL  TRAPS. 

smaller  space;  springs  are  out  of  the  way  as  no 
spring  extends  beyond  the  jaws;  pans  are  large 
so  that  no  animal  can  step  between  the  jaws 
without  springing  the  trap.  The  traps  are  set 
much  the  same  as  other  steel  traps. 

The  B.  &  L.  trap  is  manufactured  in  six  sizes, 
viz;  Nos.  0,  1  and  2,  single  spring;  Nos.  2-J,  3 
and  4  double  spring. 

Some  years  ago  the  Oneida  Community,  Ltd/ 
Oneida,  N.  Y.,  began  manufacturing  a  "Jump" 
trap  which  is  known  as  the  "Oneida  Jump". 
This  trap  has  a  new  style  of  jaws.  The  old  style 
was  made  of  thin  steel  whereas  these  have  full, 
wide-faced  jaws,  so  that  the  chances  of  breaking 
the  bone  in  the  leg  are  lessened. 

This  trap  has  a  chain  attachment,  fastening 
at  the  end  of  the  jaw  opposite  the  spring,  so  that 
when  the  animal  is  caught  and  struggles  to  get 
free  the  foot  is  only  gripped  the  tighter.  The 
trapper,  however,  can  fasten  the  chain  on  the 
end  of  the  crossbar,  opposite  dog,  as  there  is  a 
hole  drilled  there  for  that  purpose. 

The  "Oneida  Jump"  is  manufactured  in  nine 
sizes.  This  illustration  shows  a  No.  1.  It  is  a 
single  spring  as  are  also  No.  0  and  2 ;  the  other 
sizes  have  double  springs. 

These  sizes,  No.  0  to  No.  4,  are  adapted  to 
catching  the  various  animals  with  the  exception 


JUMP  TRAPS. 


77 


78  STEEL  TRAPS. 

of  timber  wolves  and  bears,  altho  the  larger  sizes 
are  used  for  taking  the  coyote  and  small  wolf. 

The  sizes  adapted  for  the  various  animals 
are:  No.  0,  rat  and  gopher;  No.  1,  muskrat;  No. 
2,  mink;  Xo.  2£,  coon  or  skunk;  No.  12^,  same 
as  2|,  with  teeth;  No.  3,  fox  or  otter;  No.  13, 
same  as  No.  3,  with  teeth;  No.  4,  otter  or  wild 
cat ;  No.  14,  same  as  No.  4,  with  teeth. 

The  No.  2  is  a  splendid  mink  trap  from  the 
fact  that  it  takes  little  room  and  can  be  set  in 
many  places  where  the  end  spring  cannot  be 
placed  to  advantage.  The  No.  2  for  mink  and  the 
No.  2^  for  coon  are  much  used  at  log  sets  as 
they  lie  so  flat  that  but  little  cutting  is  re- 
quired. 

The  No.  2  is  also  coming  into  use  as  a  marten 
trap  especially  for  log  and  notched  tree  sets. 

The  arrangement  of  the  springs  is  such  that 
the  ends  only  extend  about  an  inch  beyond  the 
jaws  so  that  the  double  spring  sizes  even,  do  not 
take  nearly  as  much  room  to  set  as  the  regular 
or  end  spring  trap. 

It  makes  no  difference  what  kind  of  a  set  is 
to  be  made  —  water,  land  or  snow,  the  fact  that 
this  make  of  trap  takes  but  little  room  and  lies 
very  flat,  should  not  be  lost  sight  of.  This  some- 
times is  quite  an  advantage. 

The  most  successful  trappers  are  those  who 
use  some  of  the  various  styles  of  traps  for  there 


JUMP  TRAPS. 


79 


A   "JUMP"    TRAP   TRAPPER. 


80  STEEL  TRAPS. 

are  certain  sets  where  each  can  be  used  to  the 
best  advantage. 

The  "Jump  Traps"  are  moderate  priced  and 
being  light  and  strong  for  their  size,  trappers  are 
taking  to  them,  finding  that  for  certain  sets  they 
have  no  equal.  No  trapper  should  start  out  for 
the  season  without  some  "Jumps." 


CHAPTER  X. 

TREE  TRAPS. 

XPERIENCED  trappers  fully  ap- 
preciate the  importance  of  having 
a  trap  that  when  the  animal  is 
caught,  it  is  caught  to  stay,  and 
instantly  killed  instead  of  being  held 
a  captive  by  the  foot  or  leg. 

Many  fully  realize  the  importance 
of  a  human  trap  that  will  accomplish  this,  and 
have  found  many  good  points  in  the  Tree  Trap. 
Most  practical  trappers  know  that  one  of  the 
most  successful  ways  to  set  steel  traps  for  many 
kinds  of  animals,  is  to  suspend  the  bait  about 
two  feet  over  the  trap,  compelling  the  animal  to 
step  on  the  pan  of  the  trap  in  order  to  get  at  it. 
This  may  be  very  good,  but  in  case  of  a  heavy 
snow  fall,  a  set  of  this  kind  means  that  your  trap 
is  snowed  under,  and  you  not  only  experience 
great  difficulty  in  locating  your  trap,  but  often 
are  unable  to  do  so  at  all  until  spring,  or  when 
the  snow  disappears. 

In  order  that  readers  may  fully  understand 
how  the  Tree  Trap  is  used,  two  sketches  are 
shown.  One  showing  the  trap  set,,  with  a  mink 
approaching;  the  other  one  having  caught  Mr. 
Coon,  and  killed  him  instantly,  not  damaging  the 
6  81 


82 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


fur.  This  trap  can  be  securely  nailed  to  a  tree, 
sturap  or  stake,  and  should  be  at  least  two  feet 
from  the  ground,  though  always  in  sight  and 


THE    TREE    TRAP. 

easy  to  get  to.  In  case  of  deep  snow  all  you  have 
to  do  is  to  bend  the  nails  around,  loosening  the 
trap  and  renail  it  a  few  feet  higher  up. 

How  to  Set. 

If  possible  find  a  suitable  tree  over  a  den  or 
close  to  a  runway.  Leave  the  trap  set  with  the 
safety  hook  holding  it  ( don't  spring  the  trap  un- 
less nailed  securely),  place  against  the  tree,  two 
or  three  feet  from  the  ground ;  mark  the  distance 
between  the  lower  notches  in  the  base  of  trap 
on  the  tree.  Then  drive  two  nails  (six  or  eight- 


TUBE  TRAPS.  83 

penny  will  do)  leaving  enough  of  the  nail  head 
so  the  two  bottom  notches  will  hook  over  the 
nail  heads  tightly,  then  drive  the  nails  in  the 
two  upper  notches  as  far  as  they  will  go.  This 
will  fasten  the  base  of  the  trap  tightly  to  the 
tree,  which  is  important. 

Next  bait  the  hook;  seeing  that  the  bait  is 
secure;  some  tie  it  on  with  a  string  or  thread. 
Now  release  the  safety  hook  and  your  trap  is 
ready.  Some  trappers  prefer  to  throw  some 
dead  grass,  leaves  or  boughs  on  top  of  the  trap, 
which  help  to  conceal  it,  this  is  a  good  idea.  A 
piece  of  a  rabbit,  squirrel,  bird  or  chicken  makes 
a  splendid  bait.  Fish  is  good  for  mink. 

One  great  advantage  of  Tree  Trap  over  many 
other  traps  is  that  when  it  catches  the  animal, 
it  not  only  holds,  but  kills  it.  While  traps  should 
be  looked  after  every  other  day  in  good  trapping 
weather;  with  the  Tree  Trap  twice  a  week  will 
do  without  the  game  escaping,  as  is  often  the 
case  with  common,  steel  traps,  but  you  cannot 
afford  to  take  chances.  Of  course,  in  very  warm 
weather,  traps  should  be  looked  at  more  fre- 
quently. On  the  other  hand,  during  very  severe 
weather,  the  trapper  need  not  make  the  rounds 
more  than  once  a  week.  This  is  important  to 
the  trapper  who  has  a  long  line  of  traps  out. 

Trappers  should  by  all  means  have  some  Tree 


84 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


Traps  among  their  outfit,  in  fact,  as  already  men- 
tioned, the  most  successful  trappers  have  a  sup- 
ply of  all  kinds  of  traps. 


TREE  TRAP  SET  AND  ANIMAL 
APPROACHING. 


ANIMAL  KILLED  IN  TREE  TRAP. 


The  Tree  Trap  does  not  weigh  as  much  as  a 
steel  trap  required  to  catch  the  same  size  ani- 
mals, and  when  set  secured  by  safety  hook,  they 
are  compact ;  occupying  very  little  space.  These 


TREE  TRAPS. 


85 


traps  are  made  by  the  Animal  Trap  Co.,  Lititz, 
Pa.,  and  are  highly  recommended  for  marten. 

Tree  Traps  are  manufactured  in  four  sizes 
adapted  to  catching  the  following  animals :  No. 
0  the  smallest  size,  for  weazel ;  No.  1,  for  mink, 
marten,  and  civet;  No.  2,  for  skunk  and  opos- 
sum ;  No.  3,  for  coon,  fisher  and  wild  cat. 

This  trap  can  be  used  to  splendid  advantage 
during  deep  snows  as  it  can  easily  be  set  against 
the  side  of  a  tree  at  any  height  the  trapper  de- 
sires, thus  proving  what  has  been  said  before, 
that  the  most  successful  trapper  has  some  of  all 
kinds  of  traps. 

The  greatest  field  for  the  Tree  Trap  is  the 
North,  yet  trappers  in  the  Central  and  Southern 
States  are  already  using  them  to  a  considerable 
extent  for  coon  and  opossum;  also  for  skunk 
and  mink. 


CHAPTER  XL 

STOP  THIEF. 

TOP  THIEF  TRAPS  are  manu- 
factured by  the  Animal  Trap  Co. 
A  great  deal  lias  been  said  for 
and  against  this  trap,  but  like  all 
traps,  one  must  know  how  to  use 
them.  Trappers  that  have  taken  the 
trouble  to  learn  how  to  set  them  re- 
port good  results.  A  great  many 
that  were  quick  to  condemn  them  at  first  now 
praise  them  highly. 

The  manufacturers  say  the  Xo.  1  is  for  squir- 
rels; No.  2,  for  mink  and  marten;  Xo.  3,  for 
skunk  and  opossum ;  Xo.  3^  for  fox  and  raccoon : 
Xo.  4,  for  wolves.  But  we  think  the  larger  sizes 
should  be  used  for  mink  and  skunk. 

In  trapping  for  mink,  fish,  bird  or  muskrat 
is  the  best  bait  but  a  hungry  mink  will  eat  al- 
most any  kind  of  fresh  meat.  When  convenient, 
scatter  dry  grass  or  leaves  over  the  trap  but  do 
not  cover  the  hole.  If  no  hole  is  found,  make 
one  or  two  in  earth  or  snow. 

Fasten  the  trap  with  a  chain  or  piece  of  wire 
to  a  stake  or  drag  of  some  kind,  when  near  the 

86 


STOP  THIEF.  87 

water.  No  fastening  is  needed  if  there  is  no 
water  near.  Find  where  the  raccoon,  skunk, 
civet  cat,  oppossum,  etc.,  frequent  and  set  the 
trap  in  the-  same  way  as  for  mink.  Bait  with 


STOP    THIEF    TRAP. 

bird,  chicken  and  the  like.  Oil  the  working 
parts  of  trap  to  prevent  rust. 

The  Stop  Thief  Trap  is  thought  very  highly 
of  by  some  trappers  for  use  in  a  peculiar  situa- 
tion and  like  the  New  Tree  Trap,  tho  not  as  yet 
well  known,  it  is  likely  to  prove  a  very  effective 
machine  in  the  hands  of  men  who  know  how  to 
use  it. 

I  procure  a  crotched  stick,  writes  a  Pennsyl- 
vania trapper,  the  prongs  of  which  are  about  1| 
to  1-J  inches  in  diameter  and  of  sufficient  spread 
to  fit  the  trap  with  which  they  are  to  be  used. 
I  send  a  drawing  which  will  make  it  plainer 
than  a  page  of  description.  The  best  way  of  set- 


88  STEEL  TRAPS. 

ting  a  trap  thus  equipped  will  readily  suggest 
itself  according  to  the  place  selected. 


METHOD    OF    SETTING   STOP   THIEF   TRAP. 


When  setting  at  a  hole  which  the  animal  is 
known  to  be  in,  the  wood  part  or  crotch  may  be 
placed  next  the  hole  or  ground  and  there  will  not 
be  much  of  the  iron  of  the  trap  exposed  to  the 
animal  as  it  comes  out.  Or,  if  setting  where  the 
animal  is  expected  to  come  and  enter  the  hole, 
the  trap  would  be  best  placed  with  the  wood  out. 
With  the  latter  set  one  would  have  to  be  careful 
to  place  the  trap  so  that  nothing  would  interfere 
with  the  working. 

Traps  thus  rigged  will,  of  course,  weigh  more 
than  the  bare  trap  and  are  more  bulky  and  cum- 
bersome, but  where  one  is  trapping  in  a  timbered 
.qpuntry  .the  crotch  need  not  be  cut  until  upon 


STOP  THIEF.  89 

the  ground  where  it  is  to  be  used,  or  if  in  a  sec- 
tion where  timber  is  scarce,  could  be  placed  be- 
forehand where  it  is  to  be  used,  just  as  one  would 
do  with  stakes,  rocks,  drags,  or  clogs,  spring 
poles  and  the  like,  when  setting  steel  jaw  traps. 
Dry  timber  could  be  used  instead  of  green  which 
would  lighten  materially.  However,  I  prefer  the 
heavier,  as  I  think  it  holds  the  trap  more  firmly 
in  place,  thus  requiring  less  fastening.  Small 
wire  is  best  to  fasten  the  trap  to  the  crotch  as 
mice  and  squirrels  will  cut  twine. 

While  I  feel  that  the  Stop  Thief  will  never 
begin  to  equal  any  steel  jaw  trap,  I  think  there 
are  times  when  it  may  be  used  to  advantage,  and 
I  expect  to  try  mine  again  the  coming  season 
and  expect  to  do  better  with  them  than  last  sea- 
son. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

WIDE  SPREADING  JAWS. 

CCASIONALLY  I  see  in  H-T-T, 
trappers  advocating  a  large 
spreading  trap,  writes  an  ex- 
perienced Canadian  trapper, 
and  some  even  go  so  far  as  to  invite 
the  trap  manufacturers  to  make  still 
wider  ones  than  are  now  on  the 
market.  My  experience  in  trapping,  which  was 
varied  and  extended  over  a  number  of  years,  is 
that  it's  a  mistake  to  have  a  trap  that  catches 
the  animals  too  high  up. 

The  best  and  most  enduring  hold  a  trap  can 
have  on  an  animal  is  the  paw  or  just  above 
where  it  joins  the  bottom  of  the  leg.  I  have 
found  this  with  beaver,  foxes,  marten,  lynx,  bear, 
and  in  fact  all  animals  I  have  caught.  Just  above 
and  the  paw  itself  is  a  mass  of  sinews  and  mus- 
cle enveloped  with  a  stronger  skin  than  any  part 
of  the  leg,  and  therefore  must  give  more  resist- 
ance. I  have  found  a  fox  that  was  caught  in 
a  No.  2  Newhouse  after  three  nights'  struggle 
as  secure  as  if  newly  seized.  The  jaws  having 
closed  securely  across  the  thick  part  of  the  fore- 
paw. 

90 


WIDE  SPREADING  JAWS. 


91 


92 


PEAPS. 


Again  from  a  shortness  of  a  proper  sized  trap 
I  once  set  a  No.  4,  for  a  fox.  The  fox  was  caught 
between  midnight  and  daylight,  and  when  I  vis- 
ited the  trap  at  the  latter  limit  (six  o'clock), 
it  was  high  time,  for  another  half  hour  of  strug- 
gling and  the  fox  would  have  been  clear  and 
away.  The  jaws  had  caught  him  half  way  up  the 
foreleg  and  snapped  the  bone  like  a  pipe  shank. 
With  his  twisting  and  leaping  there  only  re- 
mained a  strip  of  skin  and  one  tendon  that  kept 
him  prisoner. 

For  mink  I  have  found  a  No.  0  trap,  if  care- 
fully set  with  proper  precaution,  is  as  good  and 
lucky  as  a  No.  1  or  1^  trap,  as  some  trappers 
advocate.  I  used  a  bunch  on  a  considerable  sized 
lake  last  fall.  The  lake  had  numerous  small 
creeks  afld  rivers  falling  into  it.  At  the  junc- 
tion of  these  with  the  lake  I  set  my  traps. 
They  were  all  No.  0  selected  on  account  of  their 
lightness.  As  there  was  a  long  carry  to  get  to 
the  lake  from  a  traveled  route  and  added  to  the 
canoe,  my  gun,  blanket  and  provisions,  the  traps 
were  somewhat  of  a  consideration,  and  I  there- 
fore took  the  one  ef  less  weight.  I  made  two 
visits  to  the  lake  before  it  froze  and  got  twenty 
mink,  one  marten  and  a  female  fisher. 

When  I  made  a  water  set  I  saw  that  the  bank 
outside  went  down  pretty  bold  and  I  always  tied 
a  stone  tb  the  trap  and  thus  insured  the  animal 


WIDE  SPREADING  .JAWS.  93 

drowning.  Where  I  set  on  land  without  fail  I 
attached  the  chain  to  a  tossing  pole,  thereby  pre- 
venting the  fur  being  damaged  by  mice  or  the 
animal  being  eaten  by  some  other.  Some  may 
question  the  possibility  of  such  small  traps  being 
for  any  length  of  time  in  order  as  a  water  set, 
but  I  must  explain.  The  lake  was  of  considerable 
size  and  the  season  the  latter  part  of  October. 
Such  a  lake  at  that  season  of  the  year  is  not  sub- 
ject to  any  fluctuations  in  the  height  of  water. 

I  may  say  in  conclusion  about  this  particular 
sized  trap  that  on  that  trapping  tour  I  only  lost 
one  mink,  I  found  the  trap  sprung  with  a  single 
toe  in  the  jaws.  The  trap  had  been  a  dry  set 
one,  and  by  reading  the  signs  I  found  some  snow 
had  melted  and  dripped  from  an  overhanging 
branch  on  to  the  junctions  of  the  jaws.  This 
had  frozen  (the  trap  being  in  the  Siiade)  and 
prevented  its  usual  activity.  As  a  consequence 
it  only  caught  on  as  the  mink  was  in  the  act  of 
lifting  his  foot,  so  I  was  satisfied  it  was  the  cir- 
cumstances and  not  the  fault  of  the  trap  thai 
caused  the  missing  of  this  mink. 

Another  undesirable  point  about  any  trap  is 
to  have  the  springs  too  powerful  for  its  intended 
use.  One  only  wants  a  trap's  jaws  to  close  up 
sudden  enough  and  to  hold  what  it  catches  se- 
cure against  any  possibility  of  the  animal  with- 
drawing its  foot.  Once  you  have  1his  it's  all 


94  STEEL  TRAPS. 

that's  required  or  necessary.  A  trap  with 
springs  with  a  strength  out  of  reason  is  awk- 
ward and  vexatious  to  open,  and  when  the  ani- 
mal is  caught  goes  on  with  its  continued  pressure 
until  the  jaws  of  their  own  action  almost  sever 
the  paw  or  leg,  and  the  animal  with  very  little 
struggling  finishing  the  amputation. 

I  knew  an  Indian  once  who  had  a  bear  trap 
which  was  not  much  larger  in  spread  than  a 
No.  4  trap.  An  ordinary  man  by  placing  a  foot 
on  each  spring  could  set  it,  and  yet  that  trap 
was  his  most  reliable  one.  He  had  others  too, 
but  he  took  his  "Davy"  on  that.  It  acted  like 
that  celebrated  motto,  "What  we  have,  we  hold." 

This  trap  was  made  from  his  own  directions, 
and  he  had  the  jaws  at  their  inner  edge  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  thick  and  bevelled  off  to  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  at  the  outer  sides.  As  he 
aptly  put  it  —  "I  want  the  trap  to  hold  the  bear 
until  I  go  there  and  shoot  it,  not  to  chop  off  its 
foot." 

Another  point  about  a  bear  trap  that  I  con- 
sider could  be  remedied  with  advantage  to  the 
trapper,  is  to  have  the  ordinary  chains  length- 
ened by  a  few  links.  It  is  not  always  possible  to 
place  the  drag  stick  close  up  to  the  open  trap, 
but  where  the  chain  is  longer  no  difficulty  Avould 
be  found.  A  few  more  links  would  add  very 
little  to  the  weight  or  cost. 


WIDE  SPREADING  JAWS. 


95 


96  STEEL  TRAPS. 

To  a  lone  trapper  setting  bear  traps  miles 
away  from  any  human  beings,  it's  a  tricky  and 
dangerous  job.  I  consider  a  man  so  situated 
should,  as  a  precaution,  carry  one  of  those  patent 
clamps  for  depressing  the  springs,  in  his  pocket. 
I  am  aware  some  do  not  use  them,  as  they  con- 
sider them  too  slow,  preferring  a  couple  of  short 
levers  jammed  under  a  root  and  pressed  down 
with  the  knees  while  the  hands  open  the  jaws 
and  place  the  trigger.  Others  use  a  piece  of 
stout  cord  to  tie  down  one  spring,  while  with 
their  weight  on  the  other  the  jaws  fall  apart. 

But  accidents  will  happen  to  the  most  care- 
ful persons ;  by  some  inadvertance  he  might  get 
caught  by  the  hand  or  thoughtlessly  step  into  it, 
and  if  he  did  not  perish  would  have  considerable 
difficulty  in  getting  out,  while  with  a  cool  head 
and  a  clamp  within  reach  he  could  promptly 
free  himself.  I  knew  one  man  who  lost  his  life 
in  a  bear  trap  and  another  who  had  almost  suc- 
cumbed to  his  suffering  when  found  and  released. 
There  are  three  things  with  a  trapper's  life  that 
I  was  always  extremely  polite  and  careful  witl\ 
— a  bark  canoe,  a  bear  trap,  and  a  gun.  I 
handled  these  for  forty  years  but  never  fooled 
with  them. 

Had   the   Indian   mentioned    used   the   cele- 
brated  Newhouse  traps,-   we  feel   sure  that  he  • 
would  have  found  no  cause  to  complain.    While 


Wini;  SPREADING  JAWS.  97 

to  some  trappers  the  springs  may  sometimes  ap- 
pear to  be  too  stiff,  yet  the  face  of  the  jaws  are 
wide  and  as  the  manufacturers  are  always  in 
correspondence  with  bear  and  other  trappers, 
there  is  no  question  but  that  they  know  and  are 
now  manufacturing  what  meets  the  views  of  the 
majority  of  trappers. 

We  believe  that  of  some  sizes  they  are  making 
the  face  of  the  jaws  even  wider  than  formerly. 

The  Newhouse  bear  traps  are  furnished  with 
bear  chain,  clevis  and  bolt,  illustrated  and  de- 
scribed under  Newhouse  Traps,  but  briefly  de- 
scribed here.  This  chain  is  five  feet  long  and 
with  clevis  can  be  fastened  around  any  log  which 
the  trapper  will  want  to  use. 

One  thing  must  be  born  in  mind,  viz :  That 
when  traps  are  set,  they  are  covered,  and  should 
severe  weather  follow,  freezing  this  covering,  it 
requires  a  stiff  spring  to  throw  the  jaws  to- 
gether quickly.  Our  belief  is  that  more  largo 
animals  escape  from  traps  too  \voak  than  from 
the  too  strong  ones.  Yet  there  are  times,  no 
doubt,  when  had  the  spring  been  weaker  and  the 
face  of  the  jaws  wider,  the  results  would  have 
been  fully  as  satisfactory. 


CHAPTEI 

CARING  FOR  TI 

OTE  that  traps  should  be 
examined  carefully  just  be- 
fore being  set  to  see  if  they, 
will  work  properly.  New 
traps  should  be  thoroughly 
greased  with  almost  any 
kind  of  grease  that  has  no 
salt  in  it.  Salt  will  rust 
traps.  It  is  to  guard 
against  rust  as  much  as  anything  else  that  you 
should  grease  your  traps,  for  in  that  condition 
they  are  not  so  apt  to  give  good  service. 

If  you  have  a  supply  of  traps  that  are  badlv 
rusted,  kerosene  poured  over  them  and  let  stand 
for  a  few  hours  will  tend  to  remove  the  rust. 
After  you  have  cleaned  all  of  the  rust  off  possi- 
ble, grease  the  trap  carefully  and  thoroughly 
with  some  good  fresh  grease,  such  as  lard  or 
the  fat  of  some  animal.  Good  oil  will  answer  if 
you  can  not  get  the  animal  fat.  Trappers  can 
usually  get  an  animal  or  two  and  fry  the  fat 
from  it.  This  is  an  easy  task  and  with  this 
grease  your  traps.  If  this  is  done  with  old  traps 
at  the  close  of  the  season  it  will  help  preserve 

98 


CARING  FOR  TRAPS. 


99 


100  STEEL  TRAPS. 

them.  It  is  a  good  idea,  also  just  before  trap- 
ping begins. 

With  new  traps  it  is  much  more  important 
that  they  be  greased  before  setting  as  they  will 
badly  rust  if  not  thus  treated;  old  traps  that 
haye  been  greased  a  number  of  times  can  be 
neglected  rather  than  the  new  ones.  If  possi- 
ble it  is  best  to  attend  to  this  seyeral  days  be- 
fore the  traps  are  set,  so  that  a  part  of  the 
grease  will  be  dried  in,  or  eyaporated  so  that 
in  setting  there  will  not  be  so  much  to  get  on 
your  hands,  clothes,  etc. 

In  this  connection  it  will  not  be  amiss  to 
say  that  traps  should  be  carefully  gone  over 
before  they  are  set,  to  see  that  every  part  is 
in  working  order.  There  may  be  broken  links 
in  the  chain,  or  'other  defects.  Th£  swivel  may 
be  rusty  and  will  not  turn  and  the  first  animal 
caught  is  apt  to  break  the  chain.  Many  times 
hare  trappers  gone  to  their  traps  only  to  find  a 
part  of  the  chain  remaining  as  some  animal  had 
broken  it  and  escaped.  All  traps  should  be 
very  carefully  gone  over  and  mended,  otherwise 
you  may  not  only  loose  the  trap  but  a  valuable 
pelt  as  well. 

What  is  best  to  apply  to  prevent  their  rust- 
ing? writes  a  number  of  trappers. 

Almost  any  oil  will  answer,  but  perhaps  ani- 
mal fat  is  best  and  can  be  obtained  by  trappers 


CARING  FOR  TIMJ'S.  101 

easily.  Many  trappers  -vivfer  IV  have  their 
traps  somewhat  rusty,  or  at  least  want  the  new- 
ness worn  off.  It  is  not  a  bad  idea  to  smear 
traps  in  the  blood  of  rabbits  or  birds. 

To  clean  your  traps,  boil  them  in  ashes  and 
water,  rinse  clean  in  hot  water,  then  dip  in  hot 
water  with  melted  beeswax  floating.  Raise  them 
slowly  out  of  this  so  as  to  coat  every  part. 
Hang  up  to  drain  and  dry  and  your  traps  are 
ready. 

In  what  condition  are  your  traps  for  begin- 
ning a  vigorous  campaign ;  have  you  boiled  them 
in  soft  maple  bark  or  the  husks  of  walnuts,  to 
stain  and  eliminate  the  coating  of  rust,  so  that 
they  will  work  well  and  be  free  of  the  4«nimal 
scent  from  last  season?  All  second  hand  traps 
should  have  this  attention  before  trapping  is 
begun.  New  traps  will  not  take  the  stain  until 
they  have  been  used  and  rusted. 

If  it  is  hard  for  you  to  get  soft  maple  bark 
or  black  walnut  husks,  you  can  get  a  pound  of 
logwood  chips  at  the  drug  store  which  will  he 
sufficient  for  a  five-gallon  kettle  of  water.  After 
a  good  dye  is  made  put  in  what  traps  the  liquid 
will  cover  and  boil  15  or  20  minutes  for  each 
lot.  If  the  water  gets  low  put  on  a  pailful  or 
so  as  it  boils  away.  If  you  only  have  a  few 
traps  use  less  coloring  material  and  less  water. 
Logwood  makes  a  jet  black. 


CARING  FOR  TRAPS.  103 

When  the  fall  trapping  is  over,  the  traps 
will  be  somewhat  rusty  again.  Not  many  will 
go  to  the  trouble  to  color  them  again  in  the 
same  season,  but  now  that  the  wreather  is  cold 
and  the  rusting  process  is  slow  and  you  can 
renovate  them  and  lubricate  in  the  following 
manner :  Smear  all  the  rusty  and  working  parts 
with  fresh  lard;  also,  the  chain  and  swivel,  and 
then  with  a  wire  hook  or  iron  rod  hold  the  trap 
over  a  small  fire  until  the  grease  is  melted  and 
smokes.  The  heat  will  not  hurt  the  trap  so  long 
as  you  do  not  heat  the  spring  too  hot.  When 
the  trap  is  cool  enough  to  handle,  rub  it  well 
with  old  paper  to  remove  loose  grease  and  you 
will  have  a  trap  that  will  not  play  you  false. 
A  good  greasing  like  this  will  last  all  winter. 

This  article  will  not  appeal  to  the  many, 
but  to  the  few  trappers  who  are  so  situated  that 
their  mode  of  trapping  prevents  them  in  bring- 
ing home  their  traps  when  the  season  is  over. 
A  man  who  has  a  long  line  of  traps  set  out  is 
often  at  loss  as  to  their  disposal  for  the  sum- 
mer months.  To  pack  out  on  one's  back  a 
weight  of  iron  at  a  season  when  walking  in  the 
bush  is  at  its  worst,  especially  if  the  trapper 
is  to  return  and  set  up  the  same  line  the  next 
season,  is  a  useless  labor  and  a  heart  and  back 
breaking  job. 

To  avoid  this  the  best  way  is  to  "cache1'  them 


TRAPS    AND    TRAPPER. 
104 


I  A 

! 


cl 

: 


CARING  FOR  TRAPS.  105 

in  bunches  where  they  are  to  bo  used  again. 
This  I  know  is  a  risky  plan  when1  John  Sueakum 
rowls  the  bush,  yet  it  can  be  done  in  safely  if 
ne  takes  proper  precaution  to  rub  out  his  trail. 
The  "caching"  of  them  is  not  the  only  question 
to  be  considered  but  also  to  leave  them  hidden  in 
inch  a  way  that  when  next  required  they  may 
at  once  serviceable  for  immediate  lise. 
My  first  venture  at  leaving  them  in  the  bush 
ys  a  Northern  trapper  was  in  this  way.  I 
began  at  the  furthest  end  of  my  line  and  gath- 
ered them  till  I  had  twenty.  These  I  tied  se- 
curely together  with  a  piece  of  twisted  bale 
wire  through  the  rings.  I  then  stepped  off  the 
main  line  to  a.  clump  of  evergreens  and  bending 
a  sapling  down  bow  fashion,  secured  the  bunch 
o  the  top  and  let  the  tree  fly  back  to  its  place. 
Regaining  the  main  line  I  took  a  memoran- 
um  in  my  note  book  as  to  the  cache  something 
like  the  following:  Cache  No.  1  —  "Bunch  of 
twenty  No.  1  traps,  left  opposite  rotten  stump 
n  left  hand  side  of  road  in  thicket  of  ever- 
greens, about  thirty  paces  away,"  and  so  on 
with  each  deposit  always  mentioning  some  land 
ark  as  a  guide  to  my  finding  them  the  next 
utumn. 

Well,  this  mode  was  not  a  success.  It  was 
alright  as  far  as  the  safety  of  the  traps  wrere 
concerned,  but  I  found  them  in  a  frightful  state 


106  STEEL  TRAPS. 

of  rust  from  the  action  of  the  rain  and  atmo- 
sphere, and  it  took  an  hour  of  my  time  at  each 
"cache"  to  rub  them  into  a  semblance  of  clean- 
liness. Moreover,  there  was  a  remote  possibil- 
ity of  a  bush  fire  running  over  that  territory, 
which,  while  it  might  not  consume  the  traps, 
the  action  of  the  flames  would  have  drawn  the 
the  temper  from  the  springs  to  a  degree  that 
would  have  made  them  useless. 

The  accidental  leaving  of  an  otter  trap  set 
all  summer  led  me  to  "caching"  my  traps  un- 
der water,  that  is  those  that  I  could  conveni- 
ently carry  to  a  lake  or  river.  This  otter  trap 
when  I  came  to  it  the  following  fall  was  cov- 
ered with  a  light  fluffy  rust  the  color  of  yellow 
ochre.  It  stained  my  hands  like  paint,  but  was 
readily  washed  off.  I  held  the  chain  in  my  hand 
and  by  sousing  the  trap  up  and  down  several 
times  in  the  water,  was  surprised  to  see  the  metal 
come  as  clear  as  when  first  the  trap  left  the  shop. 

I  therefore,  ever  afterwards  hid  those  traps 
that  were  near  a  lake  or  river  in  the  water. 
There  were  traps,  however,  which  were  too  far 
from  water  to  be  easily  transported  and  as  the 
tree  tops  were  voted  bad,  I  set  to  considering 
other  modes  of  storing  them.  The  atmosphere 
being  too  corroding  I  decided  to  bury  them 
underground.  The  result  was  that  the  next 
autumn  I  found  those  that  were  in  clay  or  heavy 


CAKING  FOR  TRAPS.  107 

soil  came  out  rusty,  while  those  in  sandy  soil 
were  very  little  acted  upon,  but  the  best  con- 
ditioned were  those  hidden  under  rotten  leaves 
or  vegetable  matter,  so  ever  afterwards  I  kept 
my  traps  either  in  the  water  or  hidden  under 
the  last  conditions. 

When  leaving  a  bunch  in  the  water  I  simply 
tied  the  bunch  together,  went  a  little  to  one  side 
of  the  direct  canoe  route  and  dropped  them  over- 
board in  about  three  or  four  feet  of  water,  be- 
ing careful  to  have  some  noticeable  object  ashore 
in  direct  line. 

When  next  required  I  merely  lashed  a  large 
cod  hook  to  a  short  pole,  fished  them  up,  took 
them  aboard  my  canoe  and  washed  the  bunch 
clean  at  a  portage.  In  any  case  I  do  not  think 
it  is  adding  to  the  luck  of  a  trap  to  have  them 
greased  and  hung  up  in  or  about  the  house. 
The  smell  imparted  to  them  is  worse  than  the 
odor  of  clean  iron.  If  I  found  a  trap  slow  in 
snapping  I  usually  rubbed  a  little  odorless  polish 
into  the  joints  of  the  jaws  and  carried  a  rabbit's 
foot  to  use  as  a  brush. 


FRAPS. 


EEY  trapper,  like  all  other 
classes,  have  many  things  to  co 
tend  with.  One  of  the  worst,  pe 
tiaps,  is  the  trap  stealer,  who  ha 
ing  once  found  one  of  your  traps  will 
follow  up  your  line  and  take  them  all. 
If  he  can  not  find  them  by  your 
tracks,  he  is  apt  to  hide  close  by  and  wait  until 
you  go  the  round,  then  follow  up  and  take  your 
entire  outfit  of  traps.  To  be  sure  that  they  are 
your  property  you  should  mark  each  and  every 
trap  before  the  trapping  season  or  just  as  soon 
as  they  are  bought,  at  any  rate  before  they  are 
set. 

There  are  several  ways  to  mark  traps.  One 
of  the  easiest  and  best  ways  is  with  a  file.  Se- 
lect your  mark  or  marks  and  file  on  each  trap. 
Several  notches  filed  on  the  under  side  of  the 
trap  will  not  injure  the  trap  and  will  be  a  good 
means  of  identifying  your  property,  should  you 
ever  happen  upon  them  again.  Place  all  the 
notches  in  the  same  position  and  at  the  same 
place  on  each  trap  and  you  have  a  good  mark. 
The  notches  may  be  filed  almost  any  place,  ex- 
cepting on  the  spring,  and  they  should  be  filed  on 

108 


109 


110  STEEL  TRAPS. 

two  or  three  different  parts  of  the  trap.  Should 
the  person  who  stole  the  traps  attempt  to  file 
out  the  notches,  YOU  can  tell  from  the  places  filed 
if  they  are  your  traps,  as  all  have  been  marked 
exactly  alike. 

The  trap  stealer,  if  he  knows  that  they  are 
marked  with  the  owner's  private  mark,  is  not  so 
apt  to  take  them,  for  he  knows  that  the  owner, 
should  he  find  them  in  his  possession,  can  easily 
prove  property.  Whereas  if  there  was  no  mark 
on  the  trap;  the  thief  could  not  be  convicted  un- 
less seen  taking  them.  The  thief  also  knows  that 
if  he  is  discovered,  his  trapping  grounds  will  be 
watched.  So  having  all  traps  marked  in  some 
way -it  lessens  the  chances  of  their  being  stolen 
as  well  as  helps  to  identify  them  after  they  are 
taken.  By  all  means  mark  all  your  traps  —  you 
may  happen  on  some  of  them  unexpectedly  that 
have  been  missing  for  years.  After  you  have 
marked  a  trap  never  trade  or  sell  it,  as  you 
would  then  not  be  able,  should  you  happen  upon 
traps  bearing  your  mark,  to  tell  whether  they 
had  been  sold  or  stolen. 

Many  trappers  who  lose  traps  by  "Sneakum"' 
each  year  do  not  have  them  marked.  Often 
your  traps  are  stolen  by  some  one  in  your  own 
vicinity  as  they  know  they  can  set  them. 

How  about  this  if  your  traps  are  stamped 
with  vour  own  initials?  The  thief  will  know 


MARKING  TRAPS.  Ill 

that  you  can  identify  your  property,  and  will  not 
be  so  apt  to  steal  as  he  will  be  afraid  to  set  them. 
When  you  mark  your  traps,  never  sell  them, 
so  that  YOU  know  every  trap  bearing  your  initial 
is  your  property,  making  no  difference  where 
found. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

HOW  TO  FASTEN. 

EFOEE  a  trapper  has  much  ex- 
perience he  loses  much  of  his  game, 
after  it  has  been  caught,  by  not 

having   his   traps   properly    fastened. 

Having  his  traps  so  securely  staked 
that  anything  caught  can  get  a  dead  pull  is  usu- 
ally the  way  the  trapper  with  little  experience 
fails, 

HOAV  many  of  you  are  still  driving  stakes 
into  the  ground  and  otherwise  fastening  your 
traps  so  that  when  an  animal  is  caught,  it  pulls 
on  the  chain?  In  trapping  for  muskrat,  the 
stake  may  be  used,  but  for  any  other  animal, 
never.  Even  in  the  case  of  the  muskrat  the  slid- 
ing pole  is  much  better.  This  device  is  made  as 
follows:  Tut  a  pole  or  bush,  say  six  or  eight  feet 
long,  trimming  off  the  brandies  so  that  the  ring 
will  readily  slide  nearly  the  length  of  the  pole. 
On  the  end  leave  a  few  branches  or  short  twigs 
so  the  ring  will  not  slide  off.  The  other  end  can 
be  stuck  into  the  bank  or  tied  with  the  small 
end  extending  out  into  deep  water.  When  a  rat 
is  caught,  it  makes  for  deep  water  and  is 
drowned.  If  you  use  stakes  to  fasten  your  traps 
for  muskrat,  set  them  out  into  the  water  as  far 

112 


How  TO  FASTEN. 


113 


as  possible  so  that  your  game  cannot  get  to  the 
land  and  will  soon  drown. 


THE   SLIDING   POLE. 

The  proper  way  to  secure  your  trap,  when 
trapping  for  other  animals  than  muskrat,  is  to 
drive  the  staple  into  a  small  bush  as  shown  in 
illustration,  or  the  chain  can  be  looped  around 
the  bush  near  the  end,  writh  a  branch  or  two  left 
on  to  keep  the  chain  from  slipping  off.  The  size 
of  the  bush  can  be  determined  from  the  sized 
animals  you  are  trapping.  If  there  are  no  bushes 
convient,  a  piece  of  fence  rail  or  chunk  will  an- 
swer, altho  these  will  not  give  so  readily  as  the 
bush,  which  will  move  easily  with  each  and 

8 


114  STEEL  TRAPS. 

every  lunge  of  the  animal  caught  so  that  its 
chances  of  getting  out  of  the  trap  are  lessened. 

When  your  trap  is  thus  fastened,  the  game 
will  often  get  several  feet  or  perhaps  rods  away 
from  the  den,  but  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  find 
the  trap  and  game.  If  in  an  open  field,  a  glance 


A   STAPLE   FASTENING. 

around  will  usually  find  the  bush  and  game, 
while  if  in  the  woods,  a  trail  will  be  left  that 
can  easily  be  followed. 

The  important  fact  that  traps  thus  fastened 
give  with  each  and  every  pull  and  struggle  of 
the  animal  should  not  be  overlooked;  in  fact,  if 
the  trap  has  not  a  firm  hold,  the  bush  gives  so 
easily  that  there  is  no  chance  for  the  animal  to 


How  TO  FASTEN.  115 

get  a  dead  pull  —  that  is,  a  solid  one.  See  that 
all  traps  are  fastened  as  above  described  and  one 
of  the  principal  causes  of  failure  will  have  been 
remedied  to  a  great  extent  and  your  game  will 
not  get  away  after  once  being  caught. 

In  case  a  trapper  cannot  visit  his  traps  very 
often,  or  he  is  annoyed  by  the  presence  of  those 
animals  that  are  liable  to  destroy  his  catch,  the 
use  of  the  spring  pole  for  dry  land  trapping  will 
be  found  very  efficient  in  preventing  the  loss  of 
game. 

This  contrivance  is  designed  to  lift  the 
trapped  animal  high  in  the  air  and  thus  both 
hamper  it  in  its  efforts  to  escape  and  prevent 
other  animals  from  devouring  it.  It  is  made  as 
follows:  If  possible,  select  a  standing  sapling 
for  the  purpose.  If  this  cannot  be  done,  then  cut 
a  pole  from  some  elastic  wood,  trim  and  drive  it 
firmly  in  the  ground,  then  fasten  the  trap  chain 
to  the  uppen  end.  Now  bend  down  and  catch 
the  small  end  under  a  notched  peg  or  root  in 
such  a  way  that  the  least  struggle  of  an  animal 
in  the  trap  will  release  the  pole  and  lift  him  high 
in  the  air.  Of  course  the  trapper  will  propor- 
tion the  strength  of  his  pole  to  the  size  of  his 
intended  victim. 

All  trappers  have  experienced  a  feeling  of 
regret  when  visiting  traps  where  game  has  been 
caught  and  escaped.  The  ones  who  properly  fas- 


116  STEEL  TRAPS. 

ten  traps  seldom  have  their  game  escape,  altho 
occasionally,  when  not  securely  caught  and  the 
trapper  does  not  make  his  rounds  often,  an  ani- 
mal will  get  away. 


SHALLOW  WATER  SET. 

For  a  shallow  water  set  we  commend  the  one 
shown  above.  Place  a  second  stake  eight  or  ten 
inches  from  the  fastening  ^stake  having  short 
stubs  on  both  and  the  animal  will  soon  wind 
himself  up  around  the  two  and  drown. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

HOW  TO  SET. 

ERE  is  a  very  difficult  question, 
How  to  Set?  yet  by  carefully 
noting  the  illustrations  in  this 
chapter  we  believe  that  many 
will  be  benefited,  especially  inexperi- 
enced trappers.  Some  trappers  have 
continued  to  set  their  traps,  after 
years  of  experience  with  springs  sticking  straight 
out,  that  is,  so  that  the  animal  will  step  upon 
the  spring  first.  This  often  warns  them  of  the 
danger.  Others  set  traps  without  a  sign  of  cov- 
ering. In  each  instance  they  may  catch  a  few 
rabbits  and  perhaps  a  skunk  or  two,  but  they  are 
not  trappers  and  will  not  catch  much  game. 

Having  decided  where  you  are  going  to  set, 
if  at  a  den,  make  an  excavation  the  size  of  the 
trap  and  about  an  inch  deep,  place  the  trap  in 
the  position  (just  at  the  entrance  of  den)  and 
so  that  an  animal  in  going  in  or  coming  out  will 
not  step  on  the  spring  but  on  the  pan  of  the 
trap. 

The  trap  should  be  in  such  a  position  that 
the  animal  will  approach  if  preferably  from  the 
end  opposite  the  spring.  If  the  whereabouts  of 
the  animal  cannot  be  determined,  then  the  next 

m 


o 

5 
w 
> 
o 
u 


9 


o 

K 


118 


How  TO  SET.  119 

best  way  for  him  to  approach  is  from  the  spring 
end  of  the  jaws,  the  spring  always  being  thrown 
around  towards  the  cross  piece,  out  of  the  way. 

If  setting  in  a  path  in  a  run  beside  a  log  or  a 
similar  situation,  set  the  jaws  endways,  not 
across  the  path  and  bring  the  pan  a  little  to 
one  side  of  the  center,  as  near  as  you  can  judge 
where  the  animal  will  place  his  foot  as  he  steps 
over  the  stick,  stone  or  other  object  you  have 
prepared  for  the  purpose. 

Many  trappers  place  traps  well  back  in  the 
den,  but  our  experience  has  taught  us  not  to  do 
this.  A  trapper  who  has  followed  the  tracks  of 
an  animal,  in  the  snow,  has  undoubtedly  noticed 
that  he  went  to  scores  of  dens  but  turned  away 
after  going  to  the  mouth  of  most  of  them.  From 
this  it  will  readily  be  seen  that  a  trap  set  well 
back  in  the  den  would  not  be  disturbed,  Avhile 
set  as  shown  would  perhaps  have  caught  the 
animal. 

After  the  trap  is  set,  leaves,  nioss,  grass,  etc., 
should  be  carefully  placed  over  the  trap  and 
chain,  so  that  everything  will  appear  as  natural 
as  possible.  In  covering  traps,  use  whatever 
kind  of  material  that  was  in  mouth  of  den,  that 
is,  if  the  den  was  filled  with  leaves,  cover  the 
trap  with  leaves,  etc.  In  this  illustration  the 
(rap  is  purposely  left  uncovered  so  that  trappers 
can  see  the  position  the  trap  should  be  in. 


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8 


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c/) 


120 


How  TO  SET.  121 

If  there  are  other  entrances  to  the  den  they 
should  all  be  closed,  with  the  exception  of  the 
one  where  the  trap  is  set.  The  only  time  that 
it  is  advisable  to  close  all  entrances  is  when  you 
are  sure  that  an  animal  is  within.  You  are  only 
sure  of  this  when  your  dog  has  holed  an  animal, 
or  you  have  tracked  one  in  the  snow  into  the 
den.  There  may  be  times,  however,  when  you 
have  your  traps  baited  and  the  bait  has  been 
taken  from  the  inside.  In  such  cases  you  feel 
confident  that  the  game  is  within.  At  such  times 
it  may  be  the  best  policy  to  close  up  the  entrance 
and  set  your  trap  within,  yet,  if  properly  set, 
you  are  reasonably  sure  to  make  a  catch  when 
the  animal  ventures  out  and  also  have  a  chance 
to  make  a  catch,  should  an  animal  happen  along 
on  the  outside* 

Traps  should  be  set  carefully  and  everything 
around  the  den  left  as  natural  as  before  setting. 
Dig  a  hole  for  your  trap  a'nd  carefully  cover  trap 
and  chain  with  dirt,  leaves  or  grass.  Be  care- 
ful that  nothing  gets  under  treddle  of  trap. 
After  once  setting  traps,  go  only  near  enough 
to  see  that  they  are  not  sprung  or  containing 
game. 

When  setting  trap  in  wet  earth,  place  paper, 
cat  tail,  dry  leaves,  grass  or  some  substance  un- 
der trap  so  that  during  freezing  weather  the 
earth  will  not  freeze  to  spring  and  jaws,  thus 


o 

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> 
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W 
H 


W 


122 


How  TO  SET.  123 

preventing  its  springing  when  an  animal  steps 
on  the  treadle.  A  little  wool  or  cotton  placed 
under  treadle  often  keeps  the  dirt  from  getting 
under.  It  pays  to  set  traps  well  —  in  fact  too 
much  pains  cannot  be  taken. 

I  often  read  of  the  disappointments  of  a 
trapper  when  visiting  his  line  of  marten  traps 
to  find  ermine,  squirrels,  blue-jays  and  even  mice 
caught  in  place  of  the  animal  he  intended  to 
catch. 

Now  this  is  very  vexatious,  as  the  marten  has 
departed  for  a  district  quite  distant  and  is  thus 
lost  forever  to  him.  An  Indian  or  a  regular 
trapper  that  knows  his  business  always  puts  a 
spring  twig  under  the  pallet  of  his  trap  of  suf- 
ficient strength  to  bear  up  the  weight  of  these 
small  fry  and  yet  not  too  strong  to  prevent  the 
larger  animals  from  setting  it  off.  In  trapping 
for  beaver  and  otter  in  open  water  we  always 
use  the  spring  to  prevent  mink  and  musquash 
from  getting  caught.  Of  course  these  are  fur- 
bearers  and  proportionately  valuable,  yet  there 
are  times  one  does  not  wish  to  have  them  in  the 
trap. 

Even  in  setting  bear  traps  a  spring  under 
the  pallet  is  used  to  prevent  foxes,  lynx,  fishers 
and  marten  from  springing  it.  This  is  doubly 
necessary  in  setting  bear  traps  for  the  reason 
that  when  one  has  bear  traps  set  the  foregoing 


124 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


animals  are  unprime  and  consequently  of  next 
to  no  value.  The  spring  for  a  No.  1  or  a  No.  1£ 
trap  is  made  from  a  lower  small  branch  of  a 
balsam  or  tamarack  tree.  Why  I  say  lower 
branches  is  because  it  is  not  so  full  of  gum  and 
suppleness  as  the  top  branches,  while  not  actu- 
ally dry,  it  is  sufficiently  so  to  impart  a  spring 
effect. 


WRONG    POSITION    SET. 

It  is  broken  off  about  four  inches  in  length 
and  freed  of  needles.  One  end  is  introduced  into 
the  eye  of  the  spring  and  the  other  end'  is  de- 
flected over  and  under  the  trap  pan.  By  moving 
it  out  towards  the  outer  part  of  the  pan  a  greater 
strength  and  resistance  can  be  obtained  —  les- 
>sening  by  pushing  it  the  contrary  way.  For 


How  TO  SET.  125 

beaver  or  otter  traps  we  usually  take  the  root  of 
a  small  spruce  or  tamarack,  and  for  a  bear  trap, 
instead  of  putting  one  end  into  the  eye  of  the 
spring,  we  cut  a  shorter  and  stouter  piece  and 
bend  it  over  like  this  and  it  is  placed  Under  the 
pan;  the  two  ends  are  carefully  flattened  and 
squared  off  to  prevent  slipping. 

After  a  little  practice  a  man  becomes  quite 
an  expert  as  to  the  proper  tension  required  and 
it  is  very  rarely  a  real  trapper  catches  anything 
but  what  the  trap  was  set  for.  This  article  is 
written  for  the  benefit  of  beginners  in  the  pro- 
fession of  trapping  and  not  as  a  reflection  on  the 
knowledge  of  "Old  Pards." 

A  splendid  all  around  covering  for  traps 
wherever  available  (and  I  speak  from  experi- 
ence) is  hemlock  fanlike  tips,  writes  a  New  York 
state  trapper.  Use  only  the  flat  spreading  ends 
with  thin  stems  to  blanket  trap  —  a  single  layer 
is  enough  for  all  practical  purposes.  This  is  the 
general  purpose  covering,  suitable  for  all  kinds 
of  weather.  The  strong  natural  Scent  of  the 
hemlock  seems  to  inspire  confidence,  overcoming 
animal  fear  and  caution.  It  neutralizes  and 
makes  harmless  all  unnatural  scents  so  obnox- 
ious to  wild  animals  and  prevents  under  pan  ob- 
struction. 

During  the  snowy  weather,  roof  over  the  trap 
with  brush,  hemlock  boughs,  bark  or  such,  with 


-}26  STEEL  TRAPS. 

openings  on  all  sides.  Build  the  roof  high  and 
wide  enough  to  sufficiently  protect  the  trap  and 
covering  from  snow  and  sleet.  A  good  trapper 
uses  only  good  traps. 

I  will  describe  a  few  of  my  sets  and  hope  they 
will  be  of  value,  writes  a  Rocky  Mountain  trap- 
per. The  first  will  be  a  mink  set  and,  like  the 
rest,  is  best  prepared  during  the  summer,  then 
by  the  time  trapping  begins  the  newsness  is  all 
gone. 

Set  No.  1  is  easily  made  by  bending  a  few 
green  willows  in  the  shape  of  the  letter  IT;  stick 
ihem  in  a  row  six  inches  apart  so  the  top  of  the 
bow  will  be  four  or  five  inches  from  the  level. 
Cut  some  brush  and  pile  on  top  and  a  stake  or 
two  driven  in  will  keep  it  from  going  away  in  a 
freshet.  This  can  be  made  in  the  water  at  a 
riffle  or  on  the  bank  of  the  stream  and  you  will 
be  surprised  to  note  the  fine  runway  you  have 
made. 

Set  No.  2  is  on  the  same  principle,  but  is 
made  of  logs  8  inches  in  diameter  and  5  or  6  feet 
long.  It  can  be  cut  on  the  dotted  lines  for  con- 
venience in  placing  bait.  Set  a  No.  1£  or  2  trap 
at  each  end.  This  is  as  good  as  a  hollow  log. 

No.  3  is  a  marten  shelf.  Like  cut,  make  by 
nailing  a  2-inch  stick  three  or  three  and  a  half 
feet  long  on  each  side  of  a  tree  and  cover  the 
projecting  ends  with  bark  —  use  a  weight  on 


How  TO  SET. 


127 


bark  to  keep  it  from  blowing  *nvay;  nail  bait 
and  place  trap  as  shown.  Use  a  spring  pole  of 
some  description. 

No.  4  is  my  favorite  for  bear,  mountain  lion 
and  in  fact  all  larger  game.  Choose  two  trees 
near  together  and  place  a  pole  from  one  to  the 
other  on  which  to  hang  the  bait;  1  is  bait  the 


THE    THREE    LOG    SET 

height  of  which  should  be  varied  according  to 
the  game  sought  and  2  is  the  pole  on  which  bait  is 
hung ;  it  can  be  nailed  on  or  laid  in  forks. 

In  setting  steel  traps  the  beginner  is  gener- 
ally very  careless.  He  simply  sets  his  trap  on 
the  bare  ground,  brushes  a  few  leaves  over  it  and 
stakes  it  fast,  or  staples  it  fast  to  a  stump  or 


128  STEEL  TRAPS. 

tree.  As  a  rule  he  finds  that  the  wind  has  blown 
the  leaves  off  his  trap,  leaving  it  bare,  or  it  has 
frozen  fast  to  the  ground,  or  if  it  has  made  a 
catch  the  game  has  escaped. 


MARTEN    SHELF   SET. 


In  setting  a  steel  trap,  dig  a  hole  an  inch 
deep  and  the  size  and  shape  of  the  trap  when 
set.  Line  this  hole  with  dry  leaves  and  set  the 
trap  in  it,  filling  in  between  the  jaws  with  dry 


How  TO  SET. 


moss  and  covering  with  dry,  light  substance  in 
keeping  with  the  surroundings. 

For  trapping  the  shyer  animals  the  smell  of 
iron  should  be  destroyed;  which  may  be  done  by 


BIG    GAME    SET. 


boiling  the  trap  in  cedar  or  hemlock  tips.  The 
trap  should  be  covered  with  these  tips  so  that 
trap  and  bed  all  smell  alike.  Do  not  make  anv 
tracks  or  have  the  tmsttes  or  garasss  trampled  down 
9 


STEEL  TRAPS. 

around  the  trap.  Animals  are  more  afraid  of 
human  signs  than  they  are  of  human  scent,  at 
least  I  have  found  it  so, 

In  setting  the  trap,  be  sure  that  the  jaws  lie 
down  solid  or  the  animal  may  tip  the  trap  ovei* 
by  stepping  on  a  jaw  and  you  will  think  that  yoii 
have  a  very  cunning  animal  to  deal  with. 

If  the  trap  is  set  at  a  den  or  enclosure,  turn 
the  spring  to  one  side  so  the  animal  will  not  step 
on  the  spring.  I  prefer  the  Blake  pattern  trap 
as  the  trap  may  be  set  with  the  spring  pointing 
straight  out  from  the  enclosure  and  the  animal 
steps  between  the  jaws,  not  over  them.  Be  sure, 
when  setting  at  a  den  or  covered  enclosure  that 
the  opening  over  the  trap  is  large  enough  to 
allow  the  animal  to  walk  over  the  trap,  for  if 
they  must  crawl  over  it  they  are  apt  to  snap  the 
trap  by  pressing  against  it  and  all  the  trapper 
finds  is  a  little  bunch  of  fur.  In  setting  traps 
on  dry  land  do  not  stake  it  down  as  the  game 
will  often  escape  by  pulling  its  foot  out  of  the 
trap.  It  is  much  better  to  fasten  the  trap  to  a 
brush  drag.  I  leave  a  good  stout  prong  near  the 
big  end  of  the  brush.  Bend  this  prong  down  and 
slip  the  ring  over  it. 

When  making  a  water  set  I  stake  the  trap 
into  the  water  full  length  of  the  chain.  If  the 
water  is  deep  use  the  sliding  pole.  If  you  are 
trapping  muskrats,  clean  out  all  snags  and  brush 


How  TO  SET.  131 

from  around  the  trap  or  the  rat  may  cut  its  skin 
in  its  struggles,  which  will  lessen  its  value. 

Here  is  a  method  of  drowning  the  beaver  and 
otter  which  was  told  me  by  an  old  trapper.  Take 
a  good  stout  wire  about  eight  or  ten  feet  long  and 
fasten  it  to  the  end  of  the  trap  chain.  A  heavy 
stone  is  tied  to  the  chain  of  the  trap  and  after 


RING  OR  LOOP  FASTENING. 

the  trap  is  set  the  wire  is  stretched  up  or  down 
stream  and  fastened  to  a  stake  driven  in  the 
bank  under  water.  When  the  game  is  caught  it 
plunges  into  the  water  and  the  weight  of  the 
stone  and  trap  pulls  it  down  to  the  bottom.  The 
trap  and  game  are  secured  by  pulling  up  on  the 
wire.  I  have  never  used  this  method,  but  think 
it  wo'uid  tte  all  right. 


JE32  STEEL  TRAPS. 

If  the  trap  is  a  "bolt"  double  spring,  place 
the  trap  on  the  knee  and  press  down  spring  and 
insert  a  nail  —  six  or  eight  penny  will  do  —  un- 
der the  jaw  on  the  opposite  side  from  the  trigger 
or  trip,  being  careful  to  insert  far  enough  to  hold 
and  not  slip  out.  Then  set  same  as  a  single 
spring  trap. 

If  the  trap  has  the  slip  in  jaws,  drill  a  small 
hole  in  the  bottom  piece  just  below  the  holes 
which  the  jaws  are  in  for  a  nail.  One  spring 
will  hold  the  pan  up.  When  set,  press  the  other 
spring  down  and  pull  out  the  nail.  One  trial 
will  convince  anyone  that  this  is  an  easy  and 
quick  way  to  set  a  double  spring  trap.  I  have 
never  tried  this  on  anything  larger  than  No.  4 
Avolf  trap.  Hundreds  of  times  have  I  said  things 
that  I  would  not  say  in  Church  or  Sunday  School 
while  setting  one  of  these  traps  in  the  snow. 
Trapper  language  will  come  forth  when  one 
pinches  his  fingers  on  a  cold,  frosty  morning. 


i 


CHAPTER  xvn. 

WHERE    TO    SET. 

NOWING  exactly  where  to  set 
in  all  cases  can  not  be  told 
unless  the  trapping  region  is 
seen  as  well  as  each  den,  but 
in  a  general  way  some  points 
can  be  given  that  will  prove  of 
value.  Favorable  places  to  set 
can  be  made  to  include  a  number 
of  situations.  By  this  we  mean  that  many  take 
a  good  part  of  their  catch  each  season  at  places 
away  from  the  dens  or  homes  of  animals.  Time 
and  again  have  we  seen  traps  set  along  creeks, 
in  the  woods,  at  drift  piles  and  other  places 
where  there  were  no  dens.  Yet  these  trappers 
knew  that  fur-bearing  animals  frequented  such 
places. 

A  trapper  always  should  be  on  the  outlook 
for  signs  of  game.  These  include  dung  at  dens, 
tracks  at  dens  and  along  creeks  and  low  wet 
places,  feathers  and  bones  at  dens,  etc.  A  close 
inspection  of  dens,  will  also  show  long  hairs,  if 
the  same  is  used  much  by  animals  just  before  the 
fur  begins  to  get  good,  as  they  then  shed  many 
of  the  long  hairs.  The  experienced  trapper 
knows  from  these  just  what  kind  of  an  animal 

133 


134 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


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WHERE  TO  SET.  135 

is  using  a  certain  den,  and  of  course  he  knows 
what  sized  trap  to  use  and  how  to  proceed  to 
set  the  same  for  the  capture  of  the  game. 

An  important  thing  for  all  trappers  to  learn 
is  to  distinguish  dens  used  by  fur-bearing  ani- 
mals from  those  of  rabbits,  etc.  This  can  be 
done  in  several  ways :  Long  hairs  of  skunk,  opos- 
sum, coon,  etc.,  are  frequently  found  in  the  en- 
trance to  dens;  tracks  of  these  and  other  ani- 
mals should  be  watched  for  ^  pieces  of  bones  and 
feathers  near  dens  is  also  a  good  indication  that 
game  is  in  the  near  vicinity  —  at  least  it  may 
be  known  that  it  has  been  there  quite  recently. 

There  is  as  much  in  knowing  the  locality  that 
game  frequents  as  there  is  in  how  to  set  traps. 
The  person  who  has  made  a  study  of  the  habits 
,of  fur-bearing  animals  knows  pretty  well  the 
locality  that  each  animal  frequents.  By  this  we 
jnean  that  he  knows  that  skunks,  in  the  fall,  are 
<often  found  in  open  fields,  in  sink  holes,  etc., 
while  later  in  the  season  they  are  found  on 
higher  land.  This  applies  to  the  hilly  sections 
in  particular.  Opossum  and  coon  he  knows  are 
apt  to  be  found  in  the  dense  woods,  and  mink 
along  streams  and  swamps. 

Trappers  who  have  long  lines  of  traps  will 
find  that  it  saves  time  and  walking  to  have  their 
traps  bunched ;  that  is,  where  they  set  one  trap, 
should  there  be  many  dens,  they  should  set  two 


136  STEEL  TRAPS. 

or  three  more.  After  doing  this  they  can  travel 
some  distance  before  setting  others,  unless  extra 
good  dens  are  found,  or  other  dens  directly  on 
their  route.  We  have  known  three  traps,  within 
100  feet  of  each  other  all  to  contain  game,  but 
this  is  an  exception.  More  often,  to  be  sure, 
they  are  all  empty  when  the  trapper  makes  his 
round.  Yet  it  often  pays  to  have  traps  bunched 


FOX    WOLF    OR    COYOTE    TRAIL. 

as  an  animal  may  go  to  several  dens  and  turn 
away  but  enter  another  only  a  few  feet  distant. 
The  trapper  who  has  only  a  few  traps  will  do 
best  by  scattering  them  and  baiting  each  trap. 

Along  some  bluff  there  may  be  a  score  or 
perhaps  a  hundred  dens,  and  to  set  a  trap  at 


FOX,    WOLF    OR    COYOTE    ON    THE    RUN. 

each  is  out  of  the  question,  with  the  trapper  who 
has  an  abundance  of  traps,  as  well  as  the  one 
who  has  only  a  few.  At  such  places  it  is  best 
to  set  your  traps  where  there  are  the  most  signs. 
Traps  set  here  should  be  baited  and  the  bait 
placed  back  in  the  den,  beyond  the  trap. 


WHERE  TO  SET.  137 

It  is  not  necessary  to  set  traps  in  the  dens 
to  catch  your  game,  altho  that  is  considered  one 
of  the  best  places,  for  some  animals  have  no  cer- 
tain dens,  but  hole  up  for  the  day,  wherever  day- 
light finds  them.  By  this  we  mean  they  enter 
the  first  den  they  find.  This  being  the  case,  trap- 
pers who  know  the  locality,  that  is  the  feeding- 
grounds  of  game,  are  most  successful.  Should 
you  set  your  trap  in  the  entrance  to  some  den 
and  no  animal  live  there  or  pass  that  way  there 
is  no  chance  of  being  rewarded  for  the  trouble. 

As  is  well  known,  most  fur-bearing  animals 
are  carnivorous,  feeding  on  flesh,  and  the  trap- 
per who  can  locate  the  place,  that  is  the  hunting 
grounds  of  the  game  he  is  trapping,  is  usually 
successful.  Along  creeks  in  the  mud  and  sand, 
look  for  mink  and  coon  tracks.  If  they  are 
found  often,  their  dens  are  not  far  off.  Both  of 
these  animals  are  much  given  to  traveling  along 
creeks  and  low  swampy  land  and  we  have  seen 
at  such  a  place  bait  nailed  to  a  tree,  some  two 
feet  from  the  ground,  and  a  trap  nicely  set  just 
beneath  it.  The  trap  too,  was  set  in  the  right 
place,  for  game  was  caught.  It  may  be  that  in 
your  trapping  rounds  you  will  come  to  a  den 
where  a  rabbit  or  some  bird  has  been  devoured. 
Often  you  find  that  it  has  been  eaten  close  to 
the  entrance.  Here  is  just  the  place  to  set  your 


138  STEEL  TRAPS. 

trap  for  if  the  animal  is  not  now  within  it  is  apt 
to  return 

The  various  sets  made  by  trappers  may  be 
divided  into  three  classes,  known  as  land,  water 
and  snow  sets,  altho  each  can  be  varied  to  suit 
different  cases.  The  land  set  is  used  for  all  land 
animals  and  includes  sets  made  at  dens  in  trails, 
paths,  etc. 


^    /7 

MUSKRAT   TRACKS. 

Snow  sets  are  largely  used  for  the  shyer  ani- 
mals such  as  fox  and  wolf  altho  trappers  use  this 
set  for  any  land  animal  when  they  think  con- 
ditions right.  Traps  when  set  for  foxes  and 
wolves  are  usually  set  just  before  a  snow  fall,  if 
the  trapper  is  enough  of  a  weather  prophet  to  do 
this. 


WHERE  TO  SET.  139 

The  water  set  is  used  mostly  for  otter,  beaver 
and  inuskrat.  Mink  and  raccoon  are  also  caught 
in  large  numbers  in  water  sets.  Fox  trappers  in 


v    \ff 

<*  ^r  *  ~  «  0 

/         *<* 

•^/ffi-sto*^-  *^fL«fa 


* 

MINK  AND  OPOSSUM  TRACKS. 

the  Northeast  catch  many  foxes  in  springs  at 
water  sets  before  hard  freezing  weather  sets  in. 
I  will  give  an  excellent  method  of  trapping 
animals  on  land  writes  an  Ohio  trapper.  Fasten 
your  bait  to  the  body  of  a  tree  about  a  foot  from 


140  STEEL  TRAPS. 

the  ground  and  near  a  den  or  other  place  fre- 
quented by  the  animals  you  want  to  catch.  Dig 
up  the  ground  at  the  foot  of  the  tree  and  cover 
the  loose  earth  with  leaves,  also  place  your  brush 
drag  near  the  tree  and  after  the  animal  begins 
to  eat  the  bait,  set  your  trap  right  under  it  and 
about  six  or  eight  inches  from  the  tree  and  fas- 
tening the  trap  to  the  brush  drag.  Eeplace  the 
leaves  over  the  trap  and  cover  the  chain  with 
leaves  or  dead  grass.  Do  not  disturb  anything 
around  the  trap  but  leave  the  drag,  etc.,  just  as 
it  was  before  the  trap  was  set. 

For  mink  fasten  the  bait  on  the  side  of  a  log, 
one  end  of  which  rests  in  the  water  and  the  other 
on  the  bank  of  the  stream.  The  bait  should  be 
at  least  ten  inches  from  the  ground.  Set  your 
traps  under  the  bait  and  staple  the  chain  to  the 
log.  The  first  mink  that  comes  along  will  pass 
under  the  log  and  stopping  to  investigate  the 
bait  will  get  his  toes  pinched.  The  best  covering 
for  this  set  is  dead  grass,  leaves  or  snow.  The 
best  bait  for  mink  is  the  head  of  a  fowl  or  a 
piece  of  fish  or  muskrat. 

About  trapping  mink  in  their  den;  first,  if 
you  find  a  den  where  a  mink  is  living,  says  a 
trapper,  don't  by  any  means  mash  the  brush  or 
grass  down  around  the  den  holes,  but  approach 
it  very  carefully  with  not  less  than  two  traps,  all 


141 


142  STEEL  TRAPS. 

set  and  ready  to  place  at  the  mouth  or  entrance 
of  the  den. 

Now  look  sharply  to  see  which  hole  the  mink 
uses  most.  You  can  tell  by  the  leaves  and  the 
grass  which  are  worn  to  a  sort  of  chaff  in  the 
mouth  or-entrance  of  the  den.  If  you  look  care- 
fully you  will  perhaps  see  three  or  five  holes. 
You  will  always  see  two  or  three  holes  larger 
than  any  of  the  rest.  The  smaler  holes  are  to 
escape  by  when  any  larger  animal  comes  into 
the  den. 

If  you  look  sharply  you  will  notice  a  few 
inches  from  one  of  the  holes  another  hole  which 
he  uses.  Well,  make  a  bed  and  place  your  trap 
deep  enough  to  be  covered  lightly,  just  in  front 
of  this  hole  and  so  that  your  trap  jaws  will  close 
lengthwise  with  the  hole  or  the  worn  path.  Never 
set  your  trap  crosswise  to  a  mink  hole  or  run. 
Always  drive  your  stake  level,  with  the  ground 
in  which  your  trap  is  set  if  possible.  Now  go  to 
the  hole  in  front  of  the  den  and  set  your  other 
trap  or  traps  in  the  same  manner,  make  just  as 
little  noise  as  possible  while  setting  the  traps 
and  when  leaving. 


CHAPTEE  XVIIL 

LOOKING  AT  TRAPS. 

T  is  known  to  secure  best  results, 
traps  should  be  looked  at  each 
day  and  the  earlier  in  the  morn- 
ing the  better.  A  trapper  who 
has  out  from  50  to  150  traps 
scattered  for  a  distance  of  ten, 
fifteen  or  twenty  miles  has  a  good 
day's  work  before  him,  but  the  trap- 
per who  has  only  a  few  should  make 
his  round  early  in  the  morning.  It 
may  be  that  an  animal  is  not  securely 
caught  and  an  early  visit  to  the  trap 
will  still  find  your  game  fast,  whereas  had  you 
waited  till  later  in  the  day  it  would  have  escaped. 
Some  trappers  are  inclined  to  believe  that 
certain  animals  gnaw  their  legs  off  when  caught. 
Our  belief,  after  years  of  experience,  is  that  if 
an  animal  is  caught  by  the  leg  after  some  hours 
the  flesh  below  the  jaws  of  the  trap  becomes 
numb  and  the  animal  begins  to  gnaw  it.  If  the 
bone  is  broken  by  the  force  of  the  jaws  closing, 
the  chances  are  that  the  animal  may  after  a  day 
or  so  escape.  If  the  bone  is  not  broken  there  is 

143 


u 

C/2 


P 

w 


144 


LOOKING  AT  TRAPS. 


145 


but  little  danger  of  the  game  getting  away.  The 
animal  gnaws  below  the  jaws,  very  seldom  above. 
One  mistake  that  many  trappers  make  is  that 
on  the  first  stormy  or  cold  night  of  a  prolonged 
cold  spell,  they  neglect  their  traps  until  warm 
weather.  Experienced  trappers  never  do  this; 


SNOWSHOETNG    OVER    THE    TRAPPING    LINE. 

they  know  that  the  first  night  of  a  cold  spell  all 
animals  are  generally  much  more  active  than 
usual  — they  are  hunting  food  and  a  good  den. 
It  seems  that  the  fur-bearing  animals  are  fore- 
warned about  the  weather,  or  that  instinct  has 
endowed  them  with  this  power.  At  any  rate  they 
are  on  the  alert  the  first  night  before  a  prolonged 
10 


146  STEEL  TRAPS. 

cold  spell,  and  on  just  such  nights  the  largest 
catches  are  usually  made.  A  night  that  starts 
in  only  fairly  cold  and  later-turns  quite  cold  - 
the  beginning  of  a  severe  spell  —  is  the  night 
that  the  professional  likes  to  see,  or  at  any  rate, 
he  is  out  to  his  traps  at  the  first  sign  of  day. 

In  the  dead  of  winter  it  may  be  of  little  use 
to  look  at  traps  for  most  game.  Altho  some  ani- 
mals, such  as  the  mink,  fox  and  weasel,  do  not 
hole  up  on  account  of  cold  weather.  Skunks 
have  been  known  to  remain  in  their  dens  for 
eight  weeks  in  winter.  Several  cases  are  on  rec- 
ord where  these  animals  have  been  tracked  to 
their  dens,  all  entrances  closed,  traps  set  within 
and  no  catch  made  for  eight  .weeks. 

In  the  Northern  sections  these  animals  hole 
up  in  December  and  remain  there  until  early  in 
February,  unless  there  is  a  very  warm  spell.  In 
other  sections,  in  the  South,  they  continue  active 
throughout  the  entire  season.  In  the  Middle  and 
Central  States  this  animal  remains  in  its  den 
during  severe  weather  only.  At  other  times 
skunks  have  been  known  to  remain  in  their  dens 
for  a  month,  but  in  such  cases  the  animal  has 
perhaps  gone  in  on  a  rabbit,  killed  it  and  is  liv- 
ing off  its  carcass. 

Where  the  trapper  is  after  otter,  beaver,  and 
muskrat,  and  his  sets  are  made  with  the  sliding 
pole  or  with  a  wire  fastened  to  end  of  chain  lead- 


LOOKING  AT  TRAPS. 


147 


ing  to  deep  water  so  that  the  animal  is  drowned, 
the  traps  need  not  be  looked  at  daily,  for  the 
game  is  dead  and  under  water,  in  which  condi- 
tion the  fur  will  not  be  injured  for  some  days. 
Mink  and  coon  are  also  caught  in  water  sets, 


ONCE   OVER   THE   LINE  —  WHITE   WEASEL. 

and  should  be  drowned  by  using  the  same  fasten- 
ings as  for  the  water  animals.  It  is  a  good  idea 
to  tie  a  weight  to  chain  near  the  trap,  so  that 
when  the  animal  is  caught  and  gets  into  deep 
water,  the  additional  weight  helps  to  hold  it 
down  and  so  of  course  it  drowns  sooner. 


148  STEEL 

Spring  poles  are  used  in  many  of  the  North- 
ern States  and  Canada,  so  that  when  an  animal 
is  caught  it  is  lifted  several  feet  into  the  air  and 
out  of  reach  of  other  animals,  but  in  other  sec- 
tions the  spring  pole  is  little  used  and  trappers 
should  get  over  their  lines  of  traps  as  often  as 
possible,  for  there  is  always  more  or  less  danger 
of  the  animal  escaping  or  being  destroyed  by 
larger  game. 

The  most  successful  trappers  are  those  who 
visit  their  traps  often.  In  addition  to  loosing 
little  or  no  fur  after  once  being  caught,  they  keep 
their  "sets"  in  good  condition. 

The  experienced  trapper  knows  that  the  first 
night  before  severe  weather  each  winter,  his  traps 
are  much  more  liable  to  contain  game  than  on 
almost  any  other  night.  Why  is  this?  Animal 
instinct  tells  the  animal  that  winter  weather  is 
coming,  and  they  travel  much  more  just  previous 
to  cold  snaps  hunting  food  and  good  warm  dens. 
At  this  time,  too,  they  go  into  most  any  den  to 
explore  it.  Some  trappers  neglect  their  traps 
the  first  cold  night.  This  is  a  mistake,  for  the 
animal  often  travels  the  first  night  of  a  cold  spell 
as  well  as  the  night  previous.  Of  course  they 
do  not  travel  as  much  the  first  cold  night  as  the 
night  previous,  but  some  animals  not  suited  with 
the  den  found,  stir  around  another  night  looking 
for  better  quarters. 


LOOKING  AT  TRAPS. 


149 


150  STEEL  TRAPS. 

This  rule  perhaps  does  not  hold  good  for 
such  animals  as  fox,  mink,  marten  and  other 
fur-bearers  that  keep  traveling  most  nights  dur- 
ing the  winter,  no  matter  how  severe  the  weather, 
but  with  such  animals  as  skunk,  coon,  opossum^ 
niuskrat,  etc.,  it  does.  The  first  night  of  a  cold 
spell  early  in  the  season  and  the  first  night  of  a 
warm  spell  during  the  winter,  trappers  should 
have  their  traps  in  good  order. 

Many  trappers,  as  soon  as  the  trapping  sea- 
son opens,  set  traps  for  all  kinds  of  fur-bearing 
animate  that  are  found  on  their  grounds.  This 
as  a  rule  is  a  mistake.  Skunk  and  muskrat 
should  be  taken  first,  from  the  fact  that  skunks 
den  up  with  the  first  severe  weather  and  muskrat 
are  hid  under  the  ice.  So  trap  these  animals  in 
earnest  at  the  first  of  the  season. 

On  the  other  hand,  mink  and  fox  travel  the 
coldest  nights  in  midwinter  as  well  as  the  warm 
ones;  in  fact,  these  two  animals  are  most  suc- 
cessfully trapped  when  some  of  the  other  fur- 
bearers  are  denned  up.  Coon,  however,  should 
also  be  trapped  rather  early,  as  they  den  up  early 
in  the  season,  although  they  come  out  on  warm 
nights.  By  February  15th  skunk  are  usually 
running  again.  This  applies  to  central  sections. 
Of  course  North  and  South,  the  conditions  vary. 
In  the  extreme  south  the  animals  keep  going  all 


LOOKING  AT  TRAPS.  151 

winter,  while  in  the  far  North  some  den  up  for 
many  months. 

Trappers  must  use  their  judgment  what  to 
trap  first,  depending  somewhat  upon  the  num- 
ber of  trappers  in  their  section.  The  above  is 
meant  for  the  trapper  who  is  stationed  for  a  full 
season  at  the  same  place.  Of  course  the  trapper 
who  is  moving,  often  takes  any  and  all  animals 
he  can  if  the  fur  is  pome. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

MYSTERIOUSLY  SPRUNG  TRAPS. 

Wjtf    N  determining  the  length  of  time  to 
have  a  trap  set  depends  largely  upon 
|||        how  many  other  traps  you  have  in 
^•f        the  vicinity  and  what  success  you  are 
Jap  BP0    having  with  them.     It  may  be  that  a 
trap  will  remain  at  a  den  for  two 
weeks  unsprung  and  during  the  next  two  weeks 
catch  two  or  three  animals.    Other  traps  may  be 
sprung  occasionally  and  not  contain  game,  but 
if  the  trapper  has  followed  instructions  as  pre- 
viously given  there  should  be  little  difficulty  in 
catching  each  and  every  animal  that  comes  after 
the  bait.     The  trap  should  have  the  animal  the 
first  time  it  attempts  to  steal  the  bait,  but  of 
Bourse  it  cannot  be  expected  to  every  time.     A 
good  trapper  will  get  the  animal,  however,  be- 
fore it  fools  with  the  bait  many  times. 

If,  on  visiting  a  trap,  you  find  the  bait  gone, 
replace  it  and  set  the  trap  as  before.  The 
chances  are  that  on  the  next  visit  of  the  ani- 
mal it  will  get  caught.  Should,  on  the  second 
visit,  the  bait  be  gone  and  the  trap  unsprung, 
the  chances  are  that  the  animal  is  still  in  the 
den  and  is  stealing  the  bait  from  within,  without 
stepping  over  the  trap.  In  this  case,  either  place 

152 


MYSTERIOUSLY  SPRUNG  TRAPS.          153 

the  bait  on  the  outside  of  trap  or  not  use  any 
bait  for  a  few  nights.  The  animal  will  most 
likely  soon  venture  out,  if  you  quit  feeding  it, 
and  will  get  caught. 

The  ideas  advanced  by  some  that  animals 
spring  traps  after  turning  them  over,  with  their 


BAIT    STEALER  — BIRD. 

noses  or  paws,  is  all  nonsense.  It  may  be  pos- 
sible that  they  do  step  over  the  trap  and  knock 
it  off  with  their  body,  thus  not  getting  caught. 
Such  cases  are  rare,  however.  You  have  no 
doubt  visited  your  trap  and  found  a  few  hairs 
in  it.  On  such  occasions  it  was  probably  knocked 


154  STEEL  TRAPS. 

off  by  the  body  of  the  animal.  It  may  be  possi- 
ble that  animals  have  turned  traps  over  in  their 
endeavors  to  get  bait  with  their  nose  or  paw, 
but  you  can  rest  assured  that  they  did  not  know 
by  so  doing  that  it  lessened  the  chance  of  getting 
caught.  If  you  can  induce  an  animal  to  come 
and  get  the  bait  there  is  no  doubt  but  that  you 
will  catch  your  game  sooner  or  later. 

In  regard  to  traps  being  sprung,  it  is  possible 
they  are  set  too  easy,  and  go  off  of  their  own 
accord,  after  the  trapper  has  left  them.  Again 
they  may  work  too  hard,  not  going  off  easy 
enough.  All  these  things  the  trapper  should 
guard  against.  If  the  trap  has  been  properly 
set  there  will  be  no  trouble  from  the  source  just 
named,  and  traps  once  set  the  trapper  should 
keep  away  from,  as  far  as  possible  when  making 
his  rounds,  unless  they  are  sprung,  the  bait  gone 
or  contain  game. 

Should  traps  be  sprung  morning  after  morn- 
ing without  catching  the  animal  it  is  possible 
that  if  you  move  the  trap,  or  better  still  leave 
the  one  as  before  and,,  set  another,  you  will  be 
rewarded.  Sometimes  an  animal  will  manage  to 
get  bait  without  getting  caught.  At  other  times 
it  may  get  bait  without  knocking  off  the  trap. 
At  such  times  the  bait  is  too  near  the  trap  most 
likely,  the  animal  reaching  it  without  stepping 
over  the  trap,  or  if  the  trap  has  not  been  prop- 


MYSTERIOUSLY  SPRUNG  TRAPS.          155 

erly  set  the  animal  may  be  going  around  the 
trap. 

Just  how  long  a  trap  should  be  left  at  one 
place  if  not  bothered  is  hard  to  say  as  so  many 
things  bear  upon  the  question ;  if  the  weather  is 
cold  and  few  animals  moving  they  should  be  left 
much  longer  than  if  good  trapping  weather.  If 
the  den  has  been  a  good  one  other  years,  that  is, 
if  you  have  caught  game  there,  then  leave  longer 
than  if  you  never  caught  anything  there.  If 
other  traps  are  making  catches  near,  leave  as 
long  as  you  are  trapping  there  unless  you  find 
a  much  better  looking  den  near  and  have  no  trap 
with  you,  then  take  this  one. 

When  traps  are  sprung  and  pulled  back  into 
the  den  as  far  as  the  chain  will  allow  them  to 
go,  the  chances  are  that  the  animals  is  still  in 
the  den.  On  the  other  hand,  if  the  trap  is 
dragged  to  the  outside  the  game  is  liable  to  have 
gone  away.  In  either  case  it  will  likely  be 
around  again  in  a  few  nights,  as  having  once  got 
a  meal  it  will  not  be  slow  to  make  another  visit. 
If  the  animal  was  caught  and  only  escaped  after 
prolonged  struggles  is  may  not  return  for  some 
time  and  possibly  not  at  all.  Yet  when  a  trap  is 
set  and  fastened  as  directed,  few  animals  when 
once  caught  escape.  Here  is  where  proper  fas- 
tening comes  into  use;  if  the  trap  had  a  fairly 
good  hold  on  the  animal  and  the  trap  was  staked 


156 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


m- 


NORTHERN   TRAPPER   WITH   PACK   BASKET. 


MYSTERIOUSLY  SPRUNG  TRAPS. 


157 


feolid  the  game  might  have  escaped  but  would  be 
so  badly  injured  and  frightened  that  it  might 
never  return. 


SOME    NORTHERN    FURS. 


When  fastened  properly  to  a  bush  or  light 
drag,  the  game  rarely  escapes  even  though  the 
trap  has  only  a  toe  hold,  unless  the  trapper  is 
days  in  making  the  rounds.  Should  an  animal 


158  STEEL  TRAPS. 

escape  when  only  slightly  injured  it  is  apt  to 
soon  return. 

In  many  cases  where  game  has  escaped  after 
once  being  caught  it  is  not  the  fault  of  the  trap 
but  of  the  trapper.  Should  the  bone  in  the  ani- 
mal's  leg  be  broken  and  after  days  of  endeavor- 
ing the  animal  frees  itself  there  should  be  no 
blame  attached  to  the  trap,  the  fault  is  with  the 
trapper  —  he  should  have  visited  the  trap  sootier. 

Many  trappers  believe  that  animals  become 
so  sharp  that  they  will  turn  traps  over.  This 
we  hardly  believe.  At  the  same  time  trappers 
have  set  traps  upside  down  ^md  caught  the  ani- 
mals. This,  perhaps?  is  accounted  for  from  the 
fact  that  the  animal  in  reaching  for  bait  would 
turn  the  trap.  It  is  usually  the  case  that  ani- 
mals will  go  about  getting  bait  in  a  certain  man- 
ner and  the  changing  of  location  of  trap  may  be 
the  means  of  making  a  catch. 

Some  years  ago  when  trapping  mink,  I  vis- 
ited a.  certain  deadfall  that  was  "down"  each 
morning  and  the  bait  eaten.  The  trap  was  reset 
and  rebaited  each  time  for  perhaps  a  week,  even 
after  making  the  pen  smaller  and  the  trap  easier 
to  go  off,  it  continued  to  be  down  and  bait 
gone.  By  this  time  I  was  anxious,  and  taking  a 
No.  1  steel  trap  I  carefully  set  it  on  the  inside 
of  the  pen,  covered  it  well  and  rebaited  the  dead- 


MYSTERIOUSLY  SPRUNG  TRAPS.          159 

fall.    On  my  round  the  next  morning  neither  the 
trap  nor  bait  were  disturbed. 

The  second  morning  the  deadfall  was  down 
and  in  the  steel  trap  was  a  small  mink  —  the 
smallest  I  ever  caught.  This  accounted  for  the 
animal  being  able  to  get  inside  the  pen  and  eat 
the  bait.  It  was  so  small  that  when  the  log  fell 
its  body  was  entirely  inside  the  fall.  I  hardly 
think  that  small  mink,  which  was  less  than  a 
year  old,  knew  that  it  would  get  caught  unless 
it  was  inside  the  fall,  but  its  size  was  such  that 
it  could  easily  get  out  of  danger,  and  each  time 
it  ate  the  bait  it  was  in  the  same  position  on  the 
inside. 


CHAPTER  xx. 

GOOD  DENS. 

OME  trappers  as  soon  as  they  have 
caught  one  animal  remove  their 
trap  thinking  that  there  is  no 

longer  any  use  to  leave  it  at  that  den. 

While  this  may  sometime  hold  good 
in  case  of  large  game,  such  as  bear,  panther,  etc., 
it  does  not  with  most  animals ;  in  fact,  there  are 
certain  dens  where  trappers  each  season  take 
from  two  to  five  or  even  more  animals.  In  the 
case  of  the  larger  game  even  they  seem  to  scent 
your  bait  and  two  bears  and  occasionally  more 
have  been  caught  at  the  same  place  within  a  few 
days. 

The  fact,  as  a  rule,  that  you  have  caught  one 
animal  in  a  den,  should  not  cause  you  to  remove 
your  trap.  The  more  animals  caught  at  the 
same  den  the  better.  There  is  a  reason  why  cer- 
tain dens  are  the  favorite  homes  of  animals.  It 
may  be  because  they  are  dry  and  warm,  that 
there  is  a  nice  bed  of  leaves,  etc.  At  any  rate, 
trappers  know  that  certain  dens  are  valuable  — 
that  each  season  there  are  animals  living  there 
—  it  making  no  difference  how  many  have  been 
caught  the  previous  winter.  At  such  dens  it  will 
pay  to  leave  your  traps  all  the  season,  that  is, 

160 


GOOD  DEN'S. 


161 


- 
W 


W 


11 


162  STEEL  TRAPS. 

if  you  have  other  traps  that  are  catching  game 
in  the  vicinity.  Of  course  it  would  not  pay  to 
leave  one  trap  set  if  you  did  not  have  others 
within  a  short  distance.  As  a  rule  where  there  is 
one  good  den  of  this  kind  there  are  others  in  the 
vicinity,  so  that  you  do  not  want  to  remove  from 
that  certain  section. 

It  often  happens  that  two  trappers  trap  dur- 
ing the  season  on  the  same  ground,  one  in  the 
fall  and  the  other  later  in  the  season.  The  sec- 
ond one  has  often  taken  more  game  than  the 
first  in  the  same  length  of  time.  Both  were  con- 
sidered good  trappers  and  of  equal  experience. 
This  only  goes  to  show  that  you  never  know  when 
all  the  game  is  caught ;  in  fact,  it  never  is,  for 
if  such  was  the  case  there  would  be  nothing  left 
to  catch  another  season,  yet  when  another  season 
arrives  the  game  is  apparently  about  as  numer- 
ous as  ever. 

This  shows  that  good  dens  should  be  looked 
up  by  trappers,  if  in  new  trapping  grounds  to 
them,  before  the  season  opens.  The  best  time 
to  look  for  signs  is  in  the  fall,  yet  many  a  good 
den  has  been  discovered  by  tracking  animals  in 
the  snow  to  their  burrow.  These  extra  good 
dens  are  usually  located  on  high  grounds,  at 
least  not  in  swamps  or  very  low  land.  It  is  true, 
however,  that  on  low  land  and  along  sinks  and 
damp  places  there  is  good  trapping  early  in  the 


GOOD  DENS. 


163 


^ 

o 


1 


8 


164  STEEL  TRAPS. 

season,  but  as  a  rule  animals  hunt  higher  and 
drier  sections  before  the  extreme  cold  weather 
comes.  This  being  true  the  best  dens  are  most 
always  found  on  high  and  dry  ground.  Another 
proof  of  this  is  the  fact  that  when  large  numbers 
of  skunk  are  dug  out  of  a  den  it  is  nearly  al- 
ways on  high  and  dry  land. 

That  there  are  many  excellent  dens  along 
rocky  bluffs,  sandy  hill  sides,  and  other  like 
places,  the  experienced  trapper  knows.  He  also 
knows  that  along  the  low  land  in  early  fall  is 
good  trapping.  Mink  and  coon  are,  of  course, 
to  be  caught  along  streams  at  all  times.  It  is 
not  necessary  to  state  even  to  the  amateur  if 
muskrat,  beaver  and  otter  are  what  the  trapper 
is  after,  that  along  streams  is  the  only  place 
to  make  a  success. 

Days  spent  early  in  the  season  looking  up 
dens  where  hairs,  bones,  feathers,  dung,  etc., 
are  to  be  seen,  are  days  well  spent,  for  many 
times  has  a  trapper  set  traps  at  dens  where  with- 
in a  few  hundred  yards  were  many  better  ones, 
but  not  being  acquainted  with  the  locality,  he 
overlooked  these  until  a  snow  came.  Then  he 
tracked  an  animal  which  led  him  to  the  dens, 
otherwise  he  perhaps  would  not  have  discovered 
them  at  all.  Keep  your  eye  open  at  all  times 
for  good  dens.  That  a  large  number  of  animals 
were  caught  at  a  certain  den  last  winter  is  evi- 


GOOD  "DENS.  165 

dence  that  that  certain  den  is  just  the  kind  of  a 
burrow  they  want. 

It  may  be  that  you  caught  all  the  animals 
that  lived  there  the  winter  before,  but  others 
have  been  raised  since.  These  on  their  wanders 
for  food  have  found  the  den  and  have  found,  like 
their  relatives  of  the  winter  before,  that  it  was 
just  what  they  wished,  hence  they,  too,  have  re- 
turned for  the  winter. 

At  any  rate,  a  den  that  is  good  one  seasorfc 
is  worth  more  to  the  professional  trapper  than 
one  that  has  never  before  showed  signs.  Or  in 
other  words,  if  he  has  only  one  trap  left  and 
discovers  a  new  den  apparently  as  good  as  the 
one  where  the  winter  before  he  made  such  good 
catches,  you  may  rest  assured  that  he  will  set 
his  trap  at  the  old  den.  It  is  possible  that  not 
a  single  animal  will  be  caught  this  season  at 
the  den  where  such  good  catches  were  made  last 
season,  but  this  is  an  exception  rather  than  the 
rule. 

Old  trappers  will  tell  you  that  they  caught  so 
many  animals  at  this  den  in  a  certain  season,  so 
many  the  next,  etc.  Perhaps  more  skunk  have 
been  caught  at  one  den  in  a  single  season  than 
any  other  animal.  The  catching  of  ten  or  twelve 
at  a  place  is  no  uncommon  occurrence  in  a  sea- 
son. There  are  a  few  cases  on  record  where  trap- 
pers have  caught  as  high  as  fifteen,  and  one  in- 


166 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


BOTH     TRAPPERS  -  FATHER    AND     DAUGHTER. 


GOOD  DENS. 


Stance  that  we  know  of,  where  seventeen  were 
caught  at  one  den  from  November  to  March  10th. 
This  was  certainly  a  remarkable  catch. 

Old  trappers  will  also  tell  you  that  signs  are 
what  you  should  look  for  at  all  times.  These  are 
not  only  found  at  dens,  but  by  watching  every- 
where ;  signs  found  in  the  woods  often  cause  the 
trapper  to  hunt  for  dens  which  are  often  close 
by.  Good  dens  are  not  at  all  hard  to  tell  by  the 
experienced  trapper,  and  if  you  are  a  young 
trapper  and  can  induce  some  experienced  trap- 
per to  let  you  make  the  rounds  with  him  or  pay 
him  to  spend  a  day  or  two  with  you,  it  will  be 
to  your  advantage. 

During  the  summer  months  when  you  are 
running  around  through  the  fields  and  woods 
fishing  and  hunting  and  having  a  good  time, 
then  is  the  time  to  start  the  foundation  for  the 
coming  season's  trapping  .  Always  be  on  the 
lookout  for  signs  and  learn  to  read  Nature's  writ- 
ings. Then  when  the  trapping  season  opens, 
you  will  know  exactly  where  to  set  your  traps 
and  you  will  be  far  ahead  of  the  other  fellow 
that  has  waited  till  the  season  opens  before  look- 
ing over  the  grounds. 

I  am  glad  to  see  an  awakening  of  the  trapper 
for  the  protection  of  fur-bearing  animals  during 
the  summer  months  when  the  fur  is  unprime; 
also,  the  protection  of  the  animal  dens.  In  the 


168  STEEL  TRAPS. 

June  number  of  H-T-T,  writes  an  Iowa  trapper, 
I  called  trappers'  attention  to  Johnny  Dig-em- 
out  and  his  destructive  method  of  trapping,  and 
I  think  every  trapper  that  has  trapped  in  a 
thickly  settled  country  will  bear  me  out  when  I 
say  he  has  lots  to  do  with  the  disappearance  of 
the  fur-bearing  animals.  I  will  cite  you  to  the 
buffalo  for  instance;  years  ago  the  plains  were 
covered  with  them,  but  after  the  hide  hunters 
had  gotten  in  their  work  for  a  few  years  the  buf- 
falo was  a  thing  of  the  past.  So,  brother,  let  us 
take  heed  before  it  is  too  late,  or  the  time  will 
soon  come  when  trapping  in  the  older  settled 
parts  of  the  country  will  be  a  very  unprofitable 
business. 

Ten  years  ago  in  this  part  of  the  country, 
skunk  were  very  plentiful;  it  was  a  very  poor 
farm  indeed  that  did  not  contain  at  least  one 
skunk  den,  but  now  they  are  about  as  scarce  a 
fur-bearer  as  we  have.  The  Dig-eni-outs  will 
ask,  "Does  it  pay  to  trap  skunk  when  you  find 
a  den?"  I  say  "Yes."  Eight  or  ten  years  ago  I 
tracked  a  skunk  into  a  den.  I  trapped  three 
skunks  in  as  many  nights  from  that  den,  and 
since  then  I  have  probably  taken  twenty-five 
from  the  same  place,  and  the  den  is  in  good  con- 
dition yet,  and  each  winter  I  know  where  to  go 
to  get  skunk.  Brother,  did  it  pay  to  leave  that 
den?  Some  say  it  is  too  slow  work  to  trap  out 


GOOD  DENS.  169 

a  skunk  den ;  I  will  tell  you  a  quick  way  that  I 
have  tried  with  success.  Build  three  or  four 
pens  near  the  den,  put  a  bait  in  each  pen  and  a 
trap  at  the  entrance  of  each.  I  have  caught  as 
high  as  three  in  a  night  from  one  den,  that  way. 
Now  trappers,  let  us  strive  the  coming  sea- 
son, to  protect  the  homes  of  our  fur-bearers,  so 
we  can  enjoy  the  pleasures  and  profits  of  trap- 
ping in  the  years  to  come.  Let  us  take  the  fel- 
low that  digs  out  the  dens  aside  and  give  him 
a  little  good  advice  and  show  him  where  he  is 
working  against  his  own  good.  Many  of  them 
are  nice  fellows,  but  simply  a  little  thoughtless 
about  the  future  of  these  animals. 


CHAPTER  xxl. 

THE    PROPER   BAIT. 

>HILE  baiting  traps  is  not  necessary 
when  trapping  at  dens,  yet  the 
trapper  who  baits  his  traps  will 
catch  more  game  than  if  the  traps 
were  not  baited.  To  show  where  a 
baited  trap  has  the  advantage,  we 
will  suppose  that  an  animal  passes  a  den  where 
a  trap  is  set  but  not  baited.  It  is  just  as  a  no- 
tion takes  the  animal  —  it  may  pay  a  visit  to 
the  den  and  go  in,  and  again  it  may  not.  If  a 
trap  is  baited  the  chances  are  that  if  the  animal 
passes  within  a  few  feet,  it  will  reach  the  bait. 
Bait,  whether  bird,  fish,  chicken,  beef  offals 
or  rabbit,  should  be  fresh  for  most  animals. 
When  trapping  at  dens  the  bait  should  be  stuck 
on  a  short  stick,  so  as  to  keep  it  off  the  ground, 
and  placed  back  in  the  den,  beyond  the  trap  some 
eighteen  inches  or  two  feet.  Should  the  bait  be 
gone  morning  after  morning  and  the  trap  un- 
sprung, your  game  is  pretty  sure  to  be  still  in 
the  den  and  living  off  your  bait.  In  this  case 
it  will  be  a  good  idea  to  change  and  place  the 
bait  on  the  outside.  If  the  animal  is  getting  the 

170 


THE  PROPER  BAIT. 


171 


172  STEEL  TRAPS. 

bait  from  within,  you  are  pretty  sure  to  make  a 
catch  within  a  few  nights. 

If  trapping  in  the  woods  for  coon  or  along 
streams,  where  they  travel,  a  piece  of  bait  nailed 
to  a  tree,  some  two  feet  from  the  ground,  and  a 
trap  set  directly  under  it  is  not  a  bad  set.  For 
mink,  bait  can  be  suspended  from  a  branch,  tied 
by  a  string,  to  within  say  two  feet  of  the  ground. 
To  set  a  trap  directly  beneath  the  bait  if  prop- 
erly done  and  near  where  these  animals  travel, 
is  a  good  way  to  take  them. 

The  methods  used  by  some  trappers  of  plac- 
ing bait  on  the  pan  of  the  trap  should  never  be 
employed.  An  animal  in  reaching  for  the  bait 
will  spring  the  trap  with  its  nose,  and  unless  the 
trap  is  a  very  large  one,  not  get  caught.  The  cor- 
rect place  to  put  bait  is  where  an  animal  in 
reaching  for  it,  will  be  apt  to  get  one  of  its  fore 
feet  in  the  trap.  The  way  to  do  this  can  be  told 
by  a  little  study  before  setting  the  trap.  If  the 
animal  you  are  trapping  is  a  small  one  the  bait 
should  not  be  placed  so  far  beyond  the  trap  as 
for  a  larger  one. 

Should  you  find  the  bait  gone  when  visiting 
your  traps,  replace  it  at  once  and  see  that  your 
trap  is  all  right,  In  nine  cases  out  of  ten,  the 
animal  will  be  around  again  in  a  night  or  two 
for  another  meal.  Persevere  and  you  will  get 


THE  PROPER  BAIT.  173 

your  game  sooner  or  later.  Seeing  that  your 
traps  are  kept  properly  baited  is  an  important 
item ;  also,  keeping  bait  as  fresh  as  possible.  Af- 
ter the  bait  has  been  at  a  trap  for  a  week  if  it 
has  not  been  molested,  it  is  best  to  replace  with 
something  fresh.  Do  not  throw  the  old  bait 
away,  either  hang  it  up,  out  of  reach  of  animals 
or  carry  it  away  from  the  den.  If  you  have 
plenty  of  fresh  bait,  it  will  pay  to  replace  oftener 
than  once  a  week. 

If  you  have  a  large  quantity  of  fresh  bait  and 
have  more  than  you  can  use  to  advantage,  on 
your  traps,  it  can  be  made  use  of,  by  cutting  into 
small  pieces  and  testing  a  number  of  dens.  By 
this  we  mean  putting  a  small  piece  of  bait  at 
dens  you  think  are  good  or  show  some  sign  of 
game,  but  at  "which  you  have  no  traps.  In  a  few 
days,  visit  these  dens  again  and  at  all  where  the 
bait  is  gone,  rebait  and  set  a  trap.  This  is  a 
very  good  method  and  has  helped  many  a  trap- 
per to  increase  his  catch. 

Most  trappers  do  not  take  into  consideration 
the  keen  scent  of  the  animal  they  hope  to  vic- 
timize. To  know  how  to  set  a  trap  properly  is 
far  from  all  in  the  line  of  success.  To  know 
your '"critter"  at  every  turn  he  may  make  and 
to  entice  him  from  his  wonted  way  by  means 
that  challenges  his  cunning  through  his  appe- 


174  STEEL  TRAPS. 

tite  and  yet  overcome  that  suspicion  of  place 
and  the  circumstances  of  immediate  surround- 
ings is  the  real  acme  of  trappers'  art. 

To  place  a  bait  anywhere  above  the  trap  is 
well  enough  for  an  animal  of  less  cunning  than 
a  fox.  But  to  challenge  that  cunning  in  a  fox, 
better  way  is  to  bury  the  bait.  The  proper  way 
to  go  about  it  is  to  make  a  trail  by  dragging 
through  the  brush  or  thicket  a  hare,  squirrel  or 
bird,  and  at  the  proper  distances  along  this  blind 
trail,  strew  the  feathers  of  some  bird,  or  make 
a  bed  for  your  bait,  no  trap  being  set,  until  you 
"take  the  sign"  of  one  of  your  varmints. 

Notice  well  the  approaches  to  your  intended 
"set."  To  be  sure  of  your  game,  you  must  notice 
the  "run"  of  more  than  one  animal  at  a  given 
place  but  the  buried  bait  must  be  adhered  to 
thruout  your  whole  line.  A  bait,  to  my  experi- 
ence is  more  attractive  when  it  is  out  of  sight 
but  so  placed  that  your  critter  must  work  to 
reach  it,  in  common  phrase  "root  hog,  or  die/7 
By  this  means  the  cunning  of  your  victim  is  cast 
aside  in  its  endeavor.  Much  depends  on  the  pa- 
tience of  the  trapper  and  his  real  handiwork. 
Where  a  set  of  this  kind  is  made  or  contem- 
plated, the  presence  of  a  few  feathers  ai*£  the 
prime  requisites.  Make  it  appear  that  a  carnival 
of  flesh  has  taken  place  and  that  the  spared  rem- 
nants lie  buried  just  beneath.  Drawing  on  your 


THE  PROPER  BAIT. 


175 


W 
W 
tzj 

H 

» 


H 

n 


176  STEEL  TRAPS. 

game  in  this  belief  for  some  time  before  making 
a  set,  is  the  proper  caper. 

If  you  can  procure  an  ancient  egg  you  have 
the  tid  bit  for  any  varmint  that  may  hit  your 
track.  You  perhaps  have  heard  much  about  the 
so-called  "scents"  or  oils.  They  in  a  way  are 
good  to  disguise  the  dreaded  human  odor,  but 
may  well  be  dispensed  with  and  some  are  en- 
tirely out  of  place.  Time  will  obliterate  any  and 
all  human  odor,  providing  you  use  your  imple- 
ments with  tact  and  good  judgment,  your  bait 
will  keep  and  it  will  draw  better  a  day  or  two 
after  the  first  set.  I  never  could  teach  any  one 
much  unless  he  went  along  the  line  with  me. 
Trapping  is  a  profession  and  not  every  one  is  by 
nature  adapted  for  it,  but  some  take  to  it  as 
natural  as  a  duck  to  water. 

I  get  three  or  four  dead  chickens  and  start 
out.  I  place  them  along  the  bank  and  usually 
tie  them  to  some  small  tree  so  that  the  head  will 
about  reach  the  ground.  I  never  build  a  pen 
around  them.  I  wait  until  something  get  to  eat- 
ing them,  and  then  I  take  a  trap  and  place  it 
directly  in  front  of  where  it  has  been  eaten,  and 
use  more  traps  if  necessary.  I  have  caught  as 
many  as  three  skunks  around,  one  chicken, — 
have  caught  more  that  way  than  any  way  I  have 
tried.  Brother  trappers  try  my  plan  and  be  con- 
vinced. 


THE  PROPER  BAIT.  177 

The  entrails  of  muskrat,  rabbit,  chicken  or 
duck  will  make  far  better  bait  than  the  animal 
or  bird  itself.  In  very  cold  weather  I  use  the  oil 
of  wild  duck  which  I  save  in  the  fall,  but  even 
in  using  the  baits  I  speak  of  I  invariably  dig  up 
the  ground,  unless  it  is  a  water  set  or  a  swamp 
set  on  some  log. 

In  cold  weather,  or  in  fact  during  the  entire 
trapping  season,  fur-bearing  animals  are  search- 
ing for  something  to  eat  and  consequently  the 
trap  that  is  baited  is  more  liable  to  catch  than 
one  that  is  not.  Fresh  rabbit  is  an  excellent  bait 
for  most  animals. 


12 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

SCENT  AND  DECOYS. 

T  is  claimed  bj  trappers  that  som£ 
methods  are  good  while  others  are 
not,  I  have  bought  nearly  all  of  the 
methods  put  on  the  market  and  find 
that  all  are  good  if  properly  used, 
says  a  well  known  trapper.  Experi- 
ence has  taught  me  that  you  can 
catch  any  kind  of  an  animal  with 
decoy.  Experience  has  also  taught  me  that  you 
can  catch  any  kind  of  an  animal  without  decoy. 
My  belief  is  that  there  is  one  decoy  that  is  of 
great  value,  especially  in  the  running  season, 
and  it  is  that  of  the  famous  beaver  castor.  Few 
animals  can  pass  it  without  investigating. 

You  can,  however,  use  all  the  decoys  put  to- 
gether, and  if  you  do  not  set  the  trap  properly 
you  might  as  well  set  traps  on  top  of  a  straw 
stack,  back  of  some  barn,  to  catch  a  fox,  and  you 
will  get  him  just  as  quick.  But  if  your  trap  is 
set  somewhere  near  his  haunts,  on  a  knoll  or 
under  vines,  at  a  hollow  stump,  tree  or  hole,  and 
baited  with  a  good  piece  of  fresh  bait,  you  will 
catch  just  as  many  if  not  more  in  the  fall,  than 
you  will  with  the  decoy. 

In  winter  and  spring  I  prefer  decoy,  although 

-      178 


SCENT  AND  DECOYS. 


179 


I  have  caught  a  good  many  foxes  without  it. 
During  winter  and  spring,  the  main  thing  is  to 
know  just  how  and  where  to  set  the  trap.  The 


CAUGHT   WHERE    SCENT    IS   MUCH    USED. 

best  way  to  find  this  out  is  to  study  the  animal 
you  wish  to  catch,  then  go  after  him.  A  fox  is 
almost  as  easy  to  catch  as  a  skunk  if  you  con- 


180  STEEL  TRAPS. 

ceal  your  trap,  chain  and  all,  and  leave  things 
as  you  found  them  around  the  trap. 

It  is  well  to  buy  some  good  methods,  for  they 
will  give  you  a  good  idea  of  your  work  and  help 
you  get  a  start.  Should  you  try  them  and  fail 
the  first  time,  try  again.  Keep  right  at  trying 
and  after  a  while  you  will  get  to  catching  foxes. 
There  is  no  man  that  can  use  another  man's 
methods  as  well  as  the  discovered,  himself;  at 
least,  not  until  he  learns  them  and  finds  out 
how  to  use  them.  I  care  not  how  plainly  the  one 
selling  his  method  explains  it  to  others,  it  takes 

practice  before  the  best  catches  can  be  made. 
*         *         * 

About  scents,  some  may  be  good,  but  most  of 
them  are  worthless.  I  sent  to  an  old  trapper 
for  mink  scent  and  it  came  in  a  plain  tin  can, 
I  used  it  in  every  way  I  could  and  mink  would 
turn  and  go  around  it,  so  I  stopped  using  it  and 
took  to  the  old  Scotch  scent.  Here  is  the  recipe 
for  making  it : 

Take  two  dozen  minnows  three  inches  long, 
put  in  two  quart  cans  filled  with  water  and  seal. 
Let  stand  one  month  in  warm  place,  then  put 
on  bait  for  mink  or  skunk.  I  use  no  scent  for 
mink  in  water  sets. 

If  a  mink  is  hungry,  writes  an  Iowa  trapper, 
and  finds  bait  that  has  been  left  for  him,  he  will 
pay  no  attention  to  human  scent,  while  if  he  is 


SCENT  AND  DECOYS.  181 

not  hungry,  he  will  not  take  the  bait,  be  it  ever 
so  fresh.  A  mink  will  sometimes  make  a  trail 
in  the  fresh  snow  by  passing  several  times  over 
the  same  route  and  then  never  use  that  trail 
again.  I  have  also  known  otter  to  do  the  same. 
I  caught  two  mink  last  winter,  in  a  ditch,  set- 
ting my  trap  in  the  water.  The  first  night  I 
caught  a  medium-sized  mink  and  the  third  night 
I  caught  a  small  one.  I  believe  that  I  would 
have  caught  every  mink  that  went  up  that  ditch 
if  it  had  not  froze  up,  and  snowed  so  much  dur- 
ing the  time,  that  I  could  not  keep  my  traps 
properly  set.  If  a  person  sets  out  a  line  of  traps 
in  this  country  while  there  is  snow  on  the  ground, 
he  is  simply  gping  to  a  great  deal  of  trouble  to 
give  them  to  some  thief. 

In  trapping  mink  I  watch  for  signs  and  when 
I  locate  a  mink  I  consider  it  mine  and  it  gen- 
erally is.  If  you  bait  a  trap  where  you  may 
think  it  is  a  good  place  to  catch  a  mink,  it  often 
happens  that  you  may  make  a  good  many  trips 
to  your  trap  and  not  succeed.  You  may  say  to 
yourself  that  it  is  human  scent  that  keeps  them 
away,  when  perhaps  there  has  not  been  a  mink 
near  your  trap.  My  advice  to  young  trappers  is 
not  to  set  your  traps  where  a  mink  may  go,  but 
set  it  where  you  know  he  is  going,  and  you  will 
find  it  no  trick  to  catch  mink. 

In  writing  about  "Mistakes  of  Trappers/'  an 


182 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


O 


CJ 

tn 


w 

PH 


O 

ID 

o 


SCENT  AND  DECOYS.  183 

Alleghany  Mountain  trapper  of  fifty  years'  ex- 
perience says:  The  average  trapper  makes  a 
mistake  in  listening  to  some  one's  ideas  about 
scents  .for  trapping  an  animal,  instead  of  going 
to  the  forests,  the  fields  and  the  streams  and 
there  learning  its  nature,  its  habits  and  ways, 
and  its  favorite  food.  He  also  makes  a  mistake 
by  spending  much  time  in  looking  after  scents, 
rubber  gloves  to  handle  traps  with,  and  wooden 
pinchers  to  handle  bait  with,  instead  of  spending 
his  time  in  learning  the  right  Avay  and  the  right 
place  to  set  his  trap.  For  one  little  slip  and  the 
game  is  gone,  if  the  trap  is  not  properly  set. 

We  make  mistakes  in  thinking  that  the  fox 
is  more  sly  in  some  states  than  in  others.  Not 
long  ago  I  received  a  letter  from  a  friend  in 
Maine  asking  if  I  did  not  think  that  the  fox 
was  harder  to  trap  in  some  states  than  others. 
Now  the  states  in  which  I  have  trapped  are 
rather  limited,  but  I  have  trapped  in  Wisconsin, 
Michigan  and  Pennsylvania,  mostly  Pennsylva- 
nia. I  have  also  trapped  in  one  or  two  other 
states  and  wherever  I  found  the  fox,  I  found  the 
same  sly  animal  and  in  order  to  trap  it  success- 
fully it  was  necessary  to  comply  with  the  natural 
conditions. 

The  worst  mistake  of  all  mistakes  is  made  by 
the  one  who  uses  poison  to  kill  foxes  with.  Let 
me  tell  you  of  an  instance  that  came  under  my 


184 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


Q 

H-f 
Pk 
PW 


O 

H 
& 


O 

tt 

w 

w 

H 


O 

a 


SCENT  AND  DECOYS.  185 

observation  four  years  ago  in  the  southern  part 
of  this  county.  My  road  was  over  the  divide  be- 
tween the  waters  of  the  Alleghany  and  Susque- 
hanna.,.  About  five  miles  of  the  road  lay  over  a 
mountain  that  was  thickly  wooded,  with  no  set- 
tlers. While  crossing  this  mountain  I  saw  the 
carcasses  of  four  foxes  lying  in  the  road.  On 
making  inquiries  I  learned  that  a  man  living  in 
the  neighborhood  was  making  a  practice  each 
winter  of  driving  over  the  roads  in  that  section 
and  putting  out  poisoned  meat  to  kill  foxes. 

I  chanced  to  meet  this  man  not  long  ago  and 
I  said,  "Charley,  what  luck  did  you  have  trap- 
ping last  winter?"  His  reply  was,  "Not  much, 
only  two  foxes.  Old  Shaw  dogged  them  out  of 
the  country."  (Referring  to  a  man  who  hunted 
with  dogs.)  I  said,  "Charley,  don't  you  think 
that  poison  business  had  something  to  do  with 
it?"  He  replied,  "Oh,  h— 1,  there  will  be  foxes 
after  I  am  dead."  This  man  calls  himself  a 

trapper  and  is  quite  an  extensive  fur  buyer. 
*         *         * 

For  fox  decoy,  get  five  or  six  musk  glands 
from  rats  in  the  springtime;  put  enough  trout 
or  angle  worms  with  them  to  make  a  pint,  cork 
them  tight  and  leave  in  the  sun  thru  the  sum- 
mer, and  add  the  essence  from  one  skunk 
(squeeze  out  the  essence,  don't  put  in  the  bag). 
I  have  never  seen  a  better  decoy  and  I  have  used 


186  STEEL  TRAPS. 

many.     You  can  use  either  one  alone.     I  have 
caught  many  foxes  with  trout  oil  alone. 

Remember  the  bait  and  scent  is  no  good  what- 
ever as  long  as  there  remains  a  trace  of  human 
odor;  the  whole  secret  is,  Be  Careful. 

The  beaver  castors  or  bark  sacks  and  the  oil 
stones  are  found  near  the  vent  in  four  sacks  in 
both  male  and  female.  In  taking  them  out,  cut 
clear  around  them,  and  take  all  out  together 
with  as  little  meat  as  possible.  The  bark  sacks 
contain  a  yellow  substance.  To  get  the  contents, 
tie  a  string  around  the  hole  in  the  sacks  and  rub 
them  between  the  hands  until  soft,  then  cut  them 
open  and  squeeze  the  contents  into  a  glass  jar 
or  bottle.  To  get  the  oil  from  the  oil  stone,  cut 
the  end  off  and  squeeze  it.  Keep  separate  and 
mix  as  directed : 

1st.  Take  the  castor  of  one  beaver,  add  20 
drops  oil  of  cinnamon,  10  drops  oil  Anise,  and 
"wine"  of  beaver  to  make  the  bait  thick  like 
mush. 

2nd.  Take  the  castor  sacks  of  one  beaver, 
add  7  drops  of  oil  sassafras,  7  drops  Anise,  10 
drops  oil  from  the  oil  stone. 

3rd.  Take  the  castor  sacks  of  one  beaver, 
add  10  drops  of  Jamaica  rum,  5  drops  oil  of 
Anise,  5  drops  oil  cloves,  5  drops  oil  sassafras,  5 
drops  oil  Rhodium. 

4th.     Take  the  castor  sacks  of  one  beaver,  add, 


SCENT  AND  DECOYS.  187 

10  drops  oil  from  the  oil  stones,  and  beaver's 

urine  enough  to  make  the  bait  like  mush. 

*         #         * 

For  beaver  bait,  get  six  castors  off  of  beav- 
ers, one  nutmeg,  12  cloves,  30  grains  or  cinnamon 
and  mix  up  with  a  little  whiskey  to  make  in  a 
paste  or  like  mixed  mustard.  Put  in  a  bottle 
and  cork.  In  a  few  days  it  will  get  strong,  then 
use  as  a  bait  on  pan  of  trap. 

You  catch  no  foxes  if  there  is  any  human 
scent  around,  says  an  Eastern  trapper.  I  will 
tell  you  how  I  set  a  trap  for  fox  in  a  brook  of 
running  water.  Have  your  trap  free  from  rust 
(beeswax  is  good  to  prevent  rust  on  a  trap)  ; 
have  on  a  pair  of  water-proof  boots,  put  the 
bait  on  a  rock  about  two  feet  from  shore,  and 
set  trap  on  a  rock  three  inches  from  shore. 
Cover  trap  about  one  inch  with  moss;  have  it 
rise  above  water,  and  place  a  rock  for  reynard 
to  step  on  before  he  steps  onto  the  trap  rock. 
Put  a  few  drops  of  scent  on  the  bait,  of  the  right 
kind,  and  be  sure  the  trap  is  under  water ;  handle 
bait  and  moss  with  sharp  stick.  Now  I  am  sure 
you  would  catch  no  fox  if  you  worked  from  the 
bank.  Always  walk  in  water  when  going  to 
trap. 

I  will  give  a  pointer  on  using  decoys  or  scent 
for  making  trails,  writes  a  Western  trapper. 
Take  a  piece  of  sponge,  run  stout  string  thru  it, 


188 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


pour  on  your  medicine  and  then  place  the  sponge 
in  the  hollow  of  the  sole  of  your  rubber  boot, 
bring  the  ends  of  the  string  up  over  the  instep, 
cross  them  and  tie  on  the  back  side  of  the  boot 
and  it  will  make  a  trail  that  a  mink  or  coon  will 
follow  a  mile  or  more. 


TRAPPER'S     HOME 


COLORADO. 


The  slyer  animals,  such  as  the  fox  and  mink, 
soon  learn  to  associate  all  fancy  smells  with  dan- 
ger, and  then  most  scents  act  as  warning  instead 
of  a  lure,  writes  an  Ohio  trapper.  For  mink  bait 
I  think  a  fresh  muskrat  carcass  is  about  the  best 


SCENT  AND  DECOYS.  189 

bf  anything,  because  muskrat  is  their  common 
food  and  therefore  they  are  not  nearly  as  liable 
to  be  suspicious  of  it  as  of  some  strange  scent, 
such  as  amber  oil,  anise  oil,  oil  of  cinnamon  or 
oil  of  lavender,  one  or  more  of  which  is  nearly 
always  used  in  combination  scents. 

I  generally  take  a  hen  carcass,  smear  it  with 
the  musk  of  a  muskrat,  and  use  it  for  a  drag, 
as  it  will  make  a  trail  that  a  mink  is  pretty  sure 
to  follow  to  the  trap  which  should  be  set  in  a  hole 
near  an  old  stump  or  log  if  such  a  hole  can  be 
found,  and  then  covered  with  fine  dry  dirt,  rot- 
ten wood  or  what  is  better  than  either,  the  feath- 
ers from  the  chicken  carcass  which  has  been 
used  as  a  drag.  I  find  it  a  better  way  to  cut  the 
bait  into  small  pieces  and  use  several  pieces 
with  each  trap,  but  if  only  one  piece  is  used  it 
is  best  to  stake  it  fast.  If  an  animal  only  has 
to  make  one  trip  into  the  enclosure  to  get  all 
the  bait  he  will  not  be  as  apt  to  be  taken  as  if 
he  made  several  trips,  which  he  is  pretty  sure  to 
do  if  the  bait  is  cut  into  small  pieces  and  scat- 
tered around  in  the  enclosure. 

There  seems  to  be  quite  a  difference  of  opin- 
ion among  trappers  as  to  the  "attractive"  value 
of  Scents  and  Decoys.  Some  praise  them,  while 
others  consider  them  of  little  value. 

In  our  years  of  experience  as  Editor  of  the 
H-T-T  we  have  read  thousands  of  trappers'  let- 


190  STEEL  TRAPS. 

ters  from  all  parts  of  America,  which  in  addi- 
tion to  personal  observation  when  on  the  trap- 
ping line,  enables  us  to  say  that  "Scents"  and 
"Decoys,"  if  rightly  made,  prepared  and  used 
are  of  value. 

There  is  no  question  but  that  the  sexual  or- 
gans of  the  female  secured  "when  in  heat"  and 
preserved  in  alcohol  is  a  great  lure  for  the  males 
of  that  specie. 


CHAPTER  xxiii. 


HUMAN   SCENT  AND   SIGN. 

HERE  is  a  great  deal  said  just 
now  about  the  human  scent 
theory,  writes  an  Illinois  trapper. 
Some  claim  that  you  can  catch  no 
animal  if  there  is  any  human 
scent  around,  and  they  hardly 
take  time  to  set  their  traps  prop- 
erly for  fear  of  leaving  scent.  I 
always  considered  that  the  most 
important  thing  in  setting  traps  was  to  coyer 
them  properly,  and  to  disturb  things  as  little  as 
possible. 

When  your  traps  are  set  everything  should 
be  as  natural  as  before.  By  that  I  mean  that 
when  you  are  trapping  for  the  shrewdest  game, 
such  as  fox,  mink,  otter,  wolves,  etc.  For  other 
animals  such  as  skunk  and  muskrat,  you  need 
not  use  such  caution,  for  they  will  blunder  into 
a  trap  no  matter  how  carelessly  it  is  set.  Still  it 
is  always  best  to  cover  your  signs  properly  for 
you  can  never  know  what  animal  may  come 
along.  If  your  traps  are  carefully  covered  you 
are  as  liable  to  get  a  valuable  pelt  as  a  low 
priced  one.  Use  care  in  setting;  study  well  the 

191 


192 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


nature  and  habits  of  the  game  you  are  trapping, 
and  YOU  will  be  successful.  Never  begin  trap- 
ping until  the  fur  is  prime  for  one  prime  skin  is 
worth  more  than  five  or  six  poor  ones. 


A   FEW   DAYS'    CATCH. 


Among  trappers  there  is  a  variety  of  opinion 
as  to  the  different  kind  of  baits  to  use,  and  also 
as  to  the  different  wrays  to  avoid  the  smell  of 
iron  or  steel  traps.  Some  boil  their  traps  in 


HUMAN  SCENT  AND  SIGN.  193 

willow  bark;  others  dip  their  traps  in  melted 
tallow  or  beeswax. 

I  have  had  a  fox  get  into  my  snowshoe  tracks 
and  follow  a  long  ways  because  it  wras  better 
traveling.  Now  that  shows  he  was  not  afraid 
of  human  scent  writes  a  Vermont  trapper.  Now 
about  iron.  How  often  does  a  fox  go  through  a 
wire  fence  or  go  near  an  old  sugar  house  where 
there  are  iron  grates.  That  shows  he  is  not 
afraid  of  scent  of  iron. 

Once  there  was  an  old  trapper  here,  and  the 
young  men  wanted  him  to  show  them  how  to  set 
a  fox  trap,  and  he  told  them  he  would,  so  he  got 
them  out  to  show  them  how,  and  this  is  what  he 
told  them.  "Remove  all  suspicion  and  lay  a 
great  temptation."  Well  there  it  is.  Now  in 
order  to  remove  all  suspicion  you  must  remove 
all  things  that  are  not  natural.  A  man's  tracks, 
and  where  he  has  been  digging  around  with  a 
spade  or  with  his  hands  are  not  natural  around 
a  spring,  are  they?  No.  Well  then,  there  is 
where  the  human  scent  question  comes  in.  By 
instinct  he  is  shown  that  man  is  his  enemy,  and 
when  a  man  has  pawed  the  bait  over  he  uses  his 
sense  and  knows  that  danger  is  there,  for  it  is 
not  natural. 

Now  I  have  a  question  at  hand ;  in  one  place 
he  is  not  afraid,  and  around  the  trap  he  is  afraid. 
Now,  how  (Joes  he  know  Tyhen  to  be  afraid  and 

13 


194  STEEL  TRAPS. 

when  not?  I  think  because  when  he  sees  a  piece 
of  bait  in  a  new  place  it  is  not  natural. 

Once  last  winter  I  knew  where  there  was  a; 
dead  horse  and  I  used  to  go  by  it,  and  one  day 
my  brother  was  with  me,  and  of  course  he  knew 
that  I  could  get  a  fox  there,  so  to  please  him  I 
feet  a  trap,  and  not  another  fox  came  near.  Well, 
I  smoked  that  trap,  boiled  it  in  hemlock  and  then 
smeared  it  in  tallow,  but  the  fox  knew  and  never 
came  within  ten  feet  of  it  again,  when  they  were 
coming  every  night  before.  When  I  went  by 
there  before  I  set  the  trap  I  left  as  much  scent 
as  after,  and  how  could  he  tell  when  there  was  a 
foot  of  snow  blown  there  by  the  wind  after  I  set 
my  trap? 

Now  they  don't  appear  to  be  afraid  of  human 
scent  or  iron  in  some  places  and  around  a  trap 
they  are,  so  now  why  should  they  know  where 
to  be  shy?  Well,  because  it  may  be  in  an  unnat- 
ural place,  but  what  tells  him  it  is  in  an  unnat- 
ural place  unless  it  is  instinct  or  good  sharp 
sense. 

As  for  scent,  I  know  that  rotten  eggs  and 
onions  are  natural,  although  the  matrix  of  the 
female  fox  in  the  running  season  is  very  good 
scent;  also  skunk  or  muskrat  scent  or  decayed 
fish,  as  it  gives  out  a  strong  smell. 

One  word  to  the  novice  fox  trapper.  You 
must  make  things  look  and  smell  natural  around 


195 


196  STEEL  TRAPS. 

the  spring,  and  put  before  them  the  food  which 
God  has  provided  for  them,  and  you  will  have 
success.  Place  the  trap  in  the  mud  of  the  spring, 
and  a  sod  on  the  pan  of  the  trap.  Use  one  that 
has  not  been  handled  by  the  hand  of  a  human 
being. 

I  will  give  some  facts  on  human  scent  and 
human  signs  in  South  Carolina.  Now  I  have  not 
trapped  "ever  since  the  Civil  War" ;  I  have  never 
trapped  "all  kinds  of  fur  bearers  that  inhabit 
the  Eocky  Mountains",  but  have  trapped  every 
fur-bearing  animal  of  upper  Carolina  from 
muskrat  to  otter,  writes  an  experienced  trapper. 

The  mink  and  fox  are  the  animals  most  trap- 
pers referred  to,  we  have  no  foxes  here  to  catch, 
therefore  I  am  unable  to  say  anything  about  Rey- 
nard. Mink  in  the  Carolinas  are  not  afraid  of 
human  scent  any  more  than  any  other  animals, 
but  they  are  afraid  of  human  signs  in  an  un- 
natural place.  It  is  a  common  thing  to  find 
mink  tracks  in  my  path  where  I  visit  my  traps 
every  day,  they  are  made  late  in  the  afternoon. 
I  have  set  my  traps  almost  at  night  and  have 
had  a  mink  in  them  next  morning.  I  used  no 
scent  or  bait,  and  mink  are  very  scarce  here,  too. 

My  favorite  set  is  in  cane  brakes  and  run- 
ways, using  no  bait.  When  I  first  began  to  trap, 
mink  were  not  so  scarce  as  they  are  now,  but 
the.re  are  a  few  left  yet.  Not  many  years  ago 


HUMAN  SCENT  AND  SIGN,  197 

nearly  every  night  I  would  have  a  muskrat's  hide 
badly  torn  and  sometimes  the  rat  barberously 
murdered  and  half  eaten  up. 

One  writer  says,  take  bait  and  scent  and  set 
a  trap  properly,  then  go  a  little  farther  on  and 
set  a  trap  without  either  bait  or  scent,  and  see 

which  trap  you  catch  a  fox  in  first. 

*         #         * 

Now  we  notice  that  this  writer  brings  in  the 
bait  every  time.  We  are  very  much  in  favor  of 
bait,  and  make  bait  one  of  our  most  essential 
points  in  trapping  the  fox.  This  writer  says  that 
those  "no  scent"  men  are  the^ones  that  say  fox 
are  afraid  of  human  scent.  For  our  part  we  do 
not  claim  anything  of  the  kind ;  on  the  contrary, 
we  claim  that  it  is  the  signs  that  we  make  that 
the  fox  is  shy  of. 

I  see  there  are  a  great  many  talking  about 
mink  not  being  afraid  of  railroad  irons  and  barb 
wire  fences  writes  a  Louisiana  trapper.  Well, 
I  guess  they  are  not,  but  some  of  them  are  afraid 
of  human  scent  under  certain  conditions,  while 
under  some  other  conditions  they  are  not. 

Find  a  place  where  they  are  liable  to  come, 
and  tramp  and  tread  around  just  like  an  unex- 
perienced trapper  would  do,  taking  an  old  rusty 
or  new  trap,  handling  with  naked  hands  and  set 
either  concealed  or  naked,  stick  a  chunk  of  meat 
up  over  it  on  a  stick,  and  then  remove  sticks  and 


198  STEEL  TRAPS. 

stones  making  a  disturbance.  This  will  make 
mink  afraid  of  human  scent  in  that  place.  A 
great  many  are  afraid  of  a  bait  stuck  up  on  a 
stick  if  there  is  humn  scent  around  it,  so  I  think 
it  is  a  combination  of  these;  namely,  disturb- 
ances, human  scent  and  the  unnatural  place  to 
find  food  that  scares  them  away.  Yet  they  are 
not  all  that  way  by  any  means. 

Now  let  some  of  these  fellows  who  think  ani- 
mals are  not  afraid  of  human  scent  try  to  catch 
an  otter  that  has  been  caught  before  and  got 
away,  and  they  will  think  differently.  I  caught 
one  last  winter,  that  had  his  front  leg  off  within 
an  inch  of  the  shoulder.  I  also  caught  a  coon 
that  had  both  front  legs  off  high  up,  and  strange 
to  say  this  coon  was  fat  and  in  good  condition. 
He  wasn't  a  very  large  one,  and  his  teeth  were 
badly  worn  off.  He  must  have  looked  funny 
Avalking  around  on  his  hind  feet  like  a  bear,  that 
is  the  way  he  walked  for  I  could  tell  by  the 
tracks. 

I  see  a  great  deal  of  discussion  about  mink 
being  afraid  of  human  scent  writes  a  prairie 
trapper.  I  think  there  is  a  difference  between 
mink  concerning  this:  some  mink  are  afraid  and 
others  are  not. 

Last  winter  I  caught  a  mink  in  a  trap  but  he 
got  away  before  I  got  there,  and  that  mink  after 
getting  loose,  followed  the  tracks  I  had  made  the 


HUMAN  SCENT  AND  SIGN.  199 

morning  before  for  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  up 
the  river  before  he  turned  in  close  to  the  bank; 
Now  he  didn't  seem  to  be  afraid  of  human  scent. 

Again  I  have  walked  up  to  a  mink  path,  care- 
fully set  and  covered  my  trap,  and  then  carefully 
walked  away  in  my  old  tracks,  but  never  a  mink 
would  I  get,  nor  would  the  mink  even  go  along 
that  path  any  more.  I  have  even  walked  up  to  a 
path  Avhen  I  had  no  traps  with  me  and  then 
walked  away,  and  altho  the  path  had  been  used 
every  day  before,  it  was  not  used  again  for  about 
nine  or  ten  days. 

I  once  set  a  trap  at  the  bottom  of  a  muskrat 
slide  without  covering,  and  although  I  had 
walked  all  around  there  and  my  trap  was  not 
covered,  I  got  a  mink. 

I  wish  to  say  that  mink  are  not  afraid  of 
human  scent  and  in  proof  will  tell  a  little  ex- 
perience I  had  with  a  mink  while  trapping  for 
muskrat,  writes  a  Massachusetts  trapper. 

One  night  I  came  to  one  of  my  traps  which 
contained  a  muskrat  that  was  partly  eaten.  I 
knew  it  was  the  work  of  a  mink.  Going  on  up 
the  stream  a  short  distance  I  had  a  mink,  and 
I  allowed  that  this  mink  would  steal  no  more 
muskrats,  but  on  investigating  I  discovered  that 
this  mink  was  coming  down  stream,  while  the 
one  that  had  eaten  the  muskrat  was  going  up, 
and  after  all  I  had  not  caught  the  thief. 


200  STEEL  TRAPS. 

Next  night  the  same  trap  contained  a  musk- 
rat  partly  eaten  and  I  determined  to  catch  the 
mink.  I  took  the  rat  out  of  the  trap  and  fixed 
for  Mr.  Mink  by  setting  a  second  trap  about 
three  feet  from  the  first  one.  I  then  started  to 
look  at  other  traps  and  was  not  gone  more  than 
an  hour,  and  on  returning  to,  these  traps  I  found 
that  I  had  already  caught  the  mink,  and  it  was  a 
big  one  and  very  dark.  If  this  mink  had  been 
afraid  of  human  scent  he  would  not  have  re- 
turned. 

In  regard  to  human  scent  it  does  seem  to  me 
that  after  a  man  has  trapped  for  a  number  of 
years  he  ought  to  know  something  about  it, 
writes  a  trapper  of  the  Great  Lake  region. 

I  do  positively  know  that  human  scent  will 
drive  most  animals  away.  I  have  been  a  great 
lover  of  taking  the  otter.  Brother  trappers,  how 
many  of  you  that  have  trapped  the  otter,  but 
what  have  found  out  that  he  can  tell  that  you 
have  been  there  if  you  are  not  very  careful,  and 
he  is  not  very  much  sharper  than  mink  or  fisher. 

I  do  think  that  all  animals  can  scent  a  human 
being.  I  have  caught  almost  all  kinds  of  fur- 
bearing  animals  this  side  of  the  Eockies,  and  I 
don't  know  it  all  yet,  but  I  do  know  the  nature 
of  all  the  game  I  trapped,  and  that  we  must  all 
know  to  make  trapping  pay. 

In  regard  to  scents,  will  say  that  undoubtedly 


HUMAN  SCENT  AND  SIGN.  201 

the  most  taking  scent  for  male  fur-bearing  ani- 
mals is  that  taken  from  the  female  during  the 
mating  season.  Yet  there  are  other  things  that 
will  attract  them  sometimes. 

I  believe  there  are  times  when  the  female 
mink  can  be  trapped  more  easily  with  the  blind 
set,  in  fact  at  least  one-half  the  mink  I  ever 
caught  were  taken  in  that  manner,  without  any 
muskrat  meat. 

I  believe  that  a  party  may  have  and  use  all 
the  scents,  baits  and  methods  in  existence  but 
without  some  knowledge  of  the  animal  sought, 
and  also  a  little  practicable  common  sense,  and 
knowledge  of  setting  traps  he  will  meet  with  in- 
different success. 

Trappers  are  divided  as  to  their  views  on 
"Human  Scent  and  Sign".  Some  of  the  old  and 
experienced  ones  think  there  is  nothing  to  either 
for  as  they  say  they  catch  the  shrewdest  animals 
without  any  trouble.  This  is  true  but  the  trap- 
per of  years  of  experience  knows  how  to  set  his 
traps  without  leaving  "sign." 

There  is  no  question  but  that  the  shrewdest 
animals  "look"  with  suspicion  upon  "sign"  or 
anything  out  of  the  ordinary  especially  at  their 
den  or  places  where  they  often  frequent. 

The  hunter  knows  that  deer,  bear,  fox  and 
other  animals  rely  upon  their  sense  of  smell  as 
one  of  their  ways  to  evade  them.  Is  it  not  as 


202 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


C/5 

W 

K 
U 


H 
U 

w. 


O 


KN 


O 


O 

u 


HUMAN  SCENT  AND  SIGN.  203 

\ 

reasonable  that  they  smell  a  trapper  when  on 
his  rounds? 

Of  course  after  the  trapper  has  made  the  set 
and  gone,  his  scent  will  gradually  leave  and  the 
"sign"  is  probably  the  cause  of  the  animal  keep- 
ing away,  should  it  continue  to  do  so. 

That  human  scent  is  quite  noticeable  to  ani- 
mals is  proven  from  the  fact  that  bloodhounds 
can  follow  a  man's  trail  or  scent  even  tho  it  has 
been  made  hours  before.  Yet  after  a  day  or  so 
the  scent  is  lost  and  the  best  bloodhound  cannot 
follow  it. 

Do  not  the  same  conditions  apply  to  the  scent 
left  by  the  trapper  when  setting  his  traps  for 
wolves,  foxes,  mink,  otter,  beaver  and  other  keen 
scented  and  shrewd  animals?  It  surely  does, 
and  after  a  few  days,  at  the  farthest,  the  "human 
scent"  is  all  gone. 

This  being  true,  then  it  must  be  the  "sign" 
that  keeps  the  animal  away.  Again,  it  may  be 
that  the  animal  has  had  no  occasion  to  return. 

Where  the  trapper  has  just  set  traps  for 
foxes  or  wolves  and  these  animals  visit  them 
within  a  few  hours  they  perhaps  are  aware  that 
a  person  has  been  about  as  both  "scent"  and 
"sign"  may  be  there. 

To  overcome  "human  scent"  and  "sign"  the 
trapper  must  leave  no  "sign"  and  as  for  "human 
scent"  it  will  leave  in  a  short  time.  In  visiting 
the  traps  do  not  go  near  unless  disturbed. 


CHAPTEK  XXIV. 

HINTS    OX    FALL    TRAPPING. 

EFORE  the  readers  of  the  H-T- 
T  receive  the   November  issue 
the    death    sentence    will    have 
been  passed  and  executed  upon 
many     a     luck-less    fur-bearer 
whose  hides  will  be  "on  the  fence," 
for  in  many  states  trapping  can  be 
done  at  any  time,  more  is  the  pity, 
writes  a  Michigan  trapper  and  buyer.    In  Michi- 
gan no  trapping  is  allowed  until  November  1st, 
which  is  plenty  soon  enough.    Last  season  I  saw 
many  hundreds  of  skunk,  coon  and  mink  and 
also  opossum  skins  that  had  been  taken  in  Oc- 
tober and  were  onlv  trash.     It  was  a  worthless. 
«/  /i 

wasteful  slaughter.  Muskrats  are  the  only  ani- 
mals that  may,  with  reason,  be  taken  during  the 
first  half  of  October  and  yet  it  is  better  to  wait 
until  general  collections  are  good. 

I  will  first  ask  the  amateur  if  he  uses  the 
precaution  to  stake  his  rat  and  mink  traps  at 
water  sets  with  bushes  instead  of  stakes.  They 
do  not  attract  the  attention  of  hunters  and  other 
stragglers  and  especially  boys  as  does  the  new 
whittled  wood  of  a  stake ;  sometimes  it  is  neces- 
sary to  go  still  farther  than  this  and  cut  a  short 

204 


HINTS  ON  FALL  TRAPPING.  205 


EASTERN   MINK  — NOVEMBER    CAUGHT. 


206  STEEL  TKAPS. 

stake  and  shove  it  entirely  out  of  sight  under 
water  or  mud. 

When  you  find  where  a  rat  is  working  slightly 
in  many  places  along  a  bank  and  you  do  not 
know  just  where  to  place  your  trap,  dig  a  little 
place  in  the  bank  at  the  water's  edge  and  up 
above  it  and  set  your  trap  in  the  entrance  under 
the  water  a  half  inch.  This  will  attract  the  rat 
and  you  will  most  likely  get  him.  It  helps  to 
pin  down  a  rat's  leg  or  other  small  portion  of 
the  carcass  in  the  excavation  just  mentioned. 
Eats  will  not  eat  the  meat,  but  it  is  sure  to  draw 
them  into  the  trap;  and  then  by  baiting  with 
rat  flesh  you  will  often  get  a  mink. 

After  you  have  caught  a  rat  at  feeding  signs 
or  in  any  other  inconspicuous  place  and  you  do 
not  get  more  after  two  nights,  it  is  well  to  move 
your  trap  to  a  new  place.  I  generally  trap  three 
nights  on  one  stretch  of  ground  and  then  take 
up  all  except  now  and  then  one  occupying  the 
most  favored  positions;  the  remaining  traps 
will  catch  the  stragglers  and  the  traps  you  re- 
move and  reset  will  be  on  guard  to  a  purpose. 

Be  careful  and  do  not  dry  your  furs  by  the 
fire.  I  saw  many  lots  of  rats  last  fall  and  into 
the  winter  that  would  break  like  glass,  the  skins 
had  been  made  so  brittle  by  the  fire-drying  pro- 
cess. It  makes  the  pelt  side  look  dark  and  un- 
prime  as  well. 


HINTS  ON  PALL  TRAPPING. 


207 


In  setting  for  mink,  follow  water  setting  as 
long  as  possible  and  set  under  over-hanging  roots 
and  banks  where  the.  tracks  are  seen  or  where  a 
log  lies  up  so  as  to  permit  the  mink's  passing 
under  and,  in  short,  wherever  the  game  is  most 


MUSKRAT    HOUSE. 

apt  to  pass  thru  or  under  as  is  the  mink's  habit. 
Where  there  is  no  timber  and  the  banks  are  low, 
then  the  main  dependence  is  on  making  a  trench 
as  described  and  pinning  down  a  portion  of 
muskrat. 

I  will  also  say  that  I  have  found  rat  houses 


208  STEEL  TRAPS. 

a  capital  place  to  catch  mink.  Both  coon  and 
mink  visit  rat  houses  that  are  nearest  to  shore; 
knowing  this,  after  you  have  caught  off  the  rats, 
dig  a  hole  in  the  side  of  the  house  and  throw  in 
a  portion  of  a  muskrat.  Set  your  trap  at  en- 
trance covered  with  water  or  thin  mud  and  if 
there  is  a  mink  or  coon  that  visits  the  house  you 
will  get  him  if  things  don't  go  contrary,  the  trap 
fail  to  get  h6ld  or  some  other  ill  luck  occur. 

When  a  coon  is  expected  a  long  hardwood 
stake  should  be  used.  I  have  had  a  number 
blunder  into  rat  traps,  chew  the  soft  popple  or 
willow  stake  all  to  pieces  and  go  off  with  the 
trap.  And  they  have  never  returned  one  yet. 

A  word  more  on  the  mink  question.  When 
I  find  a  place  that  mink  are  most  sure  to  pass 
thru  or  under,  I  do  not  use  bait.  Especially  if 
the  mink  is  old  and  cunning  and  has  been 
trapped,  or  one  that  has  been  nipped  by  a  trap 
and  become  "bait  shy."  For  these  I  make  blind 
sets  only.  My  trap  and  chain  is  under  water 
and  also  my  stake. 

The  trap  is  barely  covered  by  water  or  mud 
and  an  old  leaf  or  two  that  is  watersoaked  is 
laid  on  the  trap.  If  I  think  there  is  a  chance  for 
the  mink  to  avoid  the  trap,  I  lean  up  an  old 
chunk  or  dead  stick  against  the  bank  with  the 
lower  end  just  beyond  the  trap  next  to  deep 
water.  It  is  plain  to  be  seen  that  if  he  goes  be- 


HINTS  ON  FALL  TRAPPING.  209 

hind  that  prop  he  will  hear  something  drop.  I 
have  caught  many  a  mink  in  this  manner  that 
have  eluded  all  the  trappers  in  my  neighborhood. 

Several  years  ago  an  old  trapper  and  myself 
fought  a  friendly  contest  in  our  endeavor  to 
catch  a  sly  old  dog  mink.  He  traveled  on  a 
creek  which  was  a  mere  thread.  My  competitor 
was  a  strong  believer  in  bait  and  before  a  week 
had  passed  he  had  tried  muskrat,  fish,  birds  and 
frogs.  The  mink  passed  nightly  but  ignored  all 
these  offerings,  the  main  reason  being  that  a 
meadow  near  by  teemed  with  mice. 

Calling  the  mink  a  "bad  one/'  he  invited  me 
to  try  my  hand.  He  had  about  a  dozen  baited 
traps  set.  I  took  one  good  No.  1  Newhouse  and 
selecting  a  place  where  the  bank  was  under- 
mined and  the  mink's  track  could  be  seen  on  a, 
shelf,  I  placed  my  trap  next  to  the  bank,  placed 
the  leaves  of  a  long  soaked  weed  over  the  trap 
which  was  barely  submerged.  I  then  took  a 
large  weed  that  was  full  of  branches  and  thrust 
it  in  the  bed  of  the  stream,  so  close  to  the  trap 
that  the  mink  would  be  liable  to  pass  between  it 
and  the  bank.  The  next  morning  I  met  the  old 
trapper  coming  back  from  his  round.  "Well, 
did  you  get  ?im?"  I  asked. 

"No,  but  you  did  and  I  killed  him  for  ye  and 
he's  a  whalin'  big  one/'  he  added  rather  dryly. 
His  disappointment  was  but  poorly  disguised 

14 


210  STEEL  TRAPS. 

and  like  the  "fox  and  grape  fable"  he  comforted 
his  chagrin  by  saying :  "He  probably  blundered 
in,  with  so  many  traps  set,  how  could  he  help  it? 
I'd  a  ketchecj  ?im  in  a  night  or  two."  I  did  not 
dispute  this  statement,  but  kept  a  deal  of  think- 
ing. 

All  thru  November  skunks  will  be  visiting 
old  dens  looking  up  winter  quarters  to  suit  and 
wandering  with  their  usual  lawlessness.  By 
placing  traps  in  the  entrance  of  these  holes  you 
will  catch  some  of  the  striped  gentry,  but  your 
catch  will  be  vastly  greater  if  you  bait.  Many 
skunks  only  look  down  a  hole  and  do  not  enter, 
which  they  would  do  if  you  place  a  bait  of  musk- 
rat,  rabbit  or  chicken  below  the  trap  at  each  set- 
ting. The  skunk  is  such  a  glutton  that  altho 
he  may  be  gorged  to  repletion  he  will  still  try 
to  encompass  more  if  it  is  food  to  his  liking. 

Quite  a  number  of  trappers  wish  to  know 
how  skunk  catching  can  be  done  without  odor. 
Boys,  don't  be  afraid  of  the  odor.  Wear  old 
clothes  and  discard  them  at  the  close  of  day. 
The  perfume  that  the  first  skunk  gives  off  when 
you  dispatch  him  is  an  advantage  to  you.  It 
draws  others.  So  having  caught  one,  keep  your 
trap  there.  I  have  had  a  trap  set  at  a  den  for 
a  long  time  without  its  being  disturbed,  but  as 
soon  as  I  caught  one  several  more  got  fast  in 
quick  succession. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

LAND  TRAPPING. 

OLLOWING  animals  are  trapped 
on  land  and  in  what  is  known  as 
land  sets:  Wolf,  marten,  bear, 
weasel,  mountain  lion,  badger, 
fisher,  lynx,  wild  cat,  civet, 
skunk,  ring-tail  cat,  and  opossum. 
Fox  are  largely  trapped  on  land, 
but  in  some  sections  they  are 
taken  in  water  at  bait  sets ;  mink 

and  coon  are  trapped  on  land  as  well  as  in  the 

water. 

Wolves,  being  one  of  the  shrewdest,  methods 

for  catching  them  will  be  described  first. 

WOLVES  AND  COYOTES. 

Find  an  old  trail  that  the  coyotes  use,  plant 
your  trap  in  as  narrow  a  part  of  the  trail  as 
possible,  fasten  trap  to  a  good  toggle,  bury  the 
toggle  to  one  side  of  the  trail.  Have  a  blanket 
while  doing  the  work.  Place  all  dirt  on  the  blan- 
ket. After  trap,  chain  and  toggle  are  put  in 
place  and  wool  has  been  put  under  pan,  cover 
all  nicely  with  dirt  from  the  blanket.  The  dirt 
should  not  be  over  one-fourth  of  an  inch  deep. 

211 


212  STEEL  TRAPS. 

Leave  everything  looking  as  it  did  before  you 
began. 

Now  have  an  old  stick  (not  a  fresh  cut  one) 
the  size  of  your  wrist  and  long  enough  to  reach 
across  the  trail  and  lay  it  about  eight  inches  from 
the  trap  and  crosswise  of  the  trail.  A  coyote 
won't  step  on  the  stick,  but  will  step  over  it  every 
time.  Use  caution  and  leave  no  human  signs 
and  you  will  get  your  coyote.  This  method  is 
used  successfully  in  Texas,  says  a  wolf  trapper 
of  that  state. 

The  wolf  is  a  pretty  hard  animal  to  trap, 
writes  a  Minnesota  trapper.  Whenever  he  gets 
near  a  bait  he  is  always  shy  and  that  is  because 
he  can  smell  iron,  but  if  you  put  a  trap  in  his 
track  and  he  comes  along  he  will  walk  right  in 
and  get  caught.  That  is  because  he  thinks  there 
is  no  danger  in  his  own  tracks.  There  are  many 
times  that  he  falls  a  victim  to  the  trap  that  way. 
I  will  describe  a  set  most  trappers  use  here  in 
the  winter  when  there  is  snow  on  the  ground. 

They  take  some  horse  manure  and  haul  it  out 
on  some  plowed  field  and  make  two  heaps  not 
very  high  and  in  one  of  them  they  put  the  bait 
and  in  the  other  the  traps.  Four  traps  are  most- 
ly used,  secured  to  a  log.  Care  must  be  taken 
not  to  cover  the  traps  too  much.  The  best  bait, 
I  think,  is  thse  entrails  from  a  hog. 

Trappers  for  wolves  should  not  use  smaller 


LAND  TRAPPING  213 

than  No.  3  traps.  The  No.  4  is  known  as  the  wolf 
trap  and  will  be  found  suitable  for  all  sections. 
If  wolves  have  been  feasting  off  the- carcass  of 
a  sheep,  calf  or  other  animal,  set  your  trap  there. 
If  you  have  plenty  of  traps  a  half  dozen  set 
within  eighteen  inches  of  the  carcass  and  care- 
fully covered  up,  should  make  a  catch. 

The  trap  and  fastening,  a  weight  and  clog, 
be  it  remembered,  should  be  covered.  If  you 
dig  up  the  ground  in  order  to  conceal  the  clog, 
have  a  basket  or  something  along  to  put  the 
earth  in  and  carry  away  some  distance.  Every- 
thing must  be  left  as  natural  as  possible. 

Another  method  is  to  hang  up  a  dead  chicken 
and  place  a  trap  directly  under  it.  Hang  the 
fowl  about  three  feet  high. 

The  secret,  at  least  one  of  them,  in  trapping 
is  to  leave  everything  as  natural  as  possible  after 
setting  your  trap.  Most  animals  will  regard  with 
suspicion  if  there  is  much  change  around  their 
den.  In  the  case  of  skunk  it  perhaps  is  not  so 
particular,  yet  the  trapper  who  carefully  con- 
ceals his  traps  will  be  well  repaid  for  so  doing. 
Even  when  trapping  for  skunk  you  never  know 
what  animal  may  come  along. 

Then  to  be  ready,  adopt  the  rule  of  always 
carefully  covering  your  traps.  We  all  admit  that 
the  fox  and  wolf  are  shy  animals  and  are  rather 
difficult  to  catch,  yet  they  are  frequently  caught 


214 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


by  trappers  who  are  only  trapping  for  opossum 
or  skunk.  These  trappers,  of  course,  had  their 
traps  carefully  hidden.  While  fox  and  wolf  are 
among  the  smartest  animals,  yet  they  can  be 


WOLF    CAUGHT   AT    "BANK    SET". 

caught,  as  the  thousands  of  pelts  sold  annually 
is  evidence.  See  to  it,  trappers,  that  every  trap 
is  set  and  covered  properly  and  you  will  be  re- 
warded some  morning  on  visiting  your  trap  by 
a  fox  or  wolf  if  they  are  many  in  your  section, 


LAND  TRAPPING.  215 

Now  a  word  about  trapping  those  cute  little 
coyotes,  writes  a  California  trapper.  The  best 
way  to  catch  anything  that  walks  on  four  legs  is 
to  make  a  fool  of  them.  Some  people  may  think 
that  is  "hot  air/'  but  I  know  better. 

The  best  way  to  fool  an  old  coyote  is  to  take  a 
fresh  sheep  skin  and  drag  it,  you  riding  on  a 
horse,  for  a  mile  or  so  in  the  hills  near  where 
your  man  is  in  the  habit  of  going,  (now  be  sure 
you  don't  touch  it  with  your  hands)  until  you 
find  an  open  hill  not  too  high.  Have  a  stake 
there  before  hand  and  your  traps  set.  The  traps 
should  be  left  lying  in  the  sheep  pen  for  a  week 
before  setting. 

When  you  get  to  the  stake,  hang  your  pelt  on 
it,  so  when  the  wind  blows  the  pelt  will  move. 
Mr.  Coyote  will  be  sure  to  find  the  trail  you  have 
made  and  will  follow  it  until  it  sees  the  pelt, 
and  then  he  will  walk  around  it  for  a  night  or 
so,  but  he  will  not  get  too  near  the  first  night 
or  three  or  four  nights,  but  he  will  try  to  pull 
the  skin  down  and  he  will  forget  about  the  traps 
and  everything  else  and  will  be  taken  in  just 
like  all  the  other  suckers. 

My  outfit  consists  of  the  following,  writes  a 
well  known  Western  trapper :  Sixty  No.  3  New- 
house  single  spring  otter  traps  (I  find  they  will 
hold  any  wolf  and  are  easier  set  than  double 
spring  traps),  an  axe,  60  stakes  16. or  18  inches 


216  STEEL  TRAPS. 

long,  12  or  15  pounds  of  wool  or  cotton,  wool 
preferred,  20  stakes  10  or  12  inches  long,  a  piece 
of  oil  cloth  or  canvas  about  3  feet  square,  a  light 
wagon  and  team,  a  good  rifle  and  four  stag 
hounds.  The  hounds  are  trained  so  stay  on  the 
wagon  until  told  to  go,  and  will  nearly  always 
get  a  coyote  when  sent  after  him. 

In  setting  traps  I  choose  a  high  knoll  or  a 
bare  spot  on  the  range  —  often  the  bed  of  a  dry 
creek  —  where  I  see  plenty  of  signs,  and  then 
proceed  as  follows :  Stick  one  of  the  small  stakes 
where  I  want  the  bait  and  from  20  to  24  inches 
from  it  lay  a  trap  and  stretch  the  chain  straight 
back,  drive  stake  through  chain  ring  and  drive 
down  beloAv  the  surface  of  the  ground  an  inch 
or  more.  Then  fix  two  more  traps  the  same  way 
at  the  opposite  points  of  a  triangle.  Set  your 
traps  and  place  a  good  wad  of  wool  under  the 
pan  so  that  rabbits  and  other  small  game  will 
not  spring  it,  and  then  proceed  to  bed  the  traps 
and  chains,  placing  all  the  dirt  on  the  canvas. 

Now  place  your  bait  (I  always  use  live  bait 
if  weather  is  not  too  cold,  but  have  had  good  suc- 
cess with  dead  bait).  Lay  an  old  dead  hen  or 
other  fowl  in.  the  center  and  drive  small  stakes 
through  it  into  the  ground  firmly;  cover  end 
of  stake  with  wing  or  feathers  of  bait. 

Now  step  back  and  take  dirt  from  the  canvas 


LAND  TRAPPING.  217 

and  cover  traps  \  or  f  inch  deep ;  also  cover  your 
own  tracks,  and  brush  over  all  with  a  bush.  If 
traps  are  well  set  it  will  be  hard  to  tell  where 
the  traps  lay.  All  dirt  that  is  left  on  canvas 
should  be  taken  away  some  distance  and  dropped. 
In  using  live  bait  proceed  the  same  way  with 
traps,  only  bait  should  be  tied  by  the  feet  with  a 
good  stout  cord  and  place  a  can  of  corn  and  one 
of  water  within  reach  of  fowl,  both  cans  to  be 
set  into  the  ground  level  with  surface.  Do  not 
go  nearer  to  traps  than  to  see  that  they  are  not 
sprung  and  do  not  shoot  or  club  game  in  the 
traps,  but  choke  to  death  with  a  copper  wire 
on  the  end  of  a  pole ;  a  good  stout*  cord  will 
answer  the  same  purpose.  Wipe  all  blood  off 
traps  before  setting  again  and  brush  out  your 
tracks  as  before,  and  above  all,  don't  spit  tobacco 
juice  near  your  traps. 

After  catching  one  wolf  or  coyote,  do  not  use 
more  bait,  as  the  scent  is  strong  enough  to  draw 
all  that  comes  near.  I  do  not  use  any  patent 
decoy  or  scents,  as  I  consider  them  useless  for 
any  game.  The  only  scent  I  use  is  what  I  make 
myself,  and  then  only  use  it  from  February  to 
April.  In  the  summer  I  gather  up  four  or  five 
bitch  dogs  and  as  fast  as  they  come  in  heat  I  kill 
them  and  take  the  organs  of  generation  and 
pickle  them  in  wide  mouth  bottles  with  alcohol 


218  STEEL  TRAPS. 

enough  to  cover.  I  sprinkle  a  few  drops  on  a 
stone  or  bush,  stick  in  center  between  traps,  but 
use  no  other  bait.  This  is  also  good  for  fox. 

The  above  method  is  the  same  as  I  learned  it 
from  an  old  Hudson  Bay  trapper,  Peirre  Dev- 
erany,  who  was  born  in  1817  and  had  trapped  all 
through  the  British  possessions  and  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  with  whom  I  trapped  for  several 
years. 

LYNX,,    FISHER,    WILD    CAT. 

Here  is  the  method  for  the  capture  of  a  lynx. 
Where  lynx  follow  up  trails,  build  a  house 
around  a  tree,  of  brush,  etc.,  leaving  a  small  door 
fronting  the  trail.  Cut  a  rabbit  or  bird  and  tie 
it  to  the  tree  in  the  house.  Place  a  No.  4  or  14 
Newhouse  trap  at  the  entrance,  covering  with 
cotton  or  wool  and  boughs.  Fasten  your  trap 
chain  to  a  clog ;  drag  a  rabbit  up  and  down  the 
trail  past  the  house. 

For  a  fisher  build  a  small  house  and  use  No. 
1^  Newhouse  trap  and  bait  with  rabbit,  bits  of 
deer  meat  with  the  hair  and  skin  left  on  is  also 
a  good  bait.  Use  a  sliding  pole  or  heavy  drag, 
as  the  fisher  sometimes  chews  the  drag  to  pieces. 

Wild  cat  are  trapped  about  the  same  as  lynx. 
There  are  a  great  many  caught  by  making  a 
cubby  or  enclosure  where  they  cross  or  frequent 
in  search  of  birds,  rabbits,  etc.  The  bait  is  placed 


LAND  TRAPPING. 


219 


back  in  the  cubby  and  may  be  either  bird,  rabbit 
or  fish. 

The  No.  1^  and  No.  2  Newhouse  are  used 
principally,  altho  the  Victor  No.  3  and  Oneida 
Jump  No.  4  are  both  adapted  to  wild  cat  trap- 
ping. 


LYNX    CAUGHT    IN    STEEL    TRAP. 

The  methods  given  for  catching  wild  cat,  lynx 
and  fisher  can  and  are  used  by  trappers  for  each 
of  these  animals.  That  is,  the  set  described  for 
wild  cat  can  be  used  for  fisher  and  lynx,  the  lynx 
set  for  fisher  and  wild  cat  and  the  fisher  set  for 


220  STEEL  TRAPS. 

lynx  and  wild  cat.    In  other  words,  a  set  for  any 
of  these  animals  is  good  for  all  three. 

MARTEN. 

To  begin  with,  when  trapping  for  marten, 
says  an  Oregon  trapper,  use  only  the  best  traps 
-  Xo.  1  or  1^  is  plenty  large  enough  —  in  fact, 
larger  traps  cannot  be  used  conveniently,  for  the 
reason  that  when  the  ground  is  covered  with 
deep  snow  and  your  traps  are  all  fastened  high 
up  on  trees  you  must  set  them  with  your  hands. 
With  nothing  to  rest  your  trap  on  except  your 
knee  and  with  fingers  like  icicles  it  will  require 
all  the  strength  in  your  left  hand  to  mash  to- 
gether the  spring  of  a  good  Xo.  1-J,  while  with 
the  right  you  adjust  the  pan  and  latch. 

Do  not  fool  away  your  time  with  a  few  traps, 
but  of  course  just  how  many  you  can  use  de- 
pends on  how  thick  game  is.  View  out  your  pro- 
spective line  during  summer  time.  Some  impor- 
tant essentials  are :  pick  out  a  line  in  very  heavy 
timber,  preferably  along  some  high  ridge ;  work 
gradually  up  or  down  hill  and  avoid  very  steep 
places;  a  line  free  from  underbrush  is  desirable 
unless  snow  gets  deep  enough  to  cover  it  all  up ; 
run  your  line  as  near  straight  as  possible;  avoid 
making  sharp  turns  for  your  blazes  will  at  times 
be  very  hard  to  see  owing  to  snow  on  the  barb 


LAND  TRAPPING.  221 

of  the  trees  and  once  off  the  line  it  may  be  hard 
to  find. 

Do  not  make  camps  too  far  apart,  eight  miles 


MARTEN  CAUGHT  IN  SHELF  SET. 

is  far  enough  when  the  snow  is  soft  and  deep. 
Get  your  traps  all  strung  out  before  snow  comes 
and  have  everything  ready  so  as  to  lighten  your 


222  STEEL  TRAJ>S, 

work  when  the  time  comes,  for,  even  then,  it  will 
be  hard  enough. 

Now,  in  setting  traps,  you  cannot  pick  out 
likely  places  —  hollow  trees,  etc.  —  do  not  leave 
the  line  even  for  a  few  feet  to  set  one  in  that 
hollow  tree  else  the  trap  is  apt  to  be  forgotten 
and  lost.  Give  every  tree  where  a  trap  is  left 
some  mark  to  indicate  its  presence. 

Use  wire  staples  to  fasten  traps  to  the  trees 
and  they  should  be  fastened  three  or  four  feet 
above  the  ground.  Set  the  trap  or  bend  the 
spring  around  to  fit  the  curve  of  the  tree.  Now 
drive  a  12  penny  nail  in  the  tree  an  inch  or  so, 
place  the  trap  so  that  the  cross  piece  rests  flat 
on  the  nail  and  drive  two  smaller  ones  between 
the  spring  and  your  trap  rests  same  as  if  set  on 
the  ground.  Nail  small  piece  of  bait  (squirrel, 
rabbit,  or  bird  is  best)  eight  or  ten  inches  above 
the  trap. 

If  you  desire  to  shelter  the  trap,  drive  a  cou- 
ple of  wooden  pegs  above  the  bait  and  lay  on  a 
piece  of  bark  or  some  boughs  —  this  is  not  nec- 
essary if  traps  are  to  be  looked  after  regularly, 
for  you  can  keep  the  snow  brushed  off.  A  large 
piece  of  bait  is  not  necessary,  but  in  rebaiting 
do  not  remove  the  old  bait,  just  nail  up  another. 
Sometimes  I  have  a  half  dozen  baits  by  each  trap. 
It  is  well  to  try  each  trap  occasionally  to  see  if 
it  will  spring  with  just  the  right  pressure.  If 


LAND  TRAPPING. 


223 


the  bait  is  scarce,  set  the  traps  any  way  and  you 
will  soon  have  enough  birds  and  squirrels. 

In  visiting  the  line,  always  make  your  pack 
as  light  as  possible,  four  or  five  pounds  of  bait, 
a  hatchet,  a  few  nails  and  staples  and  a  small 


SHELF  SET  AND   FASTENING. 

Stevens  22  cal.  pistol  is  all  you  will  be  apt  to 
need  for  one  hundred  traps.  If  you  are  a  trapper 
by  nature,  you  will  know  where  to  put  the  traps, 
close  together  and  where  there  is  a  probability 


224  STEEL  TRAPS. 

of  making  a  catch.  Some  places  I  put  a  trap 
every  fifty  yards  and  some  places  one-half  mile 
apart.  Keep  your  traps  freshly  baited  and  do 
something  with  each  trap  every  three  or  four 
days,  if  nothing  more  than  to  rub  a  piece  of 
bacon  rind  or  rabbit  entrails- from  the  top  of  the 
snow  to  the  bait.  A  drag  is  good  at  times  and 
in  some  places.  Scent  is  good  if  bait  is  frozen. 

WHITE   WEASEL. 

When  trapping  weasel,  writes  a  Northern 
trapper,  I  set  my  traps  near  small  streams  or  in 
swamps,  old  ditches,  beneath  old  roots  and  under 
shelving  banks,  near  running  water,  and  some- 
times they  may  be  caught  in  woodchuck  holes. 
The  white  weasel  and  all  other  weasel  are  regu- 
lar dummies,  going  headlong  into  a  trap,  even 
if  they  are  in  plain  view.  You  don't  need  to  cover 
up  your  trap  at  all  unless  you  want  to,  as  the 
weasel  will  walk  right  in  to  get  the  bait  and  click 
bang  and  you  have  your  weasel  hard  and  fast. 

The  best  bait  for  weasel  is  rabbit  heads, 
chicken  heads  and  squirrels.  The  same  sets  will 
also  catch  mink,  but  the  traps  must  be  covered 
in  that  case  unless  you  are  making  blind  sets.  I 
have  caught  a  good  many  weasel  in  my  mink  sets 
and  then  again,  I  have  caught  them  in  old  musk- 
rat  holes  or  dens  along  the  banks  of  small 


LAND  TRAPPING. 


225 


streams  and  also  near  river  banks  in  deserted 
rat  dens. 

White  weasel*  or  ermine  are  found  in  Canada 


SQUIRREL    CAUGHT    ON    STUMP. 

and  the  New  England  States  as  well  as  all  other 
states  bordering  on  Canada,  but  rarely  farther 
south. 
15 


226  STEEL  TRAPS* 

These  animals,  like  all  of  the  weasel  kind,  are 
active  in  their  search  for  food  and  are  easily  at- 
tracted to  bait.  They  are  the  smallest  of  the- 
animals  now  being  sought  after  by  American* 
trappers  for  their  fur.  The  No.  0  is  used  in  tak- 
ing this  animal,  altho  many  trappers  prefer  the 
No.  1  and  H  as  they  catch  high  and  the  trapper 
Usually  finds  the  weasel  dead  on  his  arrival. 

MINK. 

My  father  was  a  sticcessful  mink  trapper  but 
only  trapped  when  they  became  bothersome  says; 
an  experienced  trapper.  He  made  mostly  dry 
sets.  He  would  look  carefully  at  a  hole  in  bank 
of  stream  or  pond,  then  cut  out  a  place  for  the 
trap,  drive  a  stake  in  bottom  of  the  trap  bed,  coil 
trap  chain  around  it  and  set  trap  on  top,  then 
cover  with  finely  cut  grass,  a  big  leaf  or  writing 
paper  and  lastly  with  the  material  he  took  off 
the  top  trap  bed.  Then  he  cleared  all  extra  dirt 
away  and  put  the  bait  in  the  edge  of  the  hole  or 
under  the  edge  of  a  stick  or  stone,  if  there  was 
one  near  the  hole. 

I  went  with  him  once  and  I  said,  "Some  trap-, 
pers  stick  the  bait  on  a  stick."  He  looked  at  me 
and  said,  "You  young  goose,  did  you  ever  know 
a  mink  to  eat  part  of  a  muskrat  and  hang  the. 
rest  on  a  stick?"  He  used  bird,  muskrat  and  fish 


LAND  TRAPPING.  227 

for  bait.  If  bird,  he  tore  some  feathers  out  and 
made  it  appear  as  if  some  mink  had  dragged 
the  bait  there  and  hid  it. 

For  a  mink  that  is  not  hungry,  I  find  an  old 
muskrat  den  or  a  runway  through  a  drift  pile 
is  a  good  place.  The  great  trouble  with  these 
t\vo  last  sets  is,  the  rabbits  are  liable  to  get  into 
the  trap  instead  of  the  mink.  There  are  a  good 
many  ways  to  catch  mink,  and  there  are  mink 
that  will  evade  a  good  many  well  laid  plans  for 
their  capture. 

My  most  successful  plan  for  catching  mink  is 
this:  I  get  a  hollow  log  —  it  needn't  be  a  long 
one  —  and  if  it  is  open  at  both  ends  I  close  up 
one  end,  than  a  little  back  of  that  I  put  my  bait. 
Now  at  the  other  end  if  the  entrance  is  not 
slanting  so  that  the  mink  would  run  into  it 
easily,  I  make  it  so.  I  then  put  the  trap  inside, 
about  a  foot  from  the  entrance.  The  mink  will 
run  into  the  log  because  he  smells  the  bait,  or 
simply  because  it  is  the  nature  of  the  beast  to 
make  the  run  of  every  hollow  log  he  comes  to. 
Finding  the  other  end  closed  he  will  have  to 
come  back  and  he  is  sure  to  be  caught  either 
going  or  coming.  Trailing  bait  along  the  ground 
and  up  to  the  back  of  the  log  makes  the  results 
surer,  as  mink  are  great  on  the  scent. 

About  mink.  One  man  said  mink  would  not 
take  anything  4ead  unlessi  be  was  very  hungry. 


228  STEEL  TRAPS. 

Now  Brother  Trappers,  you  all  know  a  mink  will 
take  anything  he  finds  dead  and  drag  it  into  a 
hole  if  he  can  and  when  you  find  where  a  mink 
has  dragged  something  into  a  hole  that  is  a  never 
failing  set  for  if  he  is  not  in  the  hole  when  you 
find  it  he  will  sure  come  back  to  it. 

RACCOON. 

Hollow  trees  in  swamps  are  the  favorite  den- 
ning places  of  the  raccoon,  writes  an  Eastern 
trapper  of  years  of  experience,  but  in  some  sec- 
tions he  is  found  nearly  as  often  in  holes  among 
ledges.  If  there  is  a  rocky  hill  or  mountain  side 
on  your  line,  inspect  it  thoroughly.  The  occu- 
pied dens  may  easily  be  told  by  the  trodden  ap- 
pearance of  the  ground  about  the  entrance  and 
an  occasional  tuft  of  hair  on  the  projecting  edges 
of  the  stone.  Here  are  the  places  for  your  traps. 

Set  your  traps  just  outside  the  entrance, 
cover  well  with  leaves  and  rotten  wood,  and 
fasten  to  a  clog.  We  say  outside  the  entrance, 
for  if  the  trap  be  placed  at  a  point  Avhere  the 
animal  is  obliged  to  assume  a  crouching  posture, 
it  will  be  sprung  by  the  creature's  belly,  and  you 
will  find  your  trap  empty  save  for  a  fringe  of 
hair.  Even  if  the  dens  show  no  signs  of  recent 
occupation,  a  few  traps  can  hardly  be  misplaced, 
for  the  raccoon,  like  every  other  animal,  fre- 
quently goes  on  foraging  trips  long  distances 


LAND  TRAPPING. 


229 


O 
O 


a 

H 


O 

2 
3 


230  STEEL  TRAPS. 

from  his  actual  home,  taking  up  temporary  quar- 
ters in  places  like  those  above  described. 

Whenever  there  is  a  brook  or  creek  in  the 
vicinity  of  good  raccoon  ground,  look  along  it 
carefully  for  signs.  The  raccoon  follows  the 
streams  almost  as  persistently  as  the  mink  in 
quest  of  frogs,  fish  or  clams,  and  his  track  may 
be  easily  found  along  the  muddy  borders,  the 
print  of  the  hind  foot  strikingly  resembling  that 
of  a  baby's  bare  foot.  He  is  a  far  less  skillful 
fisher  than  the  mink,  usually  confining  himself 
to  such  unwary  swimmers  as  venture  up  into  the 
shallow  water  near  the  bank.  He  seldom  if  ever 
I  believe,  goes  into  deep  water. 

If  you  find  evidence  that  a  raccoon  is  patrol- 
ing  a  stream,  place  a  trap  without  bait  at  the 
end  of  every  log  affording  a  crossing  place.  The 
raccoon  seldom  wades  or  swims  when  he  can 
find  dry  footing. 

If  you  wish  to  trap  the  raccoon  by  baiting, 
you  will  find  nothing  that  he  likes  better  than  an 
old  salt  fish  skin  that  has  been  made  odorous  by 
being  well  smoked.  It  is  not  a  bad  id^  to  do 
the  smoking  near  where  you  are  to  set  the  trap. 
Build  up  a  little  stick  fire  in  the  woods,  hold  the 
fish  skin  impaled  on  a  green  stick,  over  it  until 
it  is  thoroughly  heated  and  smoked  through,  and 
an  odor  will  be  created  that  will  pervade  the 
woods  for  rods  around.  And  of  course  if  this 


LAND  TRAPPING.  231 

Scent  reaches  the  nostrils  of  any  near-by  ring- 
tail that  is  sleeping  away  the  day,  he  will  lose 
no  time  after  nightfall  in  tracing  out  the  source 
of  the  appetizing  smell,  and  endeavoring  to  make 
a  supper  off  his  favorite  food.  Mice,  squirrel, 
frogs  and  chickenheads  are  all  good  baits,  and 
they  are  equally  good  for  mink. 

Most  trappers  perfer  the  No.  1-J  Newhouse 
for  raccoon  although  some  use  the  No.  2  double 
spring.  The  Oneida  Jump  No.  2  and  2^  are  also 
good  coon  traps  as  is  the  H.  &  N.  No.  2.  The 
Stop  Thief  No.  3|  is  also  used  for  coon. 

FOXES. 

Now  I  will  tell  you  how  foxes  can  be  caught 
on  land  when  the  ground  is  frozen,  writes  a  New 
England  trapper.  Take  a  large  bait,  entrails  or 
anything  that  a  fox  will  eat,  and  put  it  in  some 
field  where  the  foxes  travel;  put  out  with  this 
bait  three  bags  of  buckwheat  chaff.  Don't  set 
any  traps  until  foxes  begin  to  eat  bait  and  walk 
on  chaff.  Then  take  a  No.  2  Newhouse  trap, 
smoke  it  over  burning  green  fir  boughs,  and  smear 
it  with  equal  parts  of  oil  of  amber  and  beeswax; 
also,  smear  the  chain  and  use  leather  mitts  to  set 
trap  with,  for  it  is  no  use  setting  unless  you  do. 
Bury  the  trap  about  a  foot  from  the  bait,  and 
cover  it  with  chaff.  Make  everything  level  and 
natural. 


232  STEEL  TRAPS. 

When  you  catch  a  fox,  take  him  out  with 
mitts  on  and  set  again  if  you  haven't  a  clean 
trap  to  put  in  its  place.  Always  set  a  clean  trap 
if  possible. 

My  way  of  catching  foxes,  writes  a  Georgia 


RED  FOX  CAUGHT  AT  DRY  LAND  SET. 

trapper  is  as  follows:  I  get  a  lot  of  dry  dust, 
put  it  in  the  hen  house  and  let  it  stay  until  I 
get  ready  to  make  my  sets;  then  I  take  what  I 
can  carry  handily  in  a  sack  to  where  the  foxes 
"use",  dig  a  hole  deep  enough  for  my  trap,  place 
a  piece  of  burnt  bacon  in  a  hole,  cover  it  up  with 


LAND  TRAIMMN<;.  233 

the  dust,  burn  more  bacon,  letting  the  grease 
drop  on  and  around  the  dust. 

I  fix  a  good  many  of  these  places  but  I  do  not 
set  my  traps  the  first  trip.  The  next  trip  I  carry 
my  traps  with  me.  If  the  foxes  have  found  my 
bait  they  will  dig  it  out.  I  then  set  my  trap  in 
the  bottom  of  the  hole,  driving  a  stake  down  in 
the  hole  to  fasten  the  trap  to.  Cover  the  trap 
chain  and  all  with  dust.  I  do  not  put  new  bait 
in  the  hole,  but  burn  more  bacon  on  top. 

Try  this,  brother  trappers,  and  watch  results. 
Do  not  set  traps  where  the  bait  has  not  been  dis- 
turbed. Carry  away  all  fresh  dirt  and  handle 
your  traps  with  gloves.  In  water  trapping,  form 
a  natural  surface  over  your  traps  and  you  will 
get  furs. 

I  see  different  ways  to  catch  the  fox.  They 
are  all  right  but  no  person  can  tell  another  and 
guarantee  success.  The  man  or  boy  who  sets 
right  will  get  the  fur  but  careless  ones  will  not. 
I  am  going  to  tell  amateurs  and  boys  the  secret 
of  an  old  time  trapper.  He  is  alive  yet  and  I 
guess  had  a  few  traps  set  (altho  over  eighty 
years  old.)  He  told  me  the  secret  and  said  at 
that  time  he  had  never  told  any  one  but  me. 

First  put  out  offal  of  butchering  such  as 
beef  head;  pick  out  a  good  place  where  foxes 
travel;  at  the  same  time,  singe  the  fur  on  a  rab- 
bit or  two  and  put  near  where  you  want  to  set 


234  STEEL  TRAPS. 

trap ;  commence  baiting  early  and  go  there  of teiL 
Go  past  close  to  where  you  want  to  set  a  trap; 
don't  tramp  around  much  but  go  on  thru,  not 
leaving  the  end  of  your  trail  there;  1'eiiewing 
bait  and  singed  rabbit  fur  as  needed. 

When  ready  to  set  traps,  boil  them  in  ashes. 
Then  after  drying,  fasten  traps  to  bottom  of  a 
barrel  and  burn  slowly  a  lot  of  rabbit  fur  under 
them;  handle  as  little  as  possible.  Set  carefully 
and  catch  your  fox  if  you  can  and  you  can  if  you 
are  careful  enough.  He  said  he  caught  fifteen 
in  one  place  that  way  in  one  winter.  Fasten 
trap  to  drag  so  he  can  go  away  and  not  spoil  set. 

My  best  method  is  to  set  my  trap  in  an  old 
log  road  or  path  where  there  is  no  traveling 
done.  We  should  set  the  trap  level  with  the 
ground.  The  trap  should  be  a  No.  2  Newhouse 
which  is  the  best  fox  trap  made. 

OPOSSUM. 

The  opossum  is  not  a  cunning  animal  and 
takes  bait  readily.  It  .is  found  in  the  Southern 
and  Central  States  principally.  This  animal 
cannot  live  in  the  extreme  north  as  they  die  from 
the  severe  weather. 

They  are  caught  principally  in  No.  1  New- 
house  traps,  at  dens  or  places  they  frequent  in 
search  of  food.  Almost  any  fresh  meat  is  good 
bait:  rabbit,  squirrel,  bird,  chicken,  etc. 


LAND  TRAPPING.  235 

The  trap  can  be  baited  when  used  at  den 
but  this  is  not  necessary.  Along  their  trails  and 
in  thickets  they  visit  a  piece  of  bait  suspended 
a  foot  or  so  above  the  ground  and  trap  under, 
carefully  covered,  will  catch  the  opossum.  They 
are  also  caught  by  building  a  pen  of  stakes,  or 


OPOSSUM  CAUGHT  IN  NO.  1  NEWHOUSE. 

chunks  and  stones  placing  bait  in  the  back  part 
and  setting  trap  in  front  also  at  hollow  logs 
where  they  frequently  live. 

No.  1  Newhouse  trap  is  used  a  great  deal  for 
this  animal,  although  the  No.  1  Victor  will  hold 
them;  No.  2  Oneida  Jump,  or  No.  2  Tree  Trap, 

proper  sizes  to  catch  this  animal. 


236  STEEL  TRAPS. 

The  Tree  Trap  can  be  used  to  advantage  in 
catching  opossum  as  this  trap  is  so  made  that  it 
can  be  nailed  to  a  tree  or  stump  and  baited. 

BADGER. 

The  badger  is  a  strong  animal  for  its  size, 
and  also  slow  in  its  movements.  The  No.  2  is  as 
small  a  trap  as  trappers  generally  use.  The 
traps  are  set  at  the  entrance  to  their  dens,  care- 
fully covered  and  should  be  fastened  to  a  move- 
able  clog. 

In  setting  for  badger  the  trapper  should  care- 
fully remove  enough  earth  to  bed  the  trap  level. 
A  piece  of  paper  or  long  grass  is  then  carefully 
placed  on  trap,  and  this  covered  lightly  with  the 
same  material  removed  in  making  the  excava- 
tion. This  set  is  apt  to  reward  the  trapper.  If 
care  is  taken  in  making  this  set  a  fox  may  be 
caught,  as  they  sometimes  frequent  dens  used 


by  badger. 


SKUNK. 


A  Skunk  is  one  of  the  easiest  animals,  whose 
fur  is  valuable  that  there  is  to  trap.  This  ani- 
mal is  one  of  the  first  to  become  prime  in  the 
fall.  LikeAvise  it  sheds  early  in  the  spring. 
When  the  weather  becomes  severe  they  den  up, 
coming  out  only  on  the  warmer  nights.  In  the 
North  they  are  seldom  out  after  real  winter  be- 


LAND 


237 


gins,  while  in  the  South,  they  seek  food  more  or 
less  throughout  the  winter. 

The  greatest  number  are  trapped  at  their 
dens  which  can  be  easily  told  by  the  long  tail 
hairs  found  in  and  near  the  month  of  den.  These 


BLACK   SKUNK   IN   NO.   1J  VICTOR. 

hairs  may  be  either  white  or  black,  but  are  usu- 
ally both  —  one  end  white  and  the  other  black. 
These  hairs  are  from  three  to  five  inches  in 
length. 

The  dens  can  also  be  told  by  their  droppings 
or  manure  which  is  usually  found  a  few  feet  to 


238  STEEL  TRAPS. 

one  side  of  the  den.  Skunk  "droppings"  can  be 
told  by  observing  closely  as  it  contains  parts  of 
bugs,  grass-hoppers,  etc.,  the  skunk  being  very 
fond  of  these. 

At  such  dens  place  your  trap  which  should 
be  a  No.  1  Newhouse,  No.  1^  Victor,  or  No.  2 
Jump.  While  catches  may  be  made  without  any 
covering  it  is  best  to  secret  the  trap  carefully 
for  a  fox  might  happen  along,  or  if  near  water, 
a  mink. 

The  best  place  to  put  the  trap  is  just  at  the 
entrance  of  den  so  that  an  animal  in  coming 
out  will  get  caught  also  one  going  near  to  the 
den,  but  not  entering  as  they  often  do. 

Kemove  the  earth  sufficient  to  bed  the  trap 
so  that  after  it  is  covered  the  covering  will  be  on 
a  level  with  the  surroundings.  Make  a  cover- 
ing with  whatever  you  removed.  If  there  is 
grass  in  mouth  of  den,  cover  with  grass,  if 
leaves,  cover  with  leaves,  etc. 

Another  good  set  is  to  find  where  skunk  are 
feeding,  digging  for  insects,  or  their  trails  lead- 
ing from  one  den  to  another,  and  make  a  cubby, 
placing  bait  in  it,  and  setting  trap.  Bait  should 
be  rabbit,  squirrel,  chicken,  bird,  or  in  fact,  al- 
most any  kind  of  meat. 


TRAPPING. 


239 


240  STEEL  TRAPS. 


CIVET. 

Civet  or  civet  cats  are  caught  much  the  same 
way  as  skunk.  This  is  the  little  spotted  animal 
often  called  pole  cat,  and  smaller  than  the  skunk. 
Skunks  have  a  spot  on  the  head  and  two  stripes 
while  the  civet  has  several  stripes  and  these 
sometimes  run  across  the  body*  instead  of  along 
the  back  from  head  to  tail  as  on  the  skunk. 

This  animal  is  caught  much  the  same  as  the 
skunk,  but  being  •  nii*etf%naller  does  not  require 
as  strong  a  trap  and  the  No.  1  of  most  any  make 
will  usually  hold  this  animal.  Bait  the  same 
as  for  skunk. 

RING   TAIL   CAT. 

The  Eing  Tail  cat  or  B,asarisk  is  found  prin- 
cipally in  Texas,  although  there  are  some  in 
California,  Oregon  and  Washington.  They  can 
be  trapped  by  baiting  with  insects,  frogs  or  mice. 
The  No.  1  Newhouse,  or  No.  1^  Victor,  or  No.  2 
Oneida  Jump  are  correct  sizes  for  this  animal. 

The  traps  can  be  set  about  as  for  skunk  or 
may  be  placed  on  logs  and  baited  or  the  bait  can 
be  nailed  to  a  tree  that  they  frequent,  the  trap 
placed  beneath  and  carefully  covered. 


LAND  TRAPPING.  241 


BEAR. 

Bear  are  caught  after  finding  a  place  that 
they  visit  in  search  of  food,  by  building  a 
"cubby",  made  by  driving  old  dry  stakes  in  the 
ground  so  as  to  form  a  V-shaped  pen.  Then 
cover  all  except  the  entrance  with  green  brush. 
This  should  be  three  feet  high,  about  two  wide, 
and  about  three  or  four  feet  long. 

If  a  rock  or  old  log  is  laying  where  the  cubby 
is  to  be  built  it  can  be  tu5>ed  for  one  side.  The 
"cubby"  must  be  built  strong  or  the  bear  is  apt 
to  tear  it  down  and  secure  the  bait  without  get- 
ting caught. 

The  bait  can  be  a  piece  of  dead  horse,  hog, 
sheep,  or  most  any  animal,  and  the  more  it 
stinks,  the  better.  Fish  is  also  good  bait. 

Stake  the  bait  back  in  the  cubby,  and  set  the 
trap  at  the  entrance.  Cover  carefully.  The  trap 
should  be  fastened  to  a  clog  weighing  thirty 
pounds  or  more.  This  clog  should  be  several  feet 
long  and  if  a  few  knots  are  left  on  so  much  the 
better. 

The  Nos.  5,  15,  and  150,  are  all  adapted  for 
black  bear,  while  the  No.  6  is  especially  designed 
for  grizzly  bear.  It  is  the  largest  trap  made. 

In  setting  bear  traps  the  Newhouse  clamp, 
described  elsewhere,  is  much  used.  It  is  not 
very  safe  for  a  lone  trapper  in  the  forest  to  un- 
16 


242 


LAND  TRAPPING-  243 

dertake   the   setting;   of   a   powerful   steel   trap 
without  clamps. 

MOUNTAIN  LION. 

Mountain  lion  are  powerful  animals  yet  they 
are  successfully  caught  in  No.  4J  Newhouse 
traps. 


MOUNTAIN  LION   SECURELY  CAUGHT. 

If  you  find  where  mountain  lions  have  killed 
an  animal  and  left  part  of  it  there  is  the  place 
to  set  a  trap  for  they  are  almost  sure  to  return 
in  a  night  or  two. 

This  animal  is  also  frequently  caught  by  set- 
ting a  trap  where  deer  or  other  game  has  been 


244  STEEL  TRAPS. 

killed.  The  chances  are  good  if  there  is  a  lion 
near  it  will  smell  the  blood  and  be  attracted  to 
the  spot  as  many  hunters  know  that  have  killed 
game,  dressed  and  left  it  until  the  next  day,  to 
find  on  returning  that  a  lion  had  been  there  and 
helped  itself. 

In  setting  for  this  animal  the  trap  should  be 
fastened  to  a  clog — never  solid  —  as  they  are 
quite  strong. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 


WATER  TRAPPING. 

ERE  is  where  the  steel  trap  re- 
veals its  superiority  over  all 
other    traps,    for    the    home- 
made ones  cannot  be  used  for 
water  sets.     Strictly  speaking; 
all   the   "water  animals"   that  are 
valuable    for    fur    are    the    otter, 
beaver  and  muskrat,  although  large 
numbers  of  both  coon  and  mink  are 
caught    at    water    sets,    as    they    frequent  the 
streams,  ponds  and  lakes,  a  great  deal  in  search 
of  food. 

In  the  New  England  states,  as  well  as  some 
other  sections,  foxes  are  caught  in  water  sets 
mostly  at  springs.  They  are  generally  trapped 
this  way  in  the  fall  and  early  winter  before  freez- 
ing weather. 

BEAVER. 

The  beaver,  as  I  know  him,  is  a  very  shy  and 
cunning  animal,  always  on  guard  against  danger, 
which  makes  it  pretty  hard  to  trap,  unless  the 
trapper  thoroughly  knows  his  ways  and  habits. 
My  experience  has  been  wholly  confined  to  the 

245 


246  STEEL  TRAPS. 

Rocky  Mountains  of  British  Columbia  and  State 
of  Washington,  writes  a  trapper  of  experience. 

The  beaver  lives  along  streams  or  lakes.  On 
streams  he  buils  dams,  thus  making  a  reservoir 
or  lake.  Sometimes  he  builds  a  dam  at  the  out- 
let of  a  natural  lake,  thus  raising  the  height  of 
the  water.  After  he  has  prepared  his  dam  and 
built  his  home,  he  commences  to  gather  food, 
which  consists  of  branches  of  trees;  bushes,  and 
even  small  trees  themselves.  He  always  chooses 
tender,  green  ones.  These  he  puts  in  the  bottom 
of  the  lake  or  stream  in  his  hut  or  lodge.  If  he 
be  disturbed  at  any  time  he  will  stop  work  for 
several  days  and  live  off  the  boughs  already 
gathered  and  sunken,  and  it  is  almost  impossible 
to  get  him  until  he  commences  to  gather  again. 

He  usually  does  his  work  among  young 
sprouts  which  grow  along  the  bank  of  his  lake 
or  stream.  Sometimes  he  will  go  a  short  ways 
up  the  stream  and  float  the  boughs  down  to  his 
dam  or  hut2  and  then  sink  them  to  the  bottom, 
so  when  the  ice  gets  thick  he  has  sufficient  food 
sunk  in  the  water  to  last  him. 

There  are  several  different  wrays  to  trap  him, 
but  I  only  know  of  two  or  three,  and  will  attempt 
to  give  them.  The  first  thing  is  a  No.  3  or  4 
Newhouse  trap  with  a  long  chain  and  big  ring. 
Then  the  best  way  is  to  take  some  bait,  ( described 
elsewhere),  cut  some  small  twigs,  one  for  each 


WATER  TRAPPING?"  247 


BEAVER,  TRAP  AND  TRAPPER. 


248  STEEL  TRAPS. 

trap,  and  having  found  the  dam  of  a  family  of 
beavers,  put  on  a  pair  of  rubber  boots,  or  remove 
your  boots,  and  wade  up  stream  along  the  shore, 
or  go  in  a  boat  to  where  they  have  been  at  work 
gathering  the  sprouts.  Be  very  careful,  and 
don't  step  out  of  the  water  on  the  land  so  they 
can  see  your  tracks  or  scent  you,  for  should  his 
suspicion  become  aroused  by  any  human  smell 
the  beaver  will  stay  in  his  home  for  several  days, 
thus  making  it  tedious  work  to  trap  him.  When 
you  have  a  place 'selected  where  the  bank  is  steep, 
fasten  your  trap  chain  to  a  strong  stake  beneath 
the  water.  Then  fasten  a  heavy  rock  to  your 
trap  and  dig  a  flat  place  in  the  bank  a  few  inches 
beneath  the  water,  placing  your  trap  thereon. 
Then  dip  the  twig  into  the  "madcin"  and  stick 
the  upper  end  in  the  ground,  just  out  of  the 
water,  and  leaning  over  the  trap.  Now  your 
trap  is  ready. 

The  beaver  conies  out  of  his  hut  as  it  growB 
dark  and  starts  toward  the  ground  where  he  has 
Jiis  feeding  place.  As  he  swims  along  up  the 
stream,  his  nose  comes  in  contact  with  a  familiar 
smell,  and  he  will  swim  right  up  to  the  twig  to 
investigate.  As  his  foot  touches  the  ground  the 
trap  springs  and  he  at  once  plunges  for  deep 
water.  The  stone  rolls  down  to  the  bottom  and 
pulls  him  under  and  he  drowns  in  a  short  time. 
He  makes  no  noise  to  scare  the  rest,  and  before 


WATER  TRAPPING.  249 

he  has  time  to  gnaw  off  his  foot  he  is  drowned. 
In  this  way  you  can  catch  the  whole  family. 

Another  way  is  to  cut  a  hole  in  the  top  of 
dam  and  set  the  trap  just  below  the  top  of  water 
just  under  the  hole.  Just  as  soon  as  he  comes 
out  his  eyes  tell  him  his  dam  needs  fixing.  He 
goes  at  it  at  once,  and  all  the  rest  help  him.  He 
gets  into  the  trap  often  before  the  eyes  of  the 
rest,  and  they  will  leave  the  place  at  once  never 
to  return. 

Another  way  is  to  cover  the  trap  carefully  in 
the  path  where  the  beaver  goes  from  the  water 
to  his  feeding  grounds,  but  doing  this  it  is  lia- 
ble to  scare  the  rest  of  them  entirely  away. 

OTTER. 

The  otter  is  a  pretty  hard  animal  to  catch. 
When  I  set  a  trap  in  an  otter  hole,  I  cut  a  chunk 
of  snow  with  an  axe  a  short  distance  away  and 
set  over  the  hole,  covering  it  all  over  with  loose 
snow.  That  prevents  it  from  freezing  up  fop 
some  time. 

The  best  time  to  catch  otter  is  in  March  when 
the  first  thaw  comes.  I  have  kept  traps  set  all 
winter  few  an  otter  and  then  got  him  in  the* 
spring.  The  trap  should  be  set  a  little  to  one  side 
of  the  hole  in  ten  inches  of  water.  I  caught  an 
otter  once  in  an  otter  hole  so  deep  that  I  had  to 
put  in  an  armful  of  cedar  brush;  so  as  to  make  it 


250  STEEL  TRAPS. 

the  right  depth,   and  when  he    came  to   slide 
around  there  he  got  a  surprise,  writes  a  Colorado 

trapper. 

*         *         # 

To  trap  otter  cut  a  log  about  18  inches  in 
diameter  and  about  7  or  8  feet  in  length,  then 
cut  half  off  five  or  six  inches  of  one  end  of  the 
log.  Xow  float  your  log  with  the  cut  end  down. 
Fasten  your  trap  chain  to  the  side  of  the  log. 
Float  your  log  to  just  below  the  point  of  a  stream 
or  a  little  above  an  otter  slide. 

See  that  the  log  end  on  which  the  trap  rests 
is  below  the  water  so  as  to  give  the  otter  a  chance 
to  climb  onto  the  log  to  investigate  the  scent 
which  should  be  "Oil  of  Anise"  smeared  on  to 
a  stick  and  set  upright  on  the  log.  If  you  use 
good  judgment  in  placing  your  log-float,  you 
can  count  the  "balls"  on  the  otter's  feet  at  every 
set, 

I  find  where  the  otter  comes  out  of  the  water, 
writes  an  Arkansas  trapper,  to  dung,  or  slide, 
as  some  term  it,  and  I  take  a  No.  4  steel  trap  and 
set  it  where  he  comes  out  of  the  water  and  about 
two  inches  under.  Great  care  should  be  taken 
in  setting  a  trap  for  an  otter,  not  to  go  too  close 
to  the  slides.  Have  a  pair  of  rubber  boots  and 
wade  in  the  stream  along  the  edge  to  where  the 
slide  is.  Set  your  trap  so  as  to  leave  everything 


WATER  TUAITING. 


251 


252  STEEL  TRAPS. 

just  as  you  found  it,  as  near  as  possible;  if 
handy,  set  from  boat.  No  bait  is  required. 

Fasten  your  chain  to  a  pole,  say  6  or  8  feet 
long,  leaving  some  limbs  on  one  end  to  prevent 
ring  of  chain  from  coming  off  and  wire  the  other 
end  to  a  bush  or  something  of  that  sort  as  far 
out  in  the  water  as  you  can  so  the  otter  can  get 
into  deep  water  and  drown.  Have  a  pole  driven 
in  the  ground  out  in  the  water  so  the  otter  will 
get  tangled  around  the  pole.  This  will  prevent 
him  from  getting  loose,  because  he  has  no  pur- 
chase to  pull  as  he  would  have  if  out  on  the  bank. 

I  "hung  up"  three  one  night  last  fall.  When 
I  went  to  my  traps  I  found  one  otter  that  meas- 
ured 6  feet  from  tip  of  nose  to  tip  of  tail.  I 
found  an  otter  toe  in  one  trap,  another  trap  be- 
ing taken  off  by  an  otter,  as  the  chain  pulled 
loose  at  the  spring.  I  was  fortunate  in  finding 
the  otter  that  got  away  with  the  trap  four  days 
later,  tangled  up  in  some  vines  about  two  hun- 
dred yards  from  where  he  was  caught ;  he  meas- 
ured 5  feet  and  11  inches, 

MINK. 

An  excellent  way  to  catch  mink  is  to  take  a 
fish,  cut  it  in  pieces  and  tie  all  of  them  except  one 
or  two  onto  a  large  stick  and  fasten  it  out  about 
two  feet  from  the  shore  in  shallow  water,  Set 


WATER  TRAPPING.  253 

your  trap  about  half-way  between  the  shore  and 
the  stick  and  have  it  fixed  so  that  the  covering 
Will  make  a  little  mound  above  the  water.  Throw 
the  other  pieces  of  fish  down  on  the  shore  and 
you  will  get  every  mink  that  comes  along.  Be 
sure_that  your  trap  is  staked  in  as  deep  water 
as  is  possible,  so  they  will  not  get  away. 

In  setting  any  trap  it  is  a  very  good  thing  to 
have  rubber  boots  and  stand  in  the  water  while 
setting.  Some  trappers  say  it  is  foolishness  be- 
cause they  are  not  afraid  any  way.  Well,  I  have 
caught  mink  in  an  uncovered  trap  that  was  in 
plain  sight  and  then  again  I  couldn't  get  them 
to  come  near  with  the  trap  under  water.  Some 
mink  are  more  careful  than  others  and  if  you  set 
for  the  wisest  ones  you  will  be  sure  to  get  them 
all. 

I  will  give  you  a  good  mink  set,  writes  a  Min- 
nesota trapper.  Here  is  a  trail  along  the  edge 
of  the  water.  Let  us  follow  it  until  it  takes  to 
the  water.  In  order  to  pass  around  a  projection 
in  the  bank  where  the  bank  is  so  straight  up 
that  it  is  necessary  for  the  animal  to  go  into  the 
edge  of  the  water  to  pass  around  this  obstruc- 
tion, and. in  the  edge  of  the  water  not  more  than 
two  inches  deep,  level  a  place  for  the  trap  and 
press  it  down  into  the  ground  until  the  jaws  are 
level  with  the  surface,  being  careful  to  remove 
all  mud  from  under  the  pan,  giving  it  room  for 


254  STEEL  TRAPS. 

free  action.    Stake  the  chain  back  into  the  water 
full  length  and  press  it  down  into  the  mud. 

After  doing  this  get  a  handful  of  dry  dirt, 
pulverize  it  and  let  it  fall  gently  over  the  trap, 
thoroughly  covering  it  at  least  for  a  quarter  of 
an  inch,  even  and  smooth  in  all  places.  Now 
about  eight  inches  on  each  side  of  the  trap  place 
a  small  weed  stalk  an  inchxor  two  above  the 
ground  and  directly  over  the  path  and  if  you 
will  put  a  few  spots  of  mud  on  it  just  where  it 
crosses  the  path  to  give  it  the  appearance  of 
being  rubbed  against,  you  will  catch  every  mink 
that  runs  this  trail  from  either  direction,  and 
without  bait  or  scent. 

MUSKRAT. 

When  setting  traps  stake  well  out  in  the 
water,  so  that  when  the  animal  is  caught  he  can- 
not get  to  land,  and  nine  times  out  of  ten  when 
you  visit  the  trap  your  game  will  be  drowned. 
The  trap  should  be  in  about  three  inches  of  water 
where  rats  frequent.  If  set  3  inches  or  deeper 
the  trap  is  more  apt  to  catch  by  the  hind  leg, 
which,  being  large,  the  bone  is  not  broken  so 
easily.  For  bait  use  white  corn,  apples,  pars- 
nips or  turnips. 

The  idea  advanced  that  the  muskrat  gnaws 
off  his  foot  when  caught  is  erroneous.  There  are 
times,  however,  when  the  trap  has  broken  the 


g 

cj 


O 
H 


d 
O 


255 


256  STEEL  TRAPS. 

bone  in  the  leg  and  if  the  trap  is  a  strong  one, 
the  animal  frees  himself  by  plunging  about  until 
the  pressure  of  the  jaws  have  cut  thru  the  flesh. 
The  flesh  of  the  muskrat  is  not  strong  and  when 
the  jaws  spring  together,  if  they  break  the  bone 
in  the  leg,  which  frequently  happens,  then  the 
rat  often  frees  himself  before  the  arrival  of  the 
trapper. 

It  is  a  good  plan  when  making  the  round  of 
your  traps  to  carry  a  stout  club  with  which  to 
tap  game  over  the  head,  killing  it,  should  it  be 
yet  alive  when  you  arrive.  The  entrance  of  the 
muskrat's  den  is  usually  under  water,  unless  the 
streams  are  very  low,  then  you  can  often  find 
them. 

In  the  mouth  of  these  dens  is  an  excellent 
place  to  set  traps,  as  game  is  passing  in  and  out 
quite  often  and  if  traps  are  baited  you  are  pretty 
sure  to  catch  game  in  a  day  or  two.  Where  rats 
have  made  a  path  from  the  water  up  the  bank 
is  another  good  place  to  set  a  trap.  The  trap 
should  be  set  just  at  the  edge  of  the  water. 

It  is  a  good  idea  to  cover  up  your  trap,  even 
when  trapping  for  muskrat,  for  with  continued 
trapping  they  become  sly  and  learn  to  shun  traps. 
Along  the  bank  of  most  all  streams  green  grass 
can  be  secured  and  this  placed  over  your  traps 
will  enable  you  to  catch  game  that  otherwise 
would  shun  your  trap.  The  trap  should  be 


WATER  TRAPPING.  257 

baited,  but  the  covering  up  of  trap  and  chain 
will  greatly  help  in  catching  game.  The  earlier 
traps  are  visited  in  the  morning  the  better,  for 
should  the  game  still  be  alive  there  will  be  less 
chance  of  it  getting  free. 

COON. 

Now  just  a  word  about  trapping  coon  in 
water.  Set  trap  in  water  and  bait  with  fish. 
Now  the  right  way  to  use  fish  is  to  cut  it  up  in 
very  small  pieces,  drop  some  on  the  ground  and 
some  in  the  water  and  when  Mr.  Coon  comes 
along  he  will  find  that  fish  on  the  ground  and 
then  go  to  feeling  in  the  water  and  the  first  thing 

he  knows  he  is  in  the  trap. 

#•'.»....* 

Here  is  my  most  successful  set  for  coon.  Find 
a  log  with  one  end  out  of  water,  and  one  end 
running  into  the  water.  Place  a  trap  on  the 
log  an  inch  or  so  under  water.  Cover  it  with  wet 
leaves  all  but  the  treadle.  Then  place  a  few 
grains  of  white  corn  on  treadle  pan.  Mr.  Coon 
will  as  sure  put  a  foot  down  to  investigate  as  he 
runs  the  log. 

FOX. 

I  go  around  every  fall  in  August  and  look  for 
places  to  catch  sly  reynard,  says  an  Eastern  fox 
trapper.  I  look  up  all  the  warm  springs  back 

17 


258  STEEL  TRAPS. 

in  the  hills  and  dig  them  out  and  leave  a  stick 
or  rail  there  for  a  clog.  I  leave  it  just  where  I 
want  it,  so  that  they  will  get  used  to  it. 

About  the  middle  of  October  I  go  and  bait 
every  place,  using  a  piece  of  chicken  or  muskrat 
about  as  large  as  a  butternut.  I  place,  it  on  a 
rock  in  the  middle  of  the  spring  or  about  a  foot 
from  the  bank  and  put  a  stone  half-way  between 
that  and  the  bank  just  under  water.  Then  I 
take  a  stone,  the  thinner  the  better.  You  can 
find  enough  of  them  around  a  ledge  where  the 
frost  has  scaled  them  off.  I  lay  it  on  the  rock 
that  is  just  under  the  water  so  it  will  stick  out 
of  water.  It  ought  to  be  2  inches  across  each 
way. 

I  use  the  scent  of  the  skunk  on  the  sole  of  my 
boots  so  as  to  kill  the  scent  and  handle  the  bait 
with  a  "knife  and  fork/'  never  with  my  hands. 
It  won't  be  long  before  the  bait  it  gone  when  I 
am  ready  to  set  my  traps,  then  I  move  the  middle 
stone  and  put  the  thin  one  on  the  pan  of  the  trap 
so  it  will  just  stick  out  of  the  water.  Try  this  and 
you  will  get  your  fox.  Scatter  three  or  four 
drops  of  fish  oil  around  trap. 

SPRING  TRAPPING. 

When  setting  traps  for  beaver  and  otter  in 
the  early  open  water,  writes  a  Canadian  of  ex- 
perience, the  greatest  difficulty  and  annoyance 


WATER  TRAPPING.  259 

the  trapper  has  to  contend  against  is  the  vary- 
ing depths  of  the  water  caused  by  the  melting  of 
the  snows  during  the  day  and  the  running  down 
of  the  levels  during  the  frosty  nights.  This,  of 
course,  applies  more  to  rivers  than  to  lakes,  but 
as  the  rivers  open  so  much  earlier  than  the 
lakes  it  is  on  them  the  early  trapping  is  prose- 
cuted. It  is  most  exasperating  to  visit  one's  trap 
in  the  morning  and  find  by  the  signs  that  the 
beaver  or  otter  had  paid  his  visit  and  that  the 
trap  was  out  of  order  by  being  a  couple  of  feet 
under  water,  or  high  and  dry  up  the  bank. 

To  avoid  this  close  observation  of  the  work- 
ing of  the  water  must  be  taken  note  of  by  the 
trapper.  Weather  conditions  is  a  factor  to  be 
reckoned  with.  A  rainy  night  and  a  cold  frosty 
one  have,  of  course,  different  effects,  and  must 
be  considered  with  all  their  bearings  by  the 
would-be  successful  trapper.  The  best  time  to 
make  a  set  or  final  adjustment  of  one's  trap  is 
as  late  in  the  afternoon  as  possible.  Then  one 
sees  how  much  the  stream  has  risen  since  morn- 
ing, and  calculate  by  his  judgment  how  much  it 
will  recede  during  the  coming  frosty  night.  Or 
if  rain  has  set  in  or  is  imminent  before  morning, 
hoAv  much  further  the  rise  will  be. 

With  these  daily  and  nightly  variations  of 
the  water,  of  course,  traps  must  be  visited  each 
morning  and  evening.  It  is  therefore  good  poli- 


260 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


g 

s 

o 


WATER  TRAPPING.  261 

cy  at  every  early  visit  to  make  a  level  mark  near 
each  set,  whereby  in  the  evening  when  the  trap 
is  to  be  properly  adjusted,  the  day's  changes  can 
be  noticed  with  accuracy.  Small  streams,  of 
course,  fluctuate  more  than  large  rivers,  the  lat- 
ter generally  showing  a  steady  increase  in  vol- 
ume from  the  beginning  of  the  break-up  until  the 
lake  ice  is  all  melted.  There  are  many  tributaries 
of  large  streams  that  one  can  easily  jump  across 
early  in  the  morning,  after  a  sharp  frosty  night, 
which  are  positively  raging  torrents  at  sun- 
down. On  streams  with  such  wide  variances  in 
depth,  trapping  is  almost  impossible.  At  all 
events,  a  good  deal  rests  on  chance.  One  has  to 
manage  his  trap  with  a  large  amount  of  guess 
work.  Streams  with  a  breadth  of  an  acre  or  so 
move  up  and  down  -with  a  greater  degree  of  uni- 
formity, and  the  trapper  who  pays  close  atten- 
tion to  the  movements  of  the  water  and  weather 
conditions  can  set  his  trap  pretty  accurately  for 
business.  A  river  such  as  I  have  mentioned  last, 
whose  feeders  are  a  considerable  distance  up 
stream,  generally  falls  a  third  of  what  it  rose 
during  the  daytime.  Thus,  if  you  find  that  since 
morning  the  level  has  risen  nine  inches  it  will 
be  safe  to  set  your  trap  six  inches  under  water. 
By  this  calculation  there  would  be  three  inches 
over  the  jaws  at  the  lowest  ebb  next  morning,  the 
night  before  being  cold  and  dry. 


262  STEEL  TRAPS. 

I  have  caught  both  otter  and  beaver  in  traps 
set  on  a  half  submerged  log,  a  place  which  makes 
an  ideal  set  on  waters  that  are  liable  to  vary  in 
height,  as  the  log  moves  with  the  change  of  height 
and  the  trap  is  always  in  order.  Another  good 
place  for  a  trap  is  on  a  floating  island  when  such 
can  be  found,  but  these  favorable  places  are  not 
always  obtainable.  A  beaver  or  otter  will  be 
caught  in  deeper  water  in  the  spring  than  in 
the  fall.  In  the  spring  they  swim  about  with 
more  vigor  and  consequently  displace  more  water 
in  front  of  their  breasts,  their  feet  thereby,  set- 
ting off  the  pan  in  what  would  at  other  seasons 
be  too  deep  water. 

A  piece  of  castorum  is  the  general  lure  used 
by  most  trappers  for  the  animals  I  am  treating 
of.  In  fact  castorum  is  used,  for  almost  any  ani- 
mal. But  a  stronger  "draw"  for  beaver  or  otter 
is  a  drop  or  two  from  the  scent  bag  of  the  animal. 
The  contents  of  this  sac  can  be  emptied  into  a 
small  vial  and  carried  about  in  the  trapper's 
pocket  to  be  used  when  required. 

A  small  twig  dipped  in  this  and  stuck  in  the 
bank  back  of  the  trap  will  cause  any  otter  or 
beaver  swimming  past  to  come  straight  for  the 
trap,  regardless  of  consequences. 

In  setting  a  trap  for  these  animals  care  must 
always  be  taken  to  douce  all  about  the  trap  be- 
fore leaving.  This  can  be  done  from  the  canoe 


WATER  TRAPPING.  263 

or  boat  by  flipping  water  with  the  flat  of  the 
paddle.  A  difficulty  in  setting  spring  traps  is 
the  planting  of  a  picket  to  hold  the  trap.  The 
banks  are  generally  frozen  even  for  considerable 
distance  under  water,  and  driving  a  picket  or 
stake  is  impossible.  One  good  way  to  overcome 
tliis  condition  when  procurable  is  to  fasten  the 
trap  chain  to  a  good  sized  flat  stone.  Have  a 
wire  from  this  to  the  shore  tied  to  some  willow 
or  root,  and  if  anything  is  caught,  with  the  wire 
you  can  drag  everything  ashore. 

When  stones  are  not  to  be  procured  a  young 
spruce  can  be  cut  ten  or  twelve  feet  long  of  a 
size  at  the  butt  that  the  trap  chain  ring  will 
pass  over.  Leave  a  good  tuft  of  the  head 
branches,  removing  all  the  rest  down  to  the  butt. 
The  ring  thus  being  assured  of  a  clear  run  down 
to  the  tuft,  the  trap  is  set  and  the  end  of  the  pole 
made  secure  to  the  bank  either  by  a  piece  of  wire 
or  by  a  cord.  If  the  latter,  care  must  be  used  to  tie 
close  down  to  the  prong  and  the  cord  carefully 
covered  with  mud  or  something  else  to  hide  it 
from  rabbits  or  other  animals  that  would  surely 
gnaw,  thereby  endangering  the  loss  of  your  trap 
and  animal. 

Trapping,  like  everything  else,  to  make  it  a 
success,  must  have  proper  attention.  A  man  who 
a  trap  haphazard  and  visits  it  only  occa- 
sionally cannot  expect  to  be  very  successful. 


264  STEEL  TRAPS. 


SALT  SET. 

I  use  both  the  bait  and  blind  set ;  the  water 
set  I  think  is  the  best,  that  is,  in  bitter  cold 
weather  when  the  ice  is  thick.  My  way  of  mak- 
ing, I  call  it  the  ice  set,  writes  an  interested 
trapper,  is  to  take  a  piece  of  oil  cloth  or  an  old 
buggy  top  cover  will  do,  and  put  about  5  pounds 
of  salt  in  same  and  sew  it  up,  having  it  about  2 
inches  thick.  Don't  make  it  too  solid,  leave  it 
loose  enough  so  you  can  work  the  most  of  the 
salt  around  the  edges  to  bed  the  trap  in. 

Now  puncture  with  a  needle  to  let  the  fumes 
of  salt  through;  cut  a  hole  through  the  ice  at 
edge  of  the  water,  scrape  out  hole  to  bed  salt  in ; 
but  first  put  a  stone  in  the  hole  and  bottom  and 
side  it  up  with  stones  to  keep  the  mud  from 
clogging  the  needle  holes.  Now  you  will  wonder 
what  the  salt  is  for;  simply  to  keep  the  ice  from 
freezing  the  hole  shut.  I  had  nine  of  that  kind 
of  sets  last  winter  and  trapped  7  mink.  The 
hole  will  never  freeze  shut.  Always  set  trap  un- 
der water. 

Last  winter  i  told  my  better  half  that  I  had 
better  take  my  traps  out  of  the  run  where  I  trap, 
as  I  couldn't  make  a  water  set,  because  they 
froze  up  over  night.  She  said,  "Why  don't  you 
put  salt  around  your  traps?"  That  put  me  to 
thinking  so  I  got  an  old  piece  of  oil  cloth  and 


WATER  TRAPPING.  265 

got  her  to  make  four  bags  for  me  on  the  sewing 
machine;  I  put  a  sack  of  salt,  5  pounds  in  each 
one,  and  used  them  as  I  have  described. 

BAD   WATERS. 

The  marshy  lands  that  are  tributary  to  the 
Atlantic  extend  for  hundreds  of  miles  along  the 
Maryland  shore  of  Chesapeake  Bay.  These  lands 
are  sometimes  entirely  covered  with  a  brackish 
water  forced  up  by  the  tides  from  the  sea,  while 
at  other  times  they  are  covered  by  the  fresh 
water  brought  down  by  the  flooded  rivers  from 
the  higher  lands  of  the  back  country. 

Upon  these  vast  extents  of  boggy  wastes  large 
numbers  of  fur  bearing  animals,  mostly  musk- 
rats  are  annually  caught,  and  many  trappers 
make  a  good  living  from  the  fur  and  the  meat 
which  as  "Marsh  Rabbit"  is  served  at  the  Bon 
Ton  restaurants  of  the  neighboring  cities. 

The  water  of  these  marshes  varies  much  in 
its  component  parts  at  different  places  on  the 
coast,  caused  by  the  varying  qualify  of  the 
streams  which  flow  through  them.  This  is 
plainly  shown  by  its  effect  upon  the  traps  used 
by  the  trappers  of  the  different  localities.  While 
in  some  places  the  springs  will  stand  apparently 
as  well  as  in  fresh  water  streams,  in  others  they 
break  very  badly. 


266 


WATER  TRAPPING. 


267 


Formerly  at  one  point  known  as  the  "Black 
Water"  region  the  trappers  often  lost  nearly 
one-half  their  springs  in  a  few  days  trapping, 
owing  to  the  action  of  this  peculiar  water.  Just 
what  the  cause  of  this  action  is  has  not  yet  been 
fully  determined. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

WHEN   TO  TRAP. 

HE  proper  season  to  begin  trap- 
ping is  when  cold  weather  comes. 
The  old  saying  that  fur  is  good 
any  month  that  has  an  "R"  in 
does  not  hold  good  except  in  the 
North.  Even  there  September  is 
too  early  to  begin,  yet  muskrat 
and  skunk  are  worth  something  as  well  as  other 
furs.  In  the  spring  April  is  the  last  month  with 
an  "R."  In  most  sections  muskrat,  bear,  beaver, 
badger  and  otter  are  good  all  thru  April,  but 
other  animals  began  shedding  weeks  before. 

The  rule  for  trappers  to  follow  is  to  put  off 
trapping  in  the  fall  until  nights  are  frostly  and 
the  ground  freezes. 

Generally  speaking  in  Canada  and  the  more 
Northern  States  trappers  can  begin  about  No- 
vember 1  and  should  cease  March  1,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  water  animals,  bear  and  badger, 
which  may  be  trapped  a  month  later.  In  the 
Central  and  Southern  States  trappers  should 
not  begin  so  early  and  should  leave  off  in  the 
spring  from  one  to  four  weeks  sooner  —  depend- 
ing upon  how  far  South  they  are  located. 

268 


N  TO  TRAP.  269 


At  the  interior  Hudson  Bay  posts,  where 
their  word  is  law,  October  25  is  appointed  to 
begin  and  May  25th  to  quit  hunting  and  trap-- 
ping with  the  exception  of  bear,  which  are  con- 
sidered prime  up  to  June  10.  Remember  that 
the  above  dates  are  for  the  interior  or  Northern 
H.  B.  Posts,  which  are  located  hundreds  of 
miles  north  of  the  boundary  between  the  United 
States  and  Canada, 

The  skunk  is  the  first  animal  to  become 
prime,  then  the  coon,  marten,  fisher,  mink  and 
fox,  but  the  latter  does  not  become  strictly  prime 
until  after  a  few  days  of  snow,  says  an  old 
Maine  trapper.  Eats  and  beaver  are  late  in 
priming  up  as  well  as  otter  and  mink,  and  tho 
the  mink  is  not  strictly  a  land  animal,  it  be- 
comes prime  about  with  the  later  land  animals. 
The  bear,  which  is  strictly  a  land  animal,  is  not 
in  good  fur  until  snow  conies  and  not  strictly 
prime  until  February  or  March. 


With  the  first  frosts  and  cool  days  many 
trappers  begin  setting  and  baiting  their  traps. 
That  it  is  easier  to  catch  certain  kinds  of  fur- 
.  bearing  animals  early  in  the  season  is  known  to 
most  trappers  and  for  this  reason  trapping  in 
niost  localities  is  done  too  early  in  the  season. 

Some  years  ago  when  trapping  was  done  even 


270 


WHEN  TO  TRAP.  271 

earlier  than  now,  we  examined  mink  skins  that 
were  classed  as  No.  4  and  worth  10  or  15  cents, 
that,  had  they  been  allowed  to  live  a  few  weeks 
longer,  their  hides  would  have  been  No.  1  and 
worth,  according  to  locality,  from  $1.50  to  $3.50 
each.  This  early  trapping  is  a  loss  to  the  trap- 
per if  they  will  only  pause  and  think.  There  are 
only  so  many  animals  in  a  locality  to  be  caught 
each  winter  and  why  catch  them  before  their 
fur  is  prime? 

In  the  latitude  of  Southern  Ohio,  Indiana, 
Illinois,  etc.,  skunk  caught  in  the  month  of  Oc- 
tober are  graded  back  from  one  to  three  grades 
(and  even  sometimes  into  trash),  where  if  they 
were  not  caught  until  November  15th  how  dif- 
ferent would  be  the  classification.  The  same  is 
true  of  opossum,  mink,  muskrat,  coon,  fox,  etc. 


Skunk  are  one  of  the  animals  that  become 
prime  first  each  fall.  The  date  that  they  become 
prime  depends  much  on  the  weather.  Fifteen 
years  ago,  when  trapping  in  Southern  Ohio,  the 
writer  has  sold  skunk  at  winter  prices  caught  as 
early  as  October  16,  while  other  seasons  those 
caught  the  7th  of  November,  or  three  weeks 
later,  blued  and  were  graded  back.  Am  glad  to 
say  that  years  ago  I  learned  not  to  put  out  traps 
until  November. 


272  STEEL  TRAPS. 

That  the  weather  has  much  to  do  with  the 
priming  of  furs  and  pelts  there  is  no  question. 
If  the  fall  is  colder  than  usual  the  furs  will  be- 
come prime  sooner,  while  if  the  freezing  weather 
is  later  the  pelts  will  be  later  in  "priming  up." 

In  the  sections  where  weasel  turn  white 
(then  called  ermine  by  many),  trappers  have  a 
good  guide.  When  they  become  white  they  are 
prime  and  so  are  most  other  land  animals.  In 
fact,  some  are  fairly  good  u  week  or  two  before. 

When  a  pelt  is  put  on  the  stretcher  and  be- 
comes blue  in  a  few  days  it  is  far  from  prime 
and  will  grade  no  better  than  No.  2.  If  the  pelt 
turns  black  the  chances  are  that  the  pelt  will 
grade  No.  3  or  4.  In  the  case  of  mink,  when 
dark  spots  only  appear  on  the  pelt,  it  is  not  quite 
prime. 

Trappers  and  hunters  should  remember  that 
no  pelt  is  prime  or  No.  1  when  it  turns  the  least- 
blue.  Opossum  skins  seldom  turn  blue  even  if 
caught  early  —  most  other  skins  do, 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

SOME   DEEP   WATER   SETS. 

HEN  the  rivers  and  lakes  are 
fast  bound  with  the  grip  of 
winter,  it  is  not  always  con- 
venient to  find  a  suitable 
place  to  set  a  beaver  or  ot- 
ter trap  under  the  ice,  says 
Martin  Hunter  in  the  H-T-T.  The  shore  line 
may  drop  away  into  too  deep  water  to  set  at  the 
bank,  or,  it  may  be  uneven  rocks  which  preclude 
the  possibility  of  making  a  safe  and  sure  set. 

When  such  conditions  confront  the  trapper, 
it  is  good  to  know  how  to  set  a  trap  in  deep 
water.  It  was  a  Mic-Mac  Indian  who  showed 
me  how  and  on  several  occasions  I  have  found 
the  knowledge  very  useful  and  profitable.  In 
fact,  more  than  once  had  I  not  known  this,  the 
conditions  were  such  that  it  would  have  been 
utterly  impossible  for  me  to  have  set  in  the  usual 
way.  In  after  years,  during  my  sojourn  amongst 
Montagnais,  Algonquins  and  Ojbway  Indians,  I 
never  came  across  any  trapper  of  these  tribes 
who  knew  how  to  set  a  trap  in  deep  water. 

For  beaver  especially,  what  better  place  than 
in  the  proximity  of  their  lodge?  And  what  more 
successful  time  than  in  January  or  February, 

18  273 


274  STEEL  TRAPS. 

when  their  winter  supply  of  wood  has  become 
sodden  and  slimy  from  months  of  submersion. 

Then  cut  an  opening  in  the  ice,  off  from  the 
lodge  entrance,  and  introduce  a  birch  or  popple 
sapling  into  the  hole,  cover  the  opening  up  with 
snow  and  come  back  in  a  couple  of  days,  chisel 
about  the  protruding  sticks  and  pull  them  out. 
Oh!  where  are  they?  You  will  find  only  the 
stumps  in  your  hand.  The  beaver  has  come  and 
cut  the  succulent  young  trees  off  close  to  the 
under  surface  of  the  ice  and  towed  them  away 
to  his  lodge.  Now,  if  you  could  only  set  a  trap 
there  and  place  more  flesh  food  you  would  most 
likely  get  that  beaver,  but  the  water  is  deep. 
Your  baiting  hole  is  away  from  the  shore  thirty 
or  forty  feet  and  you  measure  the  depth  and 
find  six  or  seven  feet  of  water.  Again  you  scratch 
your  head  and  are  sore  perplexed. 

But,  my  fellow  trappers,  it  is  right  here  where 
I  step  in  and  show  you  the  way  to  overcome  the 
difficulty.  Had  I  not  caught  beaver  under  such 
conditions  I  would  not  presume  to  teach  others, 
but  I  have  trapped  them  this  way  and  always 
with  success.  And  as  for  otter,  setting  in  deep 
water  is  much  surer  than  at  an  opening  in  a  dam 
or  other  place  which  is  likely  to  freeze  up  and 
put  the  trap  out  of  order. 

Now  if  you  will  follow  me  I  will  describe  a 
"deep  water  set"  in  as  clear  a  way  as  possible, 


SOME  DEEP  WATER  SETS.  275 

So  that  any  ordinary  trapper  ought  to  be  able  to 
use  it  successfully.  Cut  a  trench  in  the  ice  thru 
to  clear  water,  fourteen  to  eighteen  inches  broad 
by  four  feet  long;  clear  this  hole  free  from  any 
floating  particles  of  ice,  cut  (dry  if  possible)  a 
young  spruce  or  tamarac,  twelve  to  fifteen  feet 
long.  Have  it  three  or  four  inches  in  diameter 
at  the  butt  end,  branch  it  off  from  end  to  end 
and  rub  off  with  axe  blade  all  loose  bark. 

Introduce  the  small  end  into  the  water 
obliquely,  shoving  it  down  in  the  mud  or  sand, 
of  the  bottom,  with  the  butt  end  resting  on  the 
ice  at  one  end  of  the  opening.  If  the  pole  is  too 
long  to  get  the  proper  angle,  take  it  out  and  cut 
off  the  surplus.  This  dry  pole  is  to  set  the  trap 
on  and  has  to  be  at  the  proper  incline  so  that 
when  the  beaver  is  swimming  while  cutting  the 
bait  sticks,  he  sets  off  the  trap.  When  the  pole  is 
in  the  proper  position,  mark  with  your  axe  or 
chisel  about  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  under  the 
level  of  the  water. 

Now  take  out  the  pole  and  hew  a  flat  surface, 
at  the  spot  previously  marked,  about  a  foot  long. 
Slant  your  pole  sideways  and  drive  in  the  corner 
of  your  axe  half  an  inch  under  the  hewed  flat 
surface,  drive  the  axe  until  the  pole  is  almost 
split  in  twain.  If  the  opening  wants  to  close 
back  too  tight,  introduce  a  small  sliver  of  wood. 
Now  set  your  No.  4  trap;  run  the  ring  up  the 


276 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


pole  above  where  the  trap  is  to  rest  and  secure  it 
there  with  a  piece  of  wire  or  a  small  staple. 
Force  the  spear  part  of  the  bottom  of  the  trap 
into  the  split,  chuck  up  to  the  main  bottom  part 
that  engages  the  ends  of  the  jaw.  The  trap  is 
now  in  place. 


DEEP  WATER   SET  TRAP  FASTENING. 


When  there  is  a  muddy  or  sandy  bottom,  the 
better  way  is  to  allow  enough  length  of  pole 
to  bury  a  foot  or  so  into  the  bottom.  This  will 
hold  the  pole  secure  and  prevent  rolling.  Now 
take  two  nice,  young,  juicy  popple  or  young 
birch,  branch  them  off  clear  to  the  small  end  and 


SOME  DEEP  WATER  SETS.  277 

have  them  six  to  nine  feet  long;  put  them  in 
small  end  first  and  place  one  on  each  side  of 
trap,  five  inches  from  it  and  about  the  same 
above.  These  pieces  of  food  wood  can  be  kept 
in  proper  place  by  packing  the  butt  ends  down 
on  the  solid  ice  and  putting  snow  and  water  on 
top. 

If  it  is  at  all  cold  it  will  get  solid  in  a  feAV 
moments.  Next  process  is  to  cut  fifteen  or  twen- 
ty young  spruce  trees  a  couple  of  inches  in  diam- 
eter and  about  five  feet  long ;  place  these  straight 
up  and  down  outside  the  popple  wood.  This 
will  form  a  fence  at  each  side  with  spaces  four 
inches  apart.  Right  up  at  the  end  where  all 
your  work  centers,  a  few  dry  branches  can  be 
forced  in  and  down* to  prevent  the  animal  from 
cutting  away  the  food  from  the  back.  With  a 
little  practice  you  can  have  all  this  fixed  to  a 
nicety. 

The  beaver  entering  from  the  lower  slope 
of  the  wood  and  swimming  up  to  gnaw  the  sticks 
close  to  the  ice,  sets  off  the  trap  and  in  his  strug- 
gles he  pulls  it  clear  from  the  cleft  and  in  a  few 
moments  is  drowned.  After  all  is  in  shape  the 
opening  in  the  ice  is  dusted  over  with  snow  and 
left  to  freeze. 

In  visiting  the  trap  at  the  end  of  two  or  three 
days,  it  is  only  necessary  to  chisel  a  very  small 
bole  to  see  if  the  trap  or  bait  are  displaced.  This 


278  STEEL  TRAPS. 

can  be  readily  ascertained  by  lying  flat  on  the 
ice,  partly  cover  your  head  with  your  coat  or 
blanket  and  with  your  face  close  to  the  hole  all 
objects  in  a  few  moments  will  become  clear. 

For  otter  set,  the  trap  pole  is  made  in  the 
same  way,  but  instead  of  popple  or  birch,  a  small 
fish  is  used  for  bait.  Skewer  it  from  the  dorsal 
fin  thru  to  the  stomach  and  suspend  it  above 
and  back  of  the  trap  at  the  proper  distance.  As 
it  appears  in  its  natural  position  in  the  water 
and  the  skewer  is  hardly  visible,  an  otter  swim- 
ming past  takes  it  for  a  live  fish  and  in  dashing 
for  his  meal  gets  caught. 

I  have  found  this  set  very  successful  in  creeks 
and  small  rivers,  even  in  setting  out  from  the 
shore. 

Otters,  like  mink,  have  their  feeding  grounds 
on  lakes  and  connecting  rivers  and  are  sure  to 
skirt  the  shores  in  swimming  down  or  up  stream. 
If  the  stream  is  very  broad  it  will  be  as  well  to 
have  a  trap  on  each  shore  and  thus  enchance  the 
certainty  of  getting  his  fur. 

The  best  fish  for  an  otter  set  is  white  fish  or 
trout  a  pound  and  a  half  to  two  pounds.  By 
changing  the  bait  once  a  w^eek  your  trap  can  be 
kept  set  all  winter  without  getting  out  of  order. 

Back  of  this  article  I  mentioned  "chisel.9'  A 
chisel  is  almost  a  necessity  to  a  trapper,  especi- 
ally if  the  ice  is  thick.  With  only  an  axe  the 


SOME  DEEP  WATER  SETS. 


279 


trapper  gets  splashed  all  over  and  when  this 
freezes  he  is  in  a  most  uncomfortable  state.    A 


SKINNING   A    BOB    CAT. 


good  strong  ice  chisel  can  be  had  in  the  ordinary 
one  and  a  half-inch  carpenter's  mortising  chisel. 
Have  a  hole  drilled  thru  both  sides  of  the  socket 


280  STEEL  TRAPS. 

about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  from  the  rim, 
carry  a  stout  screw  in  your  pocket  and  the  chisel 
in  your  bag  or  bundle. 

When  necessary  to  use  the  chisel  for  ice 
trenching,  cut  a  dry  sound  young  sapling,  six 
feet  long,  take  off  most  of  the  bark  and  point  the 
end  the  required  length  and  shape  off  the  socket 
by  knocking  the  end  of  the  handle  against  a  near- 
by tree  or  rock.  The  chisel  becomes  firmly  fixed. 
Now  introduce  the  screw  into  one  of  the  holes 
and  with  your  axe  bang  it  clear  thru  and  out 
on  the  other  side.  The  screw  used  for  this  pur- 
pose should  be  one  and  three-quarters  inches 
long. 

When  finished  with  your  chisel,  if  not  likely 
to  be  required  again  at  that  place,  it  may  be 
chopped  off  the  handle  and  at  your  first  fire  the 
socket  part  can  be  placed  in  hot  ashes  or  close 
to  the  blaze  until  the  wood  stump  is  so  charred 
that  it  will  readily  scrape  out,  securing  the  screw 
for  another  time.  Ice  chisels  are  indispensible 
to  any  one  trapping  beaver,  otter  or  mink,  and 
no  Indian  would  consider  his  outfit  complete 
without  one.  I  have  seen  them  made  out  of  the 
prong  of  a  deer  antler.  This  was  before  the  im- 
ported article  was  introduced  into  the  far  back 
country.  The  horn  was  sharpened  to  a  cutting 
edge  at  the  business  end  and  the  shank  lashed 
to  the  handle  with  deer  skin  thongs. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

SKINNING  AND  STRETCHING. 


importance  should  be  at- 
tached to  the  skinning  and 
stretching  of  all  kinds  of  skins 
so  as  to  command  the  highest 
commercial  value.  The  fisher, 
otter,  foxes,  lynx,  marten,  mink, 
ermine,  civet,  cats  and  skunk  should  be  cased, 
that  is,  taken  off  whole. 

Commence  with  the  knife  in  the  center  of  one 
hind  foot  and  slit  up  the  inside  of  the  leg,  up  to 
and  around  the  vent  and  down  the  other  leg  in 
a  like  manner.  Cut  around  the  vent,  taking 
care  not  to  cut  the  lumps  or  glands  in  which 
the  musk  of  certain  animals  is  secreted,  then 
strip  the  skin  from  the  bone  of  the  tail  with 
the  aid  of  a  split  stick  gripped  firmly  in  the 
hand  while  the  thumb  of  the  other  hand  presses 
against  the  animal's  back  just  above.  Make  no 
other  slits  in  the  skin  except  in  the  case  of  the 
skunk  and  otter,  whose  tails  require  to  be  split, 
spread,  and  tacked  on  a  board. 

Turn  the  skin  back  over  the  body,  leaving 
the  pelt  side  out  and  the  fur  side  inward,  and 
by  cutting  a  few  ligaments,  it  will  peel  off  very 
readily.  Care  should  be  taken  to  cut  closely 

281 


282 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


around  the  nose,  ears  and  lips,  so  as  not  to  tear 
the  skin.  Have  a  board  made  about  the  size 
and  shape  of  the  three-board  stretcher,  only  not 
split  in  halves.  This  board  is  to  put  the  skin 
over  in  order  to  hold  it  better  while  removing 
particles  of  fat  and  flesh  which  adheres  to  it 


Single  Board 


Three  Board  Stretcher 

SINGLE    AND    THREE    BOARD    STRETCHER. 

while  skinning,  which  can  be  done  with  a  blunt- 
edged  knife,  by  scraping  the  skin  from  the  tail 
down  toward  the  nose  —  the  direction  in  which 
the  hair  roots  grow  —  never  scrape  up  the  other 
way  or  you  will  injure  the  fiber  of  the  skin,  and 
care  should  be  taken  not  to  scrape  too  hard,  for 
if  the  skin  fiber  is  injured  its  value  is  decreased, 


SKINNING  AND  STRETCHING.  283 

Now,  having  been  thoroughly  "fleshed,"  as 
the  above  process  is  called,  the  skin  is  ready  for 
stretching,  which  is  done  by  inserting  the  two 
halves  of  the  three-board  stretcher  and  drawing 
the  skin  over  the  boards  to  its  fullest  extent, 
with  the  back  on  one  side  and  the  belly  on  the 
other,  and  tacking  it  fast  by  driving  in  a  small 
nail  an  inch  or  so  from  each  side  of  the  tail  near 
the  edges  of  the  skin;  also,  in  like  manner  the 
other  side.  Now  insert  the  wedge  and  drive  it 
between  the  halves  almost  its  entire  length. 
Care  should  be  taken,  however,  to  not  .stretch 
the  skin  so  much  as  to  make  the  fur  appear  thin 
and  thus  injure  its  value.  Now  put  a  nail  in  the 
root  of  the  tail  and  fasten  it  to  the  wedge ;  also, 
draw  up  all  slack  parts  and  fasten.  Care  should 
be  taken  to  have  both  sides  of  the  skin  of  equal 
length,  which  can  be  done  by  lapping  the  leg 
flippers  over  each  other.  Now  draw  up  the 
under  lip  and  fasten,  and  pull  the  nose  down 
until  it  meets  the  lip  and  tack  it  fast,  and  then 
the  skin  is  ready  to  hang  away  to  cure. 

Do  not  dry  skins  at  a  fire  or  in  the  sun,  or  in 
smoke.  It  often  burns  them  when  they  will  not 
dress  and  are  of  no  value.  Dry  in  a  well-cov- 
ered shed  or  tent  where  there  is  a  free  circula- 
tion of  air,  and  never  use  any  preparation,  such 
as  alum  and  salt,  as  it  only  injures  them  for 
market.  Never  stretch  the  noses  out  long,  as 


284  STEEL  TRAPS. 

some  trappers  are  inclined  to  do,  but  treat  them 
as  above  described,  and  they  will  command  bet- 
ter values.  Fur  buyers  are  inclined  to  class 
long-nosed  skins  as  "southern''  and  pay  a  small 
price  for  them,  as  Southern  skins  are  much 
lighter  in  fur  than  those  of  the  North. 

The  badger,  beaver,  bear,  raccoon  and  wolf 
must  always  be  skinned  "open ;"  that  is,  ripped 
up  the  belly  from  vent  to  chin  after  the  follow- 
ing manner:  Cut  across  the  hind  legs  as  if  to 
be  "cased"  and  then  rip  up  the  belly.  The  skin 
can  then  be  removed  by  flaying  as  in  skinning  a 

beef. 

*        *        * 

Another  experienced  trapper  says :  The  ani- 
mals which  should  be  skinned  open  are  bear, 
beaver,  raccoon,  badger,  timber  wolf  and  wolver- 
ines. The  way  to  do  this  is  to  rip  the  skin  open 
from  the  point  of  the  lower  jaw,  in  a  straight 
line,  to  the  vent.  Then  rip  it  open  on  the  back 
of  the  hind  legs,  and  the  inside  of  the  front 
legs,  and  peel  the  skin  carefully  off  the  body, 
Beaver,  however,  should  not  have  the  front  legs 
split  open  and  the  tail,  having  no  fur,  is  of 
course  cut  off.  If  the  skin  is  a  fine  one,  and 
especially  in  the  case  of  bear,  the  feet  should 
not  be  cut  off,  but  should  be  skinned,  leaving 
the  claws  on.  I  would  also  advise  saving  the 
,skull,  and  thp  proper  way  to  clean  it  is  to  scraps 


SKINNING  AND  STRETCHING.  285 

the  flesh  off  with  a  knife.  When  the  animal  is 
skinned,  roll  the  skin  up  with  the  fur  side  out 
and  put  it  in  your  pack. 

See  that  there  are  no  burrs  or  lumps  of  mud 
in  the  fur,  before  you  do  any  fleshing.  My  way 
of  fleshing  furs  —  there  may  be  better  ways- 
is  to  draw  the  skin  over  a  smooth  board,  made 
for  the  purpose  and  scraping,  or  peeling,  with  a 
blunt  edged  knife.  Commence  at  the  tail,  and 
scrape  towards  the  head,  otherwise  you  may  in- 
jure the  fibre  of  the  hide.  Over  the  back  and 
shoulders  of  most  animals  is  a  thin  layer  of 
flesh.  This  should  be  removed,  and  when  done, 
there  should  be  nothing  remaining  but  the  skin 
and  fur.  Kaccoon  and  muskrat  are  easily  fleshed 
by  pinching  the  flesh  between  the  edge  of  the 
knife  and  the  thumb. 

For  stretching  boards,  I  prefer  a  three  board 
stretcher,  but  a  plain  board  will  answer.  For 
muskrats,  use  a  single  board.  Open  skins  are 
best  stretched  in  frames  or  hoops,  but  it  is  all 
right  to  stretch  them  on  the  wall  on  the  inside 
of  a  building.  The  boards  shown  in  the  cut  are, 
to  my  notion,  the  proper  shapes,  and  I  would 
advise  making  a  good  supply  of  them  before 
the  season  commences. 

To  use  these  three  board  stretchers,  insert 
the  two  halves  of  the  board  in  the  skin,  draw 
the  skin  down  and  fasten  the  hind  legs,  with 


ID 


Lynx 


Thre-e.  j>ie>c,&  l>o«.rj  with  Gross  strips 

(286) 


SKINNING  AND  STRETCHING.  287 

tacks,  to  the  edges  of  the  boards.  This  stretches 
the  hide  long.  Then  insert  the  wedge  between 
the  two  boards,  which  will  stretch  the  skin  out 
to  its  fullest  extent,  and  give  it  the  proper  shape. 
Finish  by  fastening  with  tacks,  pulling  the  nose 
over  the  point  of  the  board,  and  drawing  the 
skin  of  the  lower  jaw  up  against  the  nose.  Hang 
the  furs  in  a  cool,  dry  place  and  as  soon  as  they 
are  dry,  remove  them  from  the  boards.  Fox 
skins  should  be  turned  with  the  fur  side  out, 
after  removing  from  the  board. 

In  using  the  hoop  stretcher,  the  hide  is  laced 
inside  the  hoop,  with  twine,  the  skin  of  the  coon 
being  stretched  square  and  the  beaver  round. 
All  other  furs  should  be  stretched  so  as  not  to 
draw  them  out  of  their  natural  shape.  If  the 
weather  is  warm  and  the  furs  are  likely  to  taint, 
salt  them.  A  salted  skin  is  better  than  a  tainted 
one.  Put  salt  in  the  tail,  and  punch  a  hole  in 
the  end  of  the  tail,  with  a  pointed  wire,  to  let  the 
water  drain  out,  or  split  the  tail  up  about  one- 
half  inch  from  tip. 

The  skin  of  the  bear  is,  perhaps,  more  likely 
to  spoil  than  any  other,  and  the  ears  especially, 
are  likely  to  taint  and  slip  the  fur.  To  prevent 
this,  slit  the  ears  open  on  the  inside,  skin  them 
back  almost  to  the  edge  and  fill  them  with  salt, 
also  salt  the  base  of  the  ears,  on  the  flesh  side 
of  the  hide. 


288 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


In  stretching,  says  a  North  Dakota  trapper, 
we  use  a  one  board  stretcher  as  follows:  Put 
on  the  fur  after  you  have  fleshed  it,  the  four 
feet  on  one  side  and  the  tail  on  the  other.  Tack 


DAKOTA   TRAPPER'S    METHOD. 

down  the  hind  feet  and  the  tail,  then  take  a 
piece  of  board  about  1  x  J  inches  (this  would  be 
about  the  correct  size  for  a  mink)  rounded  off 
except  on  one  side.  Put  it  below  the  fur  on  the 


SKINNING  AND  STRETCHING. 


289 


side  where  the  feet  are,  tie  the  front  feet.  When 
you  are  going  to  take  off  the  fur,  pull  out  the 
small  board  and  the  fur  will  come  off  easy. 

A  contrivance  which  I  have  found  useful  in 
skinning  is  made  of  a  piece  of  stiff  wire  18 


HOLDER    FOR     SKINNING. 

inches  long.  Bend  this  at  the  middle  until  it  has 
the  shape  of  V  with  the  ends  about  8  inches 
apart.  Bend  up  an  inch  at  each  end  to  form 
a  hook  and  when  skinning,  after  cutting  around 
the  hind  feet,  hook  into  the  large  tendons,  hang 
on  a  nail  or  over  limb,  etc.,  and  go  ahead  with 

19 


290s  STEEL  TRAPS. 

both  hands.  The  wire  must  be  nearly  as  large 
as  a  slate  pencil  and  will  work  all  right  from 
foxes  down  to  mink.  Trappers  will  find  this  a, 
great  help  in  skinning  animals  after  they  have- 
become  cold.  Young  trappers  should  use  this: 
simple  device  as  they  will  be  less  liable  to  cut 
holes  in  the  skin.  It  pays  to  be  careful  in  skin- 
ning animals  properly  as  well  as  to  stretch  them 
correctly,  for  both  add  to  their  market  value. 

How  many  trappers  save  the  skulls  of  their 
larger  game?  All  the  skulls  of  bear,  puma  or 
mountain  lion,  wolves,  foxes  and  sometimes 
those  of  lynx  and  wild  cat  are  of  ready  sale  if 
they  contain  good  sets  of  teeth.  Several  parties 
buy  these  skulls  for  cash. 

To  prepare  them  the  bulk  of  the  flesh  should 
be  removed  and  the  brain  and  eyes  also.  Prob- 
ably the  easiest  way  to  accomplish  this  is  to  boil 
the  skull  with  flesh  on  in  an  old  pot  until  the 
meat  begins  to  get  tender.  Then,  while  hot,  it 
may  easily  be  cut  away,  and  by  enlarging  the 
hole  at  the  back  of  the  skull  the  brain  may  be 
scooped  out.  They  should  be  watched  carefully 
as  if  boiled  too  long  the  teeth  drop  out,  bones 
separate  and  render  the  skull  worthless.  It  is 
safe,  but  more  tedious  to  clean  them  with  a  sharp 
knife  without  boiling. 

The  dealers  pay  from  50c  for  a  bear  skull  to 
1 5c  for  a  fox,  tho  taxidermists  and  furriers  often 


SKINNING  AND  STRETCHING. 


291 


pay  much  more.  The  British  Columbia  Govern- 
ment pays  bounties  upon  the  skulls,  only  I  think 
this  is  a  good  idea  as  the  skins  are  not  mutilated 
and  depreciated  by  scalping,  punching  or  cut- 
ting as  usual.  Save  a  few  good  skulls  and  add 
dollars  to  the  value  of  your  catch. 
*  *  * 

Take  two  pieces  of  No.  9  fence  wire  about  30 
inches  long,   writes  an  Ohio   coon  hunter  and 


WIRE    COON    METHOD. 


trapper,  file  one  end  sharp,  then  commence  at 
each  hind  foot  and  punch  the  wire  thru  close  to 


292  STEEL  TRAPS. 

the  edge  as  in  sewing,  taking  stitches  an  inch  or 
so  long  until  you  get  to  the  front  foot,  then  pull 
the  hide  along  the  wire  just  far  enough  so  the 
top  and  bottom  will  stretch  out  to  make  it 
square,  or  a  few  inches  longer  than  the  width  is 
better. 

Put  3  or  4  nails  in  each  side,  then  commence 
at  the  top  and  tack  all  but  the  head,  then  pull 
the  bottom  down  even  with  the  sides,  not  tacking 
the  head,  which  lets  it  draw  down  into  the  hide, 
then  tack  the  head.  This  is  an  easy  and  good 
way  to  handle  coon  skins  making  them  nearly 
square  when  stretched. 

Many  inexperienced  trappers  stretch  coon 
skins  too  long  and  draw  out  the  head  and  neck. 
This  can  be  avoided  by  following  instructions 
given  here.  Coon  can  be  cased  but  most  dealers 
prefer  to  have  them  stretched  open. 


Get  a  lot  of  steel  wire,  says  a  Missouri  trap- 
per who  uses  old  umbrella  wires,  the  round  solid 
ones.  Sharpen  one  end,  take  your  coon  skin  and 
run  one  wire  up  each  side  and  one  across  each 
end. 

In  putting  these  wires  in  do  it  like  the  old 
woman  knits,  that  is,  wrap  the  hide  around  the 
wire  and  stick  it  thru  about  every  inch.  Now 
cut  six  small  twigs,  make  them  the  proper  length 


SKINNING  AND  STRETCHING. 


293 


and  notch  the  ends,  and  you  will  soon  have  your 
hide  stretched  expert  trapper  style. 

The  advantage  of  this  is  you  can  carry 
stretchers  enough  for  twenty-five  skins  in  one 
hand  and  don't  have  to  hunt  up  a  barn  door  and 


WIRE    AND    TWIG    COON    METHOD. 

box  of  tacks  and  hammer  every  time  you  want  to 
stretch  one.  You  can  stretch  in  one-fourth  the 
time  it  would  take  to  tack  up  on  a  board,  and 
you  will  have  it  in  first  class  style  the  first  time 
and  not  have  to  pull  out  a  tack  here  and  stretch 
a  little  more  there. 


294  STEEL  TRAPS. 

I  have  always  used  the  whole  board  (not  split 
into  two  pieces  and  a  wedged  shape  piece  as  some 
do),  writes  a  Massachusetts  trapper,  and  made 
as  follows : 

For  mink  I  use  a  f  inch  board  about  40  inches 
in  length,  4  inches  wide  at  the  large  end,  taper- 
ing to  about  2^  inches  at  the  small  end  with  the 
edges  planed  down  from  near  the  middle  of  the 
board  to  the  edge,  leaving  a  thin  edge  and  sand- 
papered down  smooth.  I  make  the  board  of  this 
length  for  the  reason  that  it  sometimes  happens 
that  a  mink  may  have  laid  in  a  trap  for  several 
days  before  being  taken  out,  and  if  under  water 
it  is  not  always  easy  to  determine  the  exact 
length  of  time  it  has  been  in  the  trap,  and  there 
may  be  a  possibility  that  if  put  on  the  board  to 
dry  that  having  laid  so  long  it  will  taint  before 
it  will  get  thoroughly  dry.  I  have  seen  them  in 
a  case  of  this  kind  where  several  and  perhaps 
nearly  all  the  hairs  on  the  end  of  the  tail  would 
shed  or  pull  out  thereby  damaging  the  skin  to  a 
greater  or  less  extent. 

Now  when  I  get  a  mink  in  this  condition  af- 
ter pulling  on  the  board  and  tacking  all  around, 
I  split  the  tail  open  after  which  I  lay  it  open  and 
tack  all  around  the  same  way  you  would  with  an 
otter  skin.  By  employing  this  means  you  will 
often  save  the  loss  of  the  tail  by  thus  tainting 
and  a  corresponding  loss  on  the  value  of  the  skin. 


SKINNING  AND  STRETCHING.  295 

The  value  of  the  mink  skin  is  in  no  way  damaged 
by  this  process.  Some  dealers  prefer  to  have  all 
the  skins  they  buy  cured  in  this  manner. 

For  stretching  the  muskrat  skin  I  also  use  a 
board  of  the  same  thickness  as  for  mink,  about 
20  inches  in  length,  6|  or  7  inches  at  the  large 
end  with  a  slightly  rounding  taper  to  a  width  of 
about  3  inches  at  small  end,  the  sides  planeci 
down  to  a  thin  edge  the  same  as  for  the  mink 
boards;  in  fact,  I  prefer  the  same  manner  of 
stretching  all  cased  skins,  using  care  not  to  have 
the  boards  so  wide  as  to  stretch  the  skins  to  a 
width  much  exceeding  the  natural  width  before 
it  was  placed  over  the  board,  but  giving  them  all 
the  strain  they  will  stand  with  reason,  length- 
wise. If  stretched  too  wide  it  tends  to  make  the 
fur  thinner  and  lessens  the  value  of  it. 

I  usually  pull  the  skins,  especially  muskrats, 
onto  the  boards  far  enough  so  that  the  smaller 
end  will  extend  through  the  mouth  of  the  skin 
for  perhaps  |  inch,  and  when  the  skins  are  suffi- 
ciently dry  to  remove,  all  that  is  required  is  to 
take  hold  of  them  with  a  hand  on  either  edge  of 
the  skin  and  give  it  a  sharp  tap  on  the  small  end, 
when  the  skin  will  come  off  at  once.  By  stretch- 
ing the  skins  on  the  boards  with  the  back  on  one 
side,  belly  on  the  opposite  side,  they  come  off 
the  boards  looking  smooth  and  uniform  in  width, 
and  command  a  great  deal  better  price  than  if 


296  STEEL  TRAPS. 

thrown  on  in  a  haphazard  way  on  a  shingle  or 
an  inch  board  badly  shaped,  as  a  great  many  be- 
ginners do.  I  have  seen  some  shameful  work 
done  in  this  respect. 

It  is  always  necessary  to  remove  all  surplus 
grease  and  fat  which  can  readily  be  done  imme- 
diately after  the  skin  is  stretched,  otherwise  they 
will  heat,  sweat  and  mold  to  a  certain  extent  af- 
ter they  are  removed  from  the  boards,  which  in- 
jures both  the  appearance  and  sale  of  them.  It 
is  well  to  look  after  all  these  little  details. 
These  descriptions  are  given  with  the  desire  to 
help  some  of  the  beginners.  If  they  will  start  in 
by  using  a  little  care  in  stretching  and  having 
pride  in  their  work  they  will  find  the  business 
both  more  pleasant  and  profitable. 


If  convenient  when  going  into  camp,  writes 
an  old  successful  trapper  who  has  pursued  the 
fur  bearers  in  many  states,  you  should  take  sev- 
eral stretching  boards  for  your  different  kinds 
of  fur  with  you.  If  not,  you  can  generally  find 
a  tree  that  will  split  good  and  you  can  split  some 
out.  It  is  usually  hard  to  find  widths  that  are 
long  and  straight  enough  to  bend  so  as  to  form  a 
good  shaped  stretcher.  You  should  always  aim 
to  stretch  and  cure  furs  you  catch  in  the  best 
manner. 


SKINNING  AND  STRETCHING.  297 

In  skinning  you  should  rip  the  animal 
straight  from  one  heel  across  to  the  other  and 
close  to  the  roots  of  the  tail  on  the  under  side. 
Work  the  skin  loose  around  the  bone  at  the  base 
until  you  can  grasp  the  bone  of  the  tail  with  the 
first  two  fingers  of  the  right  hand  while  you 
place  the  bone  between  the  first  two  fingers  of 
the  left  hand.  Then,  by  pulling  you  will  draw 
the  entire  bone  from  the  tail  which  you  should 
always  do. 

Sometimes  when  the  animal  has  been  dead 
for  some  time  the  bone  will  not  readily  draw 
from  the  tail.  In  this  case  cut  a  stick  the  size 
of  your  finger  about  eight  inches  long.  Cut  it 
awray  in  the  center  until  it  will  readily  bend  so 
that  the  two  ends  will  come  together.  Then  cut 
a  notch  in  each  part  of  stick  just  large  enough 
to  let  the  bone  of  the  tail  in  and  squeeze  it  out. 
It  is  necessary  to  whittle  one  side  of  the  stick 
at  the  notch  so  as  to  form  a  square  shoulder. 

You  should  have  about  three  sizes  of  stretch- 
ing boards  for  mink  and  fox.  For  mink  they 
should  be  from  4^  inches  down  to  3  inches  and 
for  fox  from  6i  inches  down  to  5  inches  wide, 
and  in  length  the  fox  boards  may  be  four  feet 
long,  and  the  mink  boards  three  feet  long. 

The  boards  should  taper  slightly  down  to 
within  8  inches  of  the  end  for  fox,  and  then 
rounded  up  to  a  round  point.  The  mink  boards 


298  STEEL  TRAPS. 

should  be  rounded  at  4  or  5  inches  from  this 
point.  You  will  vary  the  shape  of  the  board  in 
proportion  to  the  width.  Stretching  boards 
should  not  be  more  than  f  inch  thick.  A  belly 
strip  the  length  or  nearly  the  length  of  the 
boards  1|  inches  at  the  wide  end,  tapering  to 
a  point  at  the  other  end  and  about  J  to  f  inch 
thick.  Have  the  boards  smooth  and  even  on  the 
edges.  Other  stretching  boards  should  be  made 
in  proportion  to  the  size  and  shape  of  the  animal 
whose  skin  is  to  be  stretched. 

You  should  not  fail  to  remove  all  the  fat  and 
flesh  from  the  skin  immediately  after  the  skin  is 
on  the  board.  If  a  skin  is  wet  when  taken  from 
the  animal  it  should  be  drawn  lightly  on  a  board 
until  the  fur  is  quite  dry.  Then  turn  the  skin 
flesh  side  out  and  stretch. 


Beginning  at  the  left,  dimensions  and  skins 
stretched  on  the  various  boards  are  given : 

No.  1.  Mink  board,  length  28  inches  and  4 
wide. 

No.  2.  Mink  board,  length  28  inches  and  3^ 
wide. 

No.  3.  Weasel  board  length  20  inches  and 
2i  wide. 

No.  4.  Muskrat  board,  length  21  inches  and 
6  inches  wide. 


SKINNING  AND  STRETCHING. 


299 


No.  5.  Opossum  board,  (small),  length  20 
inches  and  6^  inches  wide. 

No.  6.  Skunk  or  opossum,  (medium),  length 
28  inches  and  7  inches  wide. 

No.  7.  Skunk  and  opossum,  (large),  length 
28  inches  and  8  inches  wide. 


SIZE  OF  STRETCHING  BOARDS. 

Old  and  experienced  hunters  and  trappers 
know  about  the  shape  and  size  to  make  the  vari- 
ous stretching  boards  for  the  fur  bearers,  but 
for  the  guidance  of  beginners  and  those  who  are 
careless  about  stretching  pelts,  the  above  de- 
scription is  especially  meant. 


300  STEEL  TRAPS. 

Trappers  in  Southern  sections  will  no  doubt 
find  the  boards  as  described  'here  too  large  for 
most  of  their  skunk.  In  the  Northeast  the  mink 
boards  will  also  be  too  large,  but  for  this  section 
(Ohio),  they  are  about  correct.  The  general 
shape  of  the  boards  can  be  seen  from  the  illus- 
tration. 

*         *         * 

One  of  the  best  ways,  writes  a  Minnesota 
trapper,  to  take  off  the  skin  of  an  animal  is  by 
cutting  the  skin  around  the  hind  legs  or  feet,  and 
then  slitting  the  skin  down  inside  the  hind  legs 
to  the  body  joining  the  two  slits  between  the  hind 
legs,  then  remove  the  skin  on  the  tail  by  push- 
ing up  the  thumb  nail,  or  a  thin  flat  piece  of 
wood  against  the  bone  of  the  tail  and  draw  off 
the  skin. 

Now  commence  to  draw  the  body  of  the  ani- 
mal through  the  slit  already  made  without  en- 
larging it,  drawing  th%  skin  over  itself,  the  fur 
side  within.  When  the  forefeet  are  reached,  cut 
the  skin  away  from  them  at  the  wrists,  and  then 
skin  over  the  head  until  the  mouth  is  reached 
when  the  skin  should  be  finally  removed  at  the 
lips. 

One  thing  to  be  borne  in  mind  when  stretch- 
ing a  skin  to  dry,  is  that  it  must  be  drawn  tight ; 
another,  that  it  must  be  stretched  in  a  place 
where  neither  the  heat  of  a  fire  or  that  of  the  sun 


SKINNING  AND   STRETCHING.  301 

will  reach  it  too  strongly,  and  it  should  not  be 
washed.  Large  skins  may  be  nailed  on  a  wall 
of  a  shed  or  barn. 

The  board  stretcher  should  be  made  of  some 
thin  material.  Prepare  a  board  of  bass  wood  or 
some  other  light  material,  two  feet  three  inches 
long,  three  inches  and  a  half  wide  at  one  end, 
and  two  inches  and  an  eighth  at  the  other,  and 
three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick.  Chamfer  it  from 
the  center  to  the  sides  almost  to  an  edge. 
Eound  and  chamfer  the  small  end  about  an  inch 
upon  the  sides.  Split  the  board  through  the 
center  with  a  knife  or  saw,  finally  prepare  a 
wedge  of  the  same  length  and  thickness,  one  inch 
wide  at  the  large  end,  and  taper  to  a  blunt  point. 
This  is  a  stretcher  suitable  for  a  mink,  or  a 
marten. 

Two  large  sizes  with  similar  proportions  are 
required  for  the  large  animals,  the  largest  size 
suitable  for  the  full  grown  otter  and  wolf, 
should  be  five  feet  and  a  half  long,  seven  inches 
wide  at  the  large  end  when  fully  spread  by  the 
wedge,  and  six  inches  at  the  small  end.  An  in- 
termediate size  is  required  for  the  fisher,  rac- 
coon, fox  and  some  other  animals,  the  propor- 
tions of  which  can  be  easily  figured  out. 

These  stretchers  require  that  the  skin  of  the 

fnimal  should  not  be  ripped  through  the  belly, 
ut  should  be  stripped  off  whole.     Peel  the  skin 
• 


302  STEEL  TRAPS. 

from  the  body  by  drawing  it  over  itself,  leaving 
the  fur  inward.  In  this  condition  the  skin 
should  be  drawn  on  to  the  split  board  (with  the 
back  on  one  side  and  the  belly  on  the  other),  to 
its  utmost  length,  and  fastened  with  tacks,  and 
then  the  wedge  should  be  driven  between  the  two 
halves.  Finally,  make  all  fast  by  a  tack  at  the 
root  of  the  tail,  and  another  on  the  opposite  side. 
The  skin  is  then  stretched  to  its  utmost  capacity 
and  it  may  be  hung  away  to  dry. 


Not  alone  the  skulls  of  the  larger  animals, 
but  the  skulls  of  any  game,  the  skeleton  of  any 
bird,  or  fish,  has  a  ready  market,  provided  such 
specimens  are  properly  cleaned,  and  in  perfect 
condition.  However,  the  hunter  or  trapper  must 
bear  in  mind  the  fact  that  it  is  the  perfect  speci- 
men that  is  in  demand,  and  that  a  bruise  on  the 
bone  literally  spoils  it  for  the  curator. 

If  you  will  look  carefully  at  any  skull,  you 
will  notice  that  some  of  the  bones  are  very  thin 
and  frail,  almost  like  a  spider  web.  These  fine 
bones  must  be  preserved  if  they  are  to  be  of  any 
value  to  the  Comparative  Anatomist,  and  boiling 
or  scraping  simply  ruins  them.  So  much  for 
the  explanation.  Now  the  method  of  cleaning, 
is  by  "rotting"  rather  than  scraping  or  boiling. 
Take  the  skull  (or  whole  head)  and  fix  it  solid  in 


SKINNING  AND   STRETCHING.  303 

some  can  or  jar,  then  fill  it,  or  cover  with  water 
and  put  away  for  three  or  four  weeks.  At  the 
end  of  that  time,  pour  off  the  water  and  the  bulk 
of  the  flesh  will  go  too.  Fill  in  with  clear  water 
again,  and  repeat  as  often  as  necessary.  I  have 
found  that  twice  will  do  the  work,  and  leave  the 
bone  in  good  condition. 

There  is  a  market  for  most  animal  skulls,  if 
not  damaged,  and  it  may  pay  to  preserve  all.  In 
the  Hunter-Trader-Trapper,  published  at  Colum- 
bus, Ohio,  usually  will  be  found  advertisements 
of  parties  who  buy  them. 


I  have  never  had  much  luck  with  two-piece 
stretchers,  but  use  thin  board  stretchers  in  one 
piece  with  a  "sword  stick"  on  each  side  to  fully 
stretch  and  admit  the  air  to  both  sides  of  the 
skin.  This  cures  the  skin  faster  and  better  than 
when  only  one  side  is  exposed  to  the  air,  says  a 
Maryland  trapper. 

When  off  from  home,  I  use  stretchers  made 
from  saplings,  as  boards  suitable  are  not  to  be 
had  everywhere,  and  cannot  be  bothered  with 
when  going  light.  To  make  these,  cut  osier,  wil- 
low or  hickory  switches,  straight  and  thick  as 
the  finger,  about  four  feet  long;  cut  two  short 
pieces  for  rats  4  and  6  inches  long  and  carefully 
bending  the  long  piece.  Nail  these  in  with  a 


304 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


POLE    STRETCHERS. 


SKINNING  AND  STRETCHING.  305 

small  wire  nail  at  each  end.  A  handful  of  shin- 
gle or  lath  nails  and  a  clump  of  osier  sprouts 
will  make  a  full  outfit  of  stretchers  for  a  tem- 
porary camp. 


I  know  it  is  as  much  value  in  stretching  your 
furs  and  preparing  them  for  market  as  it  is  in 
trapping,  writes  a  trapper.  If  you  have  no 
boards,  go  to  your  grocer  or  dry  goods  store  and 
you  can  get  all  the  boxes  you  want  for  5  or  10 
cents  apiece.  They  must  not  be  over  f  of  an 
inch  thick ;  if  they  are,  plane  them  down  smooth 
on  both  sides. 

I  make  what  I  call  the  two  piece  stretcher 
with  a  wedge  for  muskrats.  Take  a  board  20 
inches  long,  f  inch  thick,  6  inches  wide  large 
end,  2^  inches  small  end.  Taper  back  5  inches 
from  small  end.  Now  take  block  plane  and  chaf- 
fer off  each  side  an  inch  or  more  up  and  round  it 
off.  Round  and  chaffer  small  end  the  same, 
almost  to  an  edge.  Now  drawv  a  line  thru  the 
center  of  the  board  and  saw  It  thru. 

Make  a  wedge  the  same  length  and  thick- 
ness, f  of  an  inch  wide  and  tapering  down  to 
1/10  of  an  inch.  If  a  large  skin,  push  it  in  be- 
tween the  halves.  Bore  a  hole  in  large  end  and 
hang  up  in  a  cool  ventilated  place  to  dry.  After 
three  days  pull  out  wedge,  and  your  fur  will 

20 


306  STEEL  TRAPS. 

slip  right  off  without  tearing.  If  the  boards 
should  warp  over,  tack  a  strip  across  the  large 
end. 

The  mink  stretchers  are  made  on  the  same 
plan.  A  board  the. same  thickness,  30  inches 
long,  3£  inches  wide,  taper  down  2-|  small  end 
round  chaffer.  For  large  mink  insert  wedge 
made  one  inch  wide.  Taper  down  to  2/8.  For 
skunk  and  coon  they  are  also  good,  only  they 
are  made  on  a  larger  scale. 

Now  a  word  about  casing.  Pull  your  hide  on 
so  the  back  is  on  one  side  and  the  belly  on 
the  other.  Pull  nose  over  small  end  |  inch.  Put 
two  tacks  on  each  side,  now  pull  down  tight  to 
large  end  and  put  two  tacks  each  side,  lay  board 
on  bench  and  take  an  old  case  knife,  scrape  off 
all  meat  and  fat  and  be  careful  not  to  scrape 
too  thin,  so  as  not  to  cut  the  fibre  of  the  skin. 
After  you  have  scraped  the  flesh  off,  insert  the 
wedge  and  your  skin  will  be  tight.  Do  not 
stretch  your  hide  so  it  will  make  your  fur  look 

thin. 

#         *         # 

This  is  my  way  of  stretching  coon  hide;  use 
four-penny  nails  and  use  either  the  inside  or 
outside  of  some  old  building,  inside  is  the  best. 
Drive  the  first  nail  thru  nose.  This  holds  the 
hide  for  starting.  Pull  each  forward  leg  up  (not 
out)  on  a  level  with  nose  and  about  seven  or 


SKINNING  AND  STRETCHING.  307 

eight  inches  from  nose  according  to  size  of  the 
coon.  Drive  next  nail  at  root  of  tail,  and  pull 
down,  moderately  tight. 

Now  pull  each  hind  leg  out  about  one  inch 
wider  than  the  fore  legs  and  a  little  below  the 
tail  nail.  Now  use  a  nail  every  inch  and  pull 
the  hide  up  between  the  forward  legs  and  nose, 
until  it  comes  straight  across.  Next,  treat  the 
bottom  of  the  hide  the  same  as  the  top.  Use 
plenty  of  nails.  To  finish  down  the  sides,  drive 
a  nail  first  on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other 
until  finished.  You  will  find  when  done  that  the 
hide  is  nearly  square  with  no  legs  sticking  out 
the  sides  and  no  notches  in  the  skin. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

HANDLING  AND  GRADING. 

INK  should  be  cased  fur  side  in  and 
stretched  on  boards  for  several 
days  or  until  dry. 

SKUNK  should  be  cased  fur 
side  in  and  stretched  on  boards 
for  several  days.  The  white  stripe  cut  out  black- 
ened, etc.,  reduces  the  value. 

RACCOON  should  be  stretched  open  (ripped 
up  the  belly)  and  nailed  on  boards  or  the  inside 
of  a  building.  Some  dealers  allow  as  much  for 
coon  cased,  from  any  section,  while  others  prefer 
that  only  Southern  coon  be  cased. 

FOXES  of  the  various  kinds  should  be  cased 
and  put  on  boards  fur  side  in  for  a  few  days,  or 
until  dry.  As  the  pelt  is  thin  they  soon  dry, 
when  they  must  be  taken  off  and  should  be 
turned  fur  side  out.  In  shipping  see  that  they 
are  not  packed  against  furs  flesh  side  out. 

LYNX  should  be  cased  and  after  drying  prop« 
erly  are  turned  fur  side  out,  same  as  foxes. 

OTTER  are  cased  and  stretched  fur  side  in. 
The  pelt  being  thick  and  heavy,  takes  several 
days  to  dry  properly.  They  are  shipped  flesh 
side  out.  Sea  otter  are  handled  the  same  as  fox, 
lynx  and  marten,  that  is,  fur  side  out. 

308 


HANDLING  AND  URAMM;.  309 

BEAVER  are  split  but  stretched  round  and 
should  be  left  in  the  hoop  or  stretcher  for  sev- 
eral days. 

BEAR  should  be  handled  open  and  stretched 
carefully.  In  skinning  be  careful  and  leave 
nose,  claws  and  ears  on  the  hide. 

WOLVES  can  be  handled  same  as  bear,  also 
wolverine. 

FISHER  should  be  cased  and  stretched  flesh 
side  out,  but  may  be  sent  to  market  same  as 
foxes  or  fur  out. 

MARTEN  should  be  stretched  and  dried  on 
boards,  fur  side  in,  but  turned  as  soon  as  dried. 

OPOSSUM  are  stretched  on  boards  fur  side  in 
and  are  left  in  that  condition  after  removing  the 
boards.  Cut  the  tails  off  when  skinning  —  they 
have  no  value. 

MUSKRAT  should  be  stretched  fur  side  in  and 
a  few  days  on  the  boards  is  sufficient.  They  are 
left  as  taken  off,  that  is,  fur  side  in.  Cut  the 
tails  off  when  skinning  —  they  are  worthless. 

WEASEL  should  be  cased,  fur  side  in.  The 
pelts  are  thin  and  soon  dry.  Leave  fur  side  in 
after  taking  off  boards. 

BADGER  are  split  and  should  be  nailed  to  the 
inside  of  a  building  to  dry. 

CIVET  CAT  should  be  cased  and  stretched  on 
boards  fur  side  in.  When  dry  remove  boards 
and  leave  fur  side  int 


310  STEEL  TRAPS. 

RING  TAIL  CATS  should  be  cased  and  after 
removing  boards  are  generally  left  fur  side  in 
for  market. 

WILD  CAT  are  cased  and  stretched  on  boards. 
They  may  be  turned  fur  out  or  left  as  taken  from 
the  stretchers,  fur  side  in. 

HOUSE  CAT  are  cased  and  stretched  on 
boards  fur  side  in.  They  are  sent  to  market 
usually  fur  side  in. 

BABBITS  are  cased  fur  in  and,  as  the  pelt  is 
thin,  soon  dry.  They  are  shipped  fur  side  in. 

PANTHER  are  treated  much  the  same  as  bear. 
Care  should  be  taken  in  skinning  to  leave  claws, 
ears,  nose,  etc.,  on  the  skin  for  mounting  pur- 
poses. 

*         *         * 

My  experience  has  been  that  the  house  which 
makes  only  four  grades  of  prime  goods  is  the 
house  that  you  will  receive  the  largest  checks 
from  for  your  collection,  writes  a  Michigan  col- 
lector of  50  years'  experience.  So  many  grades 
quoted  makes  it  possible  for  a  firm  to  success- 
fully squelch  you  a  little  every  time  you  ship 
and  yet  you  can  have  no  reasonable  excuse  to 
complain  for  when  you  ship,  you  know  that  in 
some  houses  there  is  a  grade  for  nearly  every 
skin  you  send.  So  I,  for  one,  w^ould  rather  risk 
the  fewer  grades. 

A  trapper  from  Wisconsin  says :  For  sample. 


HANDLING  AND  GRADING.  311 

say  mink  are  worth  from  25  cents  to  fS.OO. 
There  would  be  275  prices  between  the  extremes. 
Now  if  he  is  a  fur  buyer  I  certainly  pity  the 
trappers  that  would  have  to  take  those  275  dif- 
ferent prices  for  their  mink.  A  man  should  be 
able  to  know  the  difference  between  grades  No. 
1,  2,  3  and  4,  and  when  he  does  he  is  then  able  to 
give  a  fair  and  honest  price  for  every  skin  he 
buys.  If  he  doesn't  know  the  difference  then, 
he  had  better  get  a  job  clerking  in  a  hotel  or 
sawing  wood. 


Many  have  requested  that  the  difference  in 
the  various  grades  of  skins  be  explained  and 
for  their  benefit,  as  well  as  others  of  little  ex- 
perience, the  following  may  prove  instructive. 

Eaw  furs  are  assorted  into  four  grades,  viz : 
No.  1,  No.  2,  No.  3  and  No.  4.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  skunk  and  muskrat  most  houses  sub- 
divide the  No.  1  skins  into  large,  medium  and 
small.  In  addition  to  this  many  firms  quote  a 
range  of  prices  about  as  follows:  Mink,  North- 
ern New  York,  large  |6.00  to  $8.00.  Would  it 
not  be  more  satisfactory  to  quote  one  price  only? 

It  is  generally  known  that  Minnesota  mink 
are  large.  From  that  state  a  No.  1  medium  mink 
is  as  large  as  a  No.  1  large  from  Maine,  where 
mink  are  rather  small.  But  as  the  dealers  on 


312  STEEL  TRAPS. 

their  price  lists  quote  the  various  states  and 
sections,  why  not  quote  one  price  only  as  follows : 

MINK,  NORTHERN  NEW  YORK,,  No.    1. 

Large,    Medium,    Small,    No.  2,    No.  3,    No.  4, 

$7.00.      $5.00.      $3.00.      $1.50.      $0.75.      $0.20. 

These  figures,  of  course,  are  only  given  for 
illustration  and  are  not  meant  to  show  value. 

Furs  from  the  various  parts  of  North  Ameri- 
ca have  their  peculiar  characteristics  and  it  is 
easy  for  the  man  of  experience  to  tell  in  Avhat 
part  of  the  country  a  pelt  was  caught.  It  may 
;be  shipped  by  a  collector  hundreds  of  miles  from 
where  caught,  but  if  there  are  many  in  the  col- 
lection the  expert  will  soon  detect  it.  This 
knowledge,  however,  only  comes  with  years  of 
experience. 

Prime  skins  are  those  caught  during  cold 
weather  and  the  pelt  after  drying  a  few  days 
is  bright  and  healthy  appearing. 

Unprime  skins  are  those  that  turn  blue  or 
black  after  being  stretched  for  a  time.  Usually 
the  darker  the  pelt  the  poorer  the  fur.  If  only 
slightly  blued  the  pelt  may  go  back  only  one 
grade,  while  if  black  it  is  apt  to  be  no  better 
than  No.  3  or  No.  4  and  may  be  trash  of  no 
value. 

Springy   skins,   as  the   name  indicates,   are 


HANDLING  AND  GRADING.  313 

those  taken  toward  the  last  of  the  season  or  in 
the  spring  and  tho  often  prime  pelted,  have  be- 
gun to  shed.  The  beginner  is  often  deceived,  for 
he  thinks  if  the  pelt  is  prime,  the  fur  is.  Foxes 
and  other  animals  are  often  "rubbed"  toward 
spring,  which  of  course  lessens  their  value. 

A  No.  1  skin  must  be  not  only  average  in 
size  but  free  from  cuts,  etc.  No  unprime  skin 
will  grade  better  than  No.  2. 

Skunk,  to  be  No.  1  or  black,  must  be  prime 
in  pelt,  fair  size  and  stripe  not  extending  be- 
yond the  shoulders.  The  day  that  only  "star 
black"  were  taken  for  No.  1  is  passed,  for  most 
trappers  and  shippers  know  better  now. 

A  No.  2,  or  short  striped  skunk,  is  prime  and 
the  stripes,  if  narrow,  may  extend  nearly  to  the 
tail.  A  small  No.  1  or  a  blued  No.  1  is  graded 
No.  2. 

A  No.  3  or  long  stripe  has  two  stripes  extend- 
ing the  entire  length,  but  there  must  be  as  much 
black  between  the  stripes  as  either  of  the  white 
stripes. 

In  some  of  the  states,  sucli  as  Minnesota, 
Iowa,  the  Dakotas,  etc.,  skunk  are  large  and  are 
nearly  all  striped  the  same — long  narrow  stripes 
— but  owing  to  their  size  they  are  worth  about 
the  same  as  the  eastern  short  stripe  or  No.  2. 

A  No.  4,  broad  or  white  skunk,  is  prime  but 
has  two  broad  stripes  extending  down  the  back. 


314  STEEL  TRAPS. 

Most  dealers  class  skunk  as  No.  4  if  either 
white  stripe  contains  more  white  than  there  is 
black  between  the  two  stripes. 

All  unprinie  skunk  are  graded  down  to  No.  2, 
3  and  4  according  to  depth  of  fur  and  stripe.  A 
No.  1  skunk  in  stripe,  but  blue,  becomes  a  No. 
2,  or  if  badly  blued  No.  3  or  4;  a  No.  2  skunk 
in  stripe  but  blue  becomes  a  No.  3;  a  No.  3  in 
stripe  but  blue,  a  No.  4;  a  No.  4  in  stripe  but 
blue  generally  goes  into  trash.  In  fact,  if  badly 
blued,  any  of  the  grades  may  be  thrown  to  trash. 

Muskrat  are  assorted  into  four  grades  — 
spring,  winter,  fall  and  kitts.  Spring  rats  are 
known  as  No.  1;  winter,  No.  2;  fall,  No.  3; 
Kitts,  No.  4. 

No.  1  or  spring  rats  are  those  taken  in  March 
and  April.  The  pelt  is  then  of  a  reddish  color 
and  is  entirely  free  from  dark  spots.  A  fewr 
spring  rats  may  be  caught  earlier  than  March, 
but  so  long  as  they  show  dark  spots  they  are 
not  No.  1. 

No.  2,  or  winter  rats,  are  pretty  well  furred, 
but  there  are  dark  streaks  and  spots  in  the  hide 
usually  on  the  back. 

No.  3  or  fall  are  not  full  furred  and  the  pelt 
is  far  from  prime.  The  dark  streaks  show  much 
more  than  later  in  the  season. 

No.  4,  or  kitts,  are  only  partly  grown  or  if 
larger  are  badly  damaged. 


HANDLING  AND  GRADING.  315 

Opossum  is  the  only  animal  that  may  have  a 
"prime"  pelt  but  an  "unprime"  coat  of  fur.  This 
makes  opossum  rather  difficult  to  assort  unless 
turned  fur  side  out. 

If  opossum  have  been  properly  skinned  and 
stretched  they  will,  when  unprime,  show  a  dark 
blue  spot  on  the  under  side  at  the  throat.  The 
plainer  this  spot  the  poorer  the  fur. 

Good  unprime  skins  are  No.  2 ;  poor  unprime 
skins,  No.  3;  the  very  poor  and  stagey,  no  fur, 
are  No.  4,  generally  known  as  trash  and  of  no 
value. 

The  other  fur-bearers,  such  as  mink,  otter, 
beaver,  fox,  wolves,  lynx,  wild  cat,  fisher,  rac- 
coon, bear,  badger,  civet  cat,  weasel,  etc.,  are 
graded  much  the  same  that  is,  all  skins  to  be  No. 
1  must  be  caught  in  season,  when  the  fur  is 
prime,  at  which  time  the  "pelt"  is  healthy  ap- 
pearing—  never  blue  or  black  —  must  be  of 
average  size,  correctly  skinned,  handled  and  free 
of  cuts  or  shot  holes. 

Skins  may  be  unprime  from  several  causes, 
viz. :  caught  too  early,  improperly  handled, 
under  size,  etc.  Unprime  skins  are  graded  No. 
2,  3  and  4  according  to  how  inferior  they  are. 
The  fairly  well  furred  unprime  skins  are  graded 
No.  2 ;  the  low  furred  unprime  skins  are  thrown 
to  No.  3 ;  the  poorly  furred  are  thrown  to  No.  4, 
while  low  stagey  skins  go  to  trash. 


316  STEEL  TRAPS. 

Some  skins  altho  prime  are  so  small  that 
they  grade  No.  3.  This,  however,  is  the  excep- 
tion rather  than  the  rule.  Usually  if  prime,  the 
under  size  will  only  put  the  skin  down  one 

Srade-  * 

I  have  bought  some  for  a  number  of  years, 
writes  a  collector,  and  know  that  some  trappers 
are  like  some  farmers,  they  want  as  much  money 
for  a  bushel  of  dirty  wheat  as  their  neighbor  gets 
for  a  bushel  of  clean  wheat.  I  have  had  skunk 
and  opossum  hides  offered  me  that  had  a  pound 
or  two  of  tainted  fat  on  them,  and  skins  that 
were  taken  out  of  season,  for  which  they  expect 
to  get  No.  1  prices. 

There  are  some  who  stretch  their  skins  in 
the  shape  of  an  oblong  triangle  and  leave  flesh 
enough  on  to  make  their  dinner.  Stretch  your 
hides  as  near  the  shape  of  the  animal  as  pos- 
sible ;  don't  try  to  make  a  muskrat  hide  as  long 
as  a  mink,  or  a  mink  as  wide  as  a  muskrat. 
Catch  in  season,  flesh  carefully,  stretch  in  good 
shape,  always  take  bone  out  of  tails,  keep  in  an 
airy  building  until  dry  and  then  you  will  not 
have  to  grumble  so  much  at  the  buyer  in  regard 
to  prices. 


CHAPTER   XXXI. 

FROM   ANIMAL   TO   MARKET. 

NDER  this  title,  says  an  experienced 
Western  trapper,  I  shall  endeavor 
to  show  my  brother  trappers  how 
to  handle  pelts  : 

As  soon  as  I  get  in  from  my  traps 
(I  use  a  team  and  wagon),  I  feed 
team,  dogs  and  self,  then  I  proceed  to  skin  the 
game  in  the  usual  manner;  when  game  is  all 
skinned  I  put  on  my  fleshing  suit,  made  of  rub- 
ber cloth  like  that  buggy  curtains  are  made  of, 
get  out  my  fleshing  boards,  of  which  I  have  three 
sizes  —  large,  medium  and  small  —  for  each  kind 
of  cased  skins  except  rat,  which  I  flesh  with 
thumb  and  knife.  The  fleshing  boards  are  like 
Fig.  1  on  enclosed  diagram,  made  of  1  inch  pine 
free  from  knots  and  dressed  on  both  sides,  3  feet 
6  inches  long,  and  for  skunk  J  in.  and  10  in.  wide, 
tapered  up  to  a  blunt  point,  edges  rounded  and 
sandpapered  smooth.  These  boards  can  be  made 
of  other  sizes  so  as  to  fit  larger  or  smaller  pelts 
of  other  kind. 

For  a  flesher  I  have  tried  nearly  everything 
imaginable,  dull  knives,  hardwood  scrapers,  etc., 
but  have  abandoned  them  all  for  the  hatchet.  I 

317 


318 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


use  an  old  lath  hatchet  head"  and  use  it  tolerably 
sharp ;  I  proceed  as  follows :  Put  pelt  on  board 
but  do  not  fasten,  grip  lower  edge  with  left  hand. 


FlGr. 


FLESHING  BOARD. 


pull  down  hard,  place  point  of  board  against 
breast  and  use  hatchet  with  right,  pushing  down 
and  holding  hatchet  nearly  flat;  use  plenty  of 


FROM  ANIMAL  TO  MARKET. 


319 


elbow  grease;  as  fast  as  you  get  a  strip  cleaned 
off  turn  hide  a  little  but  do  not  flesh  on  edge  of 


FIG..  2 


8  PENNY  NAIL.. 
CLINCHED 


-F-TWO.SIX   PENNV  NAILS- 


STRETCHING  FRAME. 

board.  It  may  not  work  good  at  first  and  you 
may  cut  one  or  two  hides,  but  you  will  soon  get 
the  knack. 


320  STEEL  TRAPS. 

If  possible  take  a  bitch  skunk  for  the  first  as 
they  flesh  easier,  and  be  sure  there  are  no  burrs 
or  chunks  of  mud  in  the  fur,  or  you  will  cut  a 
hole  the  size  of  the  burr.  Now  for  the  stretch- 
ers. In  Fig.  2  is  what  I  use ;  it  is  something  of 
my  own  invention,  and  there  is  no  patent  on  it. 
It  is  made  of  any  wood  that  will  split  straight, 
and  the  dimensions  are  as  f olloAvs :  Pieces  are  4 
ft.  long  by  If  in.  dressed  smooth;  pieces  are 
1|  x  f  in. ;  wrill  say  for  large  skunks  here  they 
would  be  10  in.  and  4J  in.  To  frame  you  must 
soak  or  steam  the  long  pieces;  mitre  the  ends 
and  fasten  with  3d  finishing  nails  clinched. 
Then  place  in  position  1  in.  from  ends  and  fasten 
with  two  6d  finishing  nails ;  place  in  position  and 
pull  up  to  8  in.  from  nose  and  fasten :  now  cham- 
fer off  edges  and  sandpaper  smooth. 

I  like  this  stretcher,  as  it  airs  both  sides  of 
pelt  and  will  dry  them  in  half  the  time.  Fig  3 
shows  manner  of  fastening  pelt;  on  belly  side  it 
can  be  drawn  down  and  fastened  to  tail  pieces 
with  sack  needle  and  twine ;  it  is  made  of  two  or 
more  poles  fastened  in  the  shape  of  a  hoop. 

In  shipping  f ur^  bale  tight ;  do  not  ship  loose 
in  sack ;  place  mink  and  rat  inside  of  skunk  and 
other  fur,  and  always  place  the  toughest  pelts  on 
outside.  By  bailing  tight  you  will  avoid  crink- 
ling and  they  will  not  look  mussy  and  will  bring 
from  5  to  10  per  cent.  more.  Now,  brother  trap- 


FKOM  AXKMAL  TO  MARKET. 


321 


pers,  fleshing  pelts,  as  I  understand  it,  is  not 
merely  taking  the  fat  off,  but  in  going  deeper 


TACK 


Fis.  3 


TACK 


TACK 


SKIN   ON    STRETCHER. 


and  taking  the  flesh  clean  from  the  pelt  so  that  if 
skunk,  the  stripe  will  show  clear  the  full  length 
and  reducing  the  weight  by  half.  On  February 

21* 


322  STEEL  TRAPS. 

2nd  I  shipped  15  skunk,  all  large;  the  lot  only 
weighed  9  pounds  including  sack. 

When  stretching  skunk  and  otter  skins,  if 
the  weather  is  warm,  split  the  tails,  open  and 
tack  flat.  Split  open  half  way  all  others  that 
have  fur  tails.  Open  pelts  can  be  stretched  in 
hoops  made  of  one  or  more  poles  an  inch  or  so  in 
diameter,  and  sewed  in  with  a  sack  needle  and 
heavy  twine. 

In  stretching  do  not  get  the  pelt  so  wide  that 
the  fur  looks  thin,  or  so  long  and  narrow  that  it 
looks  as  if  a  horse  had  been  hitched  to  each  end. 
Keep  the  natural  shape  of  the  animal  as  much  as 
possible,  dry  in  a  cool,  airy  place  inside,  or  on 
the  north  side  of  a  building  and  away  from  fire. 

Baling  —  here  is  where  the  expert  trapper 
shows  his  craft,  and  in  baling  you  will  see  him 
wipe  off  all  surplus  fat  and  dirt  and  place  the 
heavy  pelts  on  the  outside  of  his  pack.  The  light- 
er furs,  such  as  mink,  marten,  cat,  etc.,  will  be 
placed  inside  of  the  skins  that  are  heavier.  For 
instance:  From  four  to  eight  rats  or  mink,  in- 
side of  a  fox  or  skunk.  He  will  place  the  head 
of  one  to  the  tail  of  another,  the  tails  folded  in. 
He  now  ties  a  cord  tightly  around  each  end, 
placing  them  on  a  square  of  burlap,  and  with 
sack  needle  and  twine  draws  up  the  sides  as  tight 
as  he  can ;  then  he  folds  in  the  ends  and  sews  up 
snug.  Furs  thus  packed  reach  the  market  in 


FKOM  ANIMAL  TO  M 


323 


good    shape,   and   not   such   as   they   would   if 
crammed  promiscuously  into  a  sack. 

In  conclusion,  boys,  let  me  suggest  a  maxim 


Fi.e.4-. 


WRAP  WITH  WIRE  AT  JOINTS. 


HOOP    STRETCHER. 


or  two  for  your  guidance:  "Prime  caught  and 
well  handled  furs  always  bring  top  prices." 
"Take  pride  in  your  catch,  no  matter  how  small." 


324  STEEL  TRAPS. 

While  the  heading  of  this  chapter  is  "From 
Animal  to  Market"  it  is  well  when  shipping  to 
request  the  dealer  to  grade  and  send  value.  If 
satisfactory,  write  to  send  on  check.  If  not  sat- 
isfactory, have  dealer  return  furs. 

When  shipping  furs  under  these  conditions 
see  that  no  green  skins  are  sent  —  only  properly 
cured  ones. 

While  some  dealers  offer  to  pay  expressage 
^oth  ways  w^e  hardly  think  this  fair  and  if  no 
deal  is  made  the  dealer  should  pay  the  express- 
age  one  way  and  the  shipper  the  other. 

The  Hunter-Trader-Trapper,  published  a^ 
Columbus,  Ohio,  in  the  interests  of  hunters, 
trappers  and  dealers  in  raw  furs  contains  a  great 
deal  of  information  that  will  be  of  value  along 
the  line  of  shipping  furs  as  well  as  trapping 
methods,  etc. 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

MISCELLANEOUS    INFORMATION. 

How  to  Tan  Skins. 

GIVE  below  several  success- 
ful receipts  for  tanning 
skins  and  furs  of  all  kinds, 
but  if  you  have  never  tanned 
skins  before  I  would  advise 
you  to  make  your  first 
attempt  on  some  skin  of 
small  value,  writes  an  ola 
hunter  and  trapper.  Re- 
move all  flesh  from  a  skin  before 
putting  thru  the  tanning  process 
by  laying  it  over  what  is  called  a  fleshing  beam 
and  scraping  with  a  dull  knife;  the  fleshing 
beam  is  nothing  more  than  a  beam  with  edges 
rounded  and  a  log  peeled  of  the  bark  will  an- 
swer the  purpose  very  wrell. 

First  remove  the  hair  from  the  hide  by  put- 
ting in  5  gallons  of  water,  2  gallons  of  slacked 
lime,  2  quarts  of  wood  ashes  and  3  ounces  of 
soda.  After  the  hair  has  become  loose,  try  soak- 
ing in  this  mixture,  remove  it  by  scraping  it  off 
with  a  stick  (be  careful  not  to  let  it  get  on  the 
hands,  as  it  is  very  irritating  to  the  skin) .  This 

325 


326  STEEL  TRAPS. 

receipt  can  be  altered  according  to  the  number  of 
hides  you  have  to  tan.  The  amount  given  here 
is  enough  for  2  or  3  hides  ( such  as  goat,  dog  and 
animals  of  that  size.) 

Next  draw  the  lime  from  the  skin  by  putting 
it  in  a  bath  composed  of  5  gallons  of  water,  2 
quarts  of  wheat  bran,  4  ounces  of  acetic  acid 
and  ^  pound  of  salt.  Finally  put  the  skins  in  a 
mixture  of  5  gallons  of  water,  1  pound  of  salt, 
1|  pounds  of  gambia,  and  5  ounces  of  acetic  acid. 
Leave  the  skins  in  each  process  about  three  days, 
take  them  out  often  and  pull  and  work  them. 

When  you  think  the  skin  is  done,  take  it  and 
put  it  on  a  stretcher  like  a  coon  stretcher,  but  of 
course  altered  to  fit  the  skin  you  are  tanning; 
stretch  the  skin  tight  but  not  too  tight  and  put 
in  the  sun;  at  intervals  of  half  an  hour  apply 
with  a  brush  or  rag  mixtures  number  three  until 
the  skin  will  soak  up  no  more. 

Do  this  about  three  times  and  then  put  the 
skin  in  the  shade  or  some  cool  place  where  there 
is  a  free  circulation  of  air  to  dry.  Lastly,  when 
dry,  oil  flesh  side  of  the  skin  lightly.  This  leather 
if  tanned  right  is  the  best  you  can  get,  but  the 
objections  is  that  a  trapper  in  the  woods  does 
not  always  have  a  drug  store  near  to  purchase 
the  tanning  material  which  is  rather  expensive, 
so  I  will  give  a  few  cheap  methods  also. 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION.          327 

The  way  the  Indians  tan  skins  in  the  woods 
is  to  take  the  brains  of  the  animal  and  rub  the 
flesh  side  of  the  skin  with  them  until  it  is  rubbed 
in  good;  they  then  let  them  dry,  working  and 
pulling  them  until  thoroughly  dry.  To  tan  mole, 
squirrel  and  such  skins,  draw  the  skin  over  a 
corn  cob  or  board  and  place  it  in  the  sun,  then 
apply  sweet  oil  every  24  hours.  After  doing  this 
about  five  times  rub  over  with  fine  alum. 

To  tan  for  lashes,  first  remove  hair,  then  put 
in  1J  handfuls  of  alum  and  3  handf uls  of  salt  in 
2  gallons  of  water ;  this  leather  is  all  right  until 
it  gets  wet,  then  it  is  ruined. 

To  tan  for  furs,  rub  flesh  side  of  the  skin 
with  two  parts  saltpeter  and  one  part  alum,  roll 
and  let  it  dry,  then  work  soft.  To  dry  the  hair 
side  of  skins,  take  two  parts  wheat  bran  and 
one  part  clean  sand,  heat  it  and  rub  it  in  the  hair 
side  of  skin  till  dry. 

To  tan  light  deer  skins  and  such  skins  as 
sheep,  dog,  etc.,  put  in  three  quarts  of  rain  Tvater, 
one  ounce  of  sulphuric  acid  and  a  handful  of 
salt ;  put  in  the  skin,  stir  around  for  about  five 
minutes,  take  it  out  and  work  dry,  then  it  can  be 
smoked  and  is  ready  for  use.  I  think  that  by 
following  the  above  directions  closely  you  can 
tan  any  skin  that  can  be  tanned. 


328 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


Camps  and  How  To  Build  Than. 

The  trapper  who  spends  the  entire  trapping 
season  far  from  civilization  must  know  how  to 
make  a  comfortable  camp  or  he  is  likely  to  pay 
dearly  for  his  lack  of  knowledge.  Especially  is 
this  the  case  if  his  trapping  is  done  in  the  far 
North  where  the  winters  are  long  and  severe. 


THE   HOME    SHAXTY. 

The  trapper  should  have  one  good  "home 
shanty"  to  be  used  as  a  base  of  supplies  for  stor- 
ing furs,  etc.  He  should  also  have  small  camps 
located  along  his  lines  at  convenient  distances  so 
that  he  can  spend  the  night  with  some  comfort 
if  he  has  gone  too  far  to  return  to  the  home 
camp. 

The  home  camp  is  generally  a  substantial  log 


MISCELLANEOUS   INFORMATION.          329 

shack.  It  should  be  located  in  a  sheltered  spot, 
if  possible,  on  some  little  knoll  or  slightly  ele- 
vated spot  of  ground  and  as  close  to  good  fire 
wood  and  good  drinking  water  as  possible.  The 
proper  size  of  camp  depends  on  the  number  of 
persons  in  the  party.  A  shanty  10  x  12  feet  inside 
is  largo  enough  for  two  persons.  If  it  is  larger  it 
will  be  harder  to  keep  warm.  For  a  camp  of 
this  size  the  logs  should  be  cut  12  and  14  feet 
long  so  as  to  allow  for  the  notching  of  the  cor- 
ners. Of  course  the  logs  should  be  straight  and 
they  should  be  as  near  the  same  thickness  as  pos- 
sible. 

Having  selected  a  spot  for  the  camp  and. 
cleaned  aAvay  the  brush,  etc.,  commence  by  lay- 
ing two  of  the  14  foot  logs  parallel  with  each 
other  and  about  ten  feet  apart.  Cut  notches  in 
the  ends  of  these  logs,  cutting  down  about  half 
the  thickness  of  the  logs  and  lay  two  of  the  12 
foot  logs  in  the  notches.  The  next  step  is  the 
floor  which  should  be  made  of  straight  poles 
about  five  or  six  inches  thick  and  11  or  12  feet 
long.  They  should  be  fitted  down  solidly  on  the 
two  long  logs  and  may  be  flattened  on  top  with 
an  axe,  or  with  an  adz  after  the  camp  is  finished. 
Then  fit  in  two  more  14  foot  logs  which  will  hold 
the  floor  poles  down  solid. 

The  door  frame  or  boxing  should  be  cut  off 
square  at  the  ends  and  butted  lip  against  the 


330  STEEL  TRAPS. 

door  frame  and  held  there  by  driving  spikes  thru 
the  frame  into  the  logs.  Use  all  the  large  logs 
on  one  side  so  as  to  be  ready  for  the  roof.  The 
simplest,  as  well  as  one  of  the  best,  kind  of  roofs 
is  made  of  poles,  chinked  with  moss  and  covered 
with  tar  paper  or  birch  bark.  The  bark  roof  is 
the  most  lasting  but  requires  more  work.  The 
door  may  be  made  of  split  cedar,  or,  if  cedar  is 
not  to  be  found,  if  may  be  hewn  out  of  almost 
any  kind  of  wood.  For  windows,  a  couple  of 
small  panes  of  glass  may  be  fitted  in  openings, 
cut  between  the  logs,  and  all  the  cracks  should 
be  chinked  with  moss  to  make  it  warm. 

There  are  a  number  of  good  stoves  in  the 
.market,  but  I  prefer  to  make  my  own  stoves.  A 
good  stove  may  be  made  of  sheet  iron  by  bending 
it  so  as  to  form  the  top  and  two  sides,  riveting 
an  end  in  behind  and  hinging  a  door  in  front. 
It  has  no  bottom,  being  set  in  a  box  of  earth,  but 
be  sure  that  there  is  enough  dirt  or  it  will  burn 
thru  into  the  floor.  Holes  should  be  cut  in  top 
for  pipe  and  cooking  pots  and  strips  of  hoop  iron 
should  be  riveted  on  inside  to  stiffen  top. 

For  stopping  camps  along  the  trap  lines,  the 
Indian  tepee  or  wigwam  is  as  good  as  any.  They 
may  be  made  of  birch  bark  or  tar  paper  and  if 
they  are  covered  thickly  with  boughs  and  banked 
with  snow  it  will  only  require  a  small  fire  to 
keep  them  warm.  If  you  are  fortunate  enough 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION.          331 

to  possess  a  rabbit  skin  blanket  such  as  are 
made  by  the  Chippewa  Indians  you  will  not  need 
to  keep  a  fire  at  night. 

Trappers  Shelter. 

I  noticed  under  the  head  of  Short  Letters  in 
January  number  of  H-T-T  where  one  Bacellus 
of  New  York  wishes  to  know  something  more 
about  camps  in  the  woods,  or  how  to  keep  dry 
and  warm  in  cold  and  wet  weather,  writes  a 
Michigan  trapper.  This  is  how  I  build  a  camp 
along  a  trapper's  trail : 

I  cut  the  logs  about  9  feet  long,  cut  them 
small  enough  so  one  man  would  be  able  to  han- 
dle them.  If  cut  from  dry  cedar  or  other  light 
wood,  they  can  be  of  good  size.  I  lay  the  logs 
up  on  three  sides  until  the  walls  are  about  5^ 
feet  high,  then  I  procure  two  stakes  about  8.  or 
9  feet  long  with  a  crotch  on  one  end ;  the  other 
end  I  sharpen  so  it  can  be  driven  in  the  ground 
outside  the  open  end  of  the  camp.  There  are  also 
two  shorter  stakes  placed  inside  of  the  camp  just 
opposite  the  outside  ones  and  tied  together  at 
top  with  a  withe,  wire  or  piece  of  rope  —  those 
stakes  are  intended  to  hold  the  ends  of  the  logs 
together,  and  also  act  as  a  support  for  the  roof, 
which  is  made  shanty  fashion.  I  next  place  a 
pole  about  5  inches  thick  by  10  feet  long  across 
from  one  crotched  stake  to  the  other.  Now  from 


332 


STEEL  TRAPS. 


the  back  wall  to  the  top  hole  I  place  scoops  made 
out  of  split  logs  hollowed  out  with  axe.  They 
are  placed  split  side  up  and  another  scoop  placed 


A    LINE    SHANTY. 


over  the  first  two.  Short  pieces  of  logs  are  put 
in  under  the  last  outside  scoops  and  every  crack 
is  mossed  up  tight,  and  a  bunk  placed  across  the 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION.          333 

about  a  foot  from  the  ground,  and  fire  built 
in  the  center  of  open  side.  By  placing  2  crotched 
stakes  in  the  ground  like  the  first  pair  about  5 
feet  from  them,  and  placing  a  pole  across  the 
tops  and  then  two  short  brace  pieces  between 
these  two  top  poles.  After  this,  straight  poles 
ten  feet  long,  about  what  one  man  can  handle, 
are  taken  and  placed  all  around  the  outside  or 
open  end  of  camp.  This  prevents  the  smoke 
from  whirling  'round  the  camp,  and  it  goes  up 
straight. 


GINSENG  PLANT. 
.Showing  Root,  Stock.  Leaves  and 

This  Is  only  one  of  about  75  illustrations  shown  in  "  Ginseng  and  Other 
Medicinal  Plants  '  as  described  on  opposite  page.  The  illustrations  are  of 
actual  "gardens,"  as  well  as  some  fifty  of  the  most  valuable  medicinal  plants 
true  to  life.  After  reading  this  book  and  looking  closely  at  the  illustrations 
you  should  be  able  to  distinguish  the  various  plants.  The  paper  used  is  of 
good  quality  so  that  the  illustrations  are  clear  and  distinct. 


Ginseng  and  Other 
Medicinal  Plants 


j|HIS  book  contains  about  300  pages  and  75  illustra- 
tions (see  opposite  page  for  one  of  them)  with 
chapters  on  the  following :  The  Story  of  Ginseng ; 
Something  About  Ginseng;  Cultivation  of  Gin- 
seng; Marketing  Ginseng;  Seeds  and  Roots;  Letters 
From  Ginseng  Growers ;  Government  Reports ;  Ginseng 
in  China;  General  Information;  Habits  of  Ginseng; 
Ginseng  Prices ;  Diseases  of  Ginseng ;  Medicinal  Qual- 
ities ;  Golden  Seal  Cultivation ;  Plants  as  a  Source  of 
Revenue ;  List  of  Plants  Having  Medicinal  Value ; 
Gigantic  Mint  Farm  in  Michigan. 

The  publishers  say— A  Book  of  Valuable  Information 
for  Growers  and  Collectors  of  Wild  Medicinal  Plants- 
Tells  How  to  Grow,  Medicinal  Uses,  Value,  Etc. 

Much  additional  information  is  also  given  about  other 
Plants  which  furnish  Root  Drugs,  such  as :  Male  Fern; 
Wild  Turnip;  Skunk  Cabbage;  Sweet  Flag;  Helonias; 
American  Hellebore;  Aletris;  Bethroot;  Wild  Yam;  Blue 
Flag v  Lady's  Slipper;  Crawley  Root;  Canada  Snake- 
root;  Serpentaria  (Southern  ,Snakeroot)  ;  Yellow  Dock; 
Pokeweed;  Soapwort;  Goldthread;  Black  Cohosh; 
Oregon  Grape;  Blue  Cohosh;  Twinleaf;  Mayapple ; 
Canada  Moonseed;  Bloodroot;  Hydrangea;  Indian 
Physic;  Wild  Indigo;  Crane's  Bill;  Seneca  Snakemot; 
Stillingia;  Wild  Sarsaparilla;  Water  Eryngo;  American 
Angelica;  Yellow  Jasmine;  Pinkroot;  American 
Colombo;  Black  Indian  Hemp;  Pleurisy  Root;  Comfrey; 
Stoneroot;  Culvers  Root;  Dandelion;  Queen-of-the- 
Meadow ;  Elecampane  ;  Echinacea ;  Burdock. 

A  good  photograph  of  each  of  these  is  shown  with 
the  description.  Considerable  money  can  be  made  col- 
lecting and  preparing  for  the  market.  This  book  ex- 
plains in  detail. 


Price,  cloth  bound,  postpaid,  $1.00 


SCIENCE  OF  TRAPPING 

Describes  the  Fur  Bearing  Animals,  Their  Nature,  Habits 
and  Distribution,  with  Practical  Methods  of  Their  Capture 


This  book   contains  245  pages,    5x7   inches,   with  more   than 
40  illustrations,  many  of  which  are  full  page  of  the  various  fur 
bearing      animals,       also      several 
pages  of  tracks. 

The  author,  Mr.  E.  Kreps,  in 
his  introduction  says:  "In  order 
to  be  successful,  one  must  know 
the  wild  animals  as  a  mother 
knows  her  child.  He  must  also 
know  and  use  the  most  practical 
methods  of  trapping,  and  it  is 
my  object  to  give  in  this  work, 
the  most  successful  trapping  meth- 
ods known.  These  modes  of  trap- 
ping the  fur  bearing  animals  have 
for  the  most  part  been  learned 
from  actual  experience  in  various 
parts  of  the  country,  but  I  also 

five  the  methods  of  other  success- 
ul  trappers,   knowing  them  to  be 
as   good    as   my   own.     I   am  per- 
sonally   acquainted    with    some    of 
the  most  expert  trappers  in  North 
America,    and    have   also   followed 
the  Indians  over  their  trap  lines,   and  in  this  way  have  learned 
many  things  which  to  the  white  man  are  not  generally  known." 
This   book   contains   twenty-four   chapters,    as   follows: 


!  I 


1.  The  Trapper's  Art 

2.  The   Skunk. 

3.  The   Mink. 

4.  The   Weasel. 

5.  The   Marten. 

6.  The   Fisher. 

7.  The    Otter. 

8.  The   Beaver. 

9.  The   Muskrat. 

10.  The    Fox. 

11.  The   Wolf. 

12.  The   Bear. 


13.  The  Raccoon. 

14.  The    Badger. 

15.  The   Opossum. 

16.  The    Lynx. 

17.  The  Bay  Lynx  or  Wild  Cat, 

18.  The   Cougar. 

19.  The  Wolverine. 

20.  The  Pocket   Gopher. 

21.  The    Rabbit. 

22.  Tracks  and   Signs. 

23.  Handling    Furs. 

24.  Steel  Traps. 


The  chapter  on  TRACKS  AND  STGNS  contains  sixteen 
pages  —  eleven  of  description  and  five  of  illustrations. 

The  author  goes  into  detail,  telling  where  the  tracks  and 
signs  of  the  various  animals  are  most  apt  to  be  found.  This 
with  an  accurate  drawing  of  the  footprints,  makes  the  chapter 
on  TRACKS  AND  SIGNS  alone  worth  dollars  to  the  young 
and  inexperienced  trapper,  while  the  distribution,  nature,  hab- 
its, etc.,  will  prove  interesting  to  all.  This  book  is  rightly 
named  —  Science  of  Trapping. 

Price,  Postpaid,  Cloth  Bound,  60  Cents. 


Camp  §nd  Trail  Methods 

Interesting  Information  for  all  Lovers  of 
Nature.    What  to  Take  and  What  to  Do 


By  E.  KREPS 


This  book,  one  of  the  most  practical  works  on  woodcraft 
ever  written,  was  brought  out  to  fill  a  vacancy  in  outdoor 
literature.  There  are  numerous 
works  on  this  subject  but  they  were 
written  for  the  sportsman  and  the 
city  camper,  therefore,  the  informa- 
tion given  in  them  is  not  of  value  to 
the  practical,  outdoor  man.  CAMP 
AND  TRAIL  METHODS  is  intended 
for  woodsmen,  country  people, 
mountain  men,  prospectors,  trap- 
pers and  the  hardy  outdoor  people 
in  general,  the  people  who  read  the 
H-T-T,  each  and  every  one  of 
whom  the  author  is  proud  to  call  a 
brother,  for  he  is  one  of  their  kind. 
To  them  this  work  will  not  only  be 
interesting  but  also  be  valuable  as  it 
gives  information  which  cannot  be 
obtained  elsewhere.  The  work  was 
run  in  installments  in  the  H-T-T 
but  has  been  revised  before  putting 

in  book  form.  Much  information  has  been  added  and  many 
new  illustrations  have  been  used.  It  contains  274  pages  and  68 
illustrations.  There  are  19  chapters  as  follows: 

1.  Pleasures     and     Profits     of    11.     Snowshoes    and    their   Use. 

Camping. 

2.  Selecting  a  Camp   Outfit. 

3.  Clothing  for  the   Woods. 
Pack    Straps,    Pack    Sacks, 


4.  , 

and    Pack    Baskets. 

5.  Cooking      Utensils,       Beds 

and    Bedding. 

6.  Firearms. 

7.  Hunting  Knives  and  Axes. 


12.  Snowshoe    Making. 

13.  Skis,    Toboggans  and  Trail 

Sleds. 

14.  Provisions   and    Camp 

Cookery. 

15.  Bush    Travel. 

16.  Traveling  Light. 

17.  Tanning    Furs    and    Buck- 

skins. 


18.    Preserving  Game,  Fish  and 
Hides. 


8.  Tents  and    Shelters. 

9.  Permanent    Camps. 

10.    Canoes    and  Hunting  Boats.    19.    Miscellaneous     Suggestions. 

The  book  is  attractively  bound  in  cloth  and  printed  on  nice 
paper,    size   5x7  inches. 


Price,  Postpaid,  Cloth  Bound,  60  Cents. 


Bee  Hunting 

A  BOOK  OF  VAI,TJABI,F,  INFORMATION  FOR  BF,F, 

HUNTERS.    Tells  How  to   I/ine   Bees   to  Trees,   Etc. 


The  following  is  taken  from  the  Authors 
Introduction    to   BEE   HUNTING 


M^ 
kinds  have  been  written,  but 
outside  of  an  occasional  article 
In  periodicals  devoted  to  bee  litera- 
ture, but  little  has  been  written  on 
the  subject  of  Bee  Hunting.  There- 
fore, I  have  tried  in  this  volume — 
Bee  Hunting  for  Pleasure  and  Profit 
— to  give  a  work  in  compact  form, 
the  product  of  what  I  have  learned 
along1  this  line  during  the  forty 
years  in  nature's  school  room. 

Brother,  if  in  reading  these  pages, 
you  find  something  that  will  be  of 
value  to  you,  something  that  will 
inculcate  a  desire  for  manly  pastime 


and  make  your  life  brighter,  then 
my  aim  will 


.  hare  been  reached. 


The  book  contains  13  chapters  as  follows : 

X.  Bee  Hunting:. 

II.  Early  Spring  Hunting. 

III.  Bee  Watering— How  to  Find  Them. 

IV.  Hunting  Bees  from  Sumac. 

V.  Hunting  Bees  from  Buckwheat. 

VI.  Fall  Hunting. 

VII.  Improved  Mode  of  Burning. 

VIII.  Facts  About  I,ine  of  Flight. 

IX.  Baits  and  Scents. 

X.  Cutting  the  Tree  and  Transferring. 

XI.  Customs  and  Ownership  of  Wild  Bees. 

XII.  Benefactors  and  Their  Inventions. 

XIII.  Bee  Keeping  for  Profit. 

This  book  contains  80  pages,  paper  cover. 
Price,  postpaid,  only  25  cents. 

A.  R.  Harding  Pub.  Co.,  Columbus,  Ohio 


HUNTING  DOGS. 

Describes  in  a  Practical  Manner  the  Training,  Handling,  Treat- 
ment, Breeds,  etc.,  Best  Adapted  for  Night  Hunting, 
as  well  as  Gun  Dogs  for  Daylight  Sport. 

This  book  contains  253  pages,  5 
x  7  inches,  45  illustrations  show- 
ing the  various  breeds,  hunting 
scenes,  etc. 

The  author,  Mr.  Oliver  Hart- 
ley, in  his  introduction  says:  "As 
if  hunting  for  profit,  night  hunt- 
ing for  either  pleasure  or  gain 
and  professional  hunting  gener- 
ally had  no  importance,  writers 
of  books  have  contented  them- 
selves with  dwelling  on  the  study 
and  presentation  of  matters  relat- 
ing solely  to  the  men  who  hunt 
for  sport  only.  Even  then  the 
Fox  Chase  and  Bird  Hunting  has 
been  the  burden  of  the  greater 
per  cent,  of  such  books. 

Chapter  part   One— Hunting    Dogs. 

1.  Night  Hunting  7.    Training— For     Squirrels 

2.  The  Night  Hunting  Dog  and    Rabbits 

—His  Ancestry  8.    Training         the         Deer 

3.  Training      the      Hunting  Hound 

Dog  9.     Training— Specific  Things 

4.  Training  the  Coon  Dog  to  Teach 

5.  Training       for       Skunk,        10.    Training — Random     Sug- 

Opossum  and  Mink  gestions       from     Many 

6.  Wolf   and    Coyote   Hunting  Sources 

Part   II  —  Breeding   and   Care   of   Dogs. 
Chapter  14.    Breeding    (Continued) 

11.  Selecting   the   Dog  15.    Peculiarities        of      Dogs* 

12.  Care  and   Breeding  and    Practical    Hints 

13.  Breeding  16.    Ailments    of    the    Dog 

Part  III  —  Dog  Lore. 

Chapter  18.    The    Dog    on    the    Trap 

17.     Still     Trailers    vs.     Ton-  Line 

guers.    Music  10.     Sledge  Dogs  of  the  North 

Part   IV  —  The?  Hunting    Dog    Family. 

20.  American    Fox    Hound  24.     Scotch        Collies.    House 

21.  The     Beagle     Dachshund  and  Watch  Dogs 

and    Basset   Hound  25.    A     Farmer    Hunter— His 

22.  Pointers      and       Setters-  Views 

Spaniels     t  26.    Descriptive       Table      of 

23.  Terriers — Airedales  Technical   Terms 

The  contents  show  the  scope  of  this  book  and  if  you  are 
at  all  interested  in  hunting  dogs,  you  should  have  this 
work.  The  book  is  made  up  not  only  from  the  author's 
observation  and  experience,  but  that  of  scores  of  success- 
ful night  as  well  as  daylight  hunters.  This  book  will  not 
interest  the  field  trial  dog  men  but  is  for  the  real  dog  men, 
who  delight  in  chases  that  are  genuine. 
Price,  cloth-bound,  postpaid,  60c. 

A.  R.  HARDING  PUB.  CO.,  Columbus,  Ohio 


;THE  PLEASURI 


CAMP  AND  TRAIL 

The  prettiest  and  biggest  weekly  sporting  public; 
tion,  at  the  lowest  price  explains  the  rap 
growth  of  this  journal.   CAMP  AN 
TRAIL  was  established  Decen 
ber  4,   1909,  and  fro 
the  very  first  was  r< 
ceived    with    favc 
/      Why  ?    Because   tl 
publishers    and    edit 
gave  "you  fellows"  wh 
'•?ztf     was  wanted. 

In  general   CAMP  AN 
•:J    TRAIL  is  devoted  to  Hun 
/   ing,  Fishing,  Camping,  Boa 
/  ing,  Prospecting,  Trapping  ar 
7  kindred  subjects. 
/       One  of  its  strong  features  is  tl 
' '  Old    Pioneer    department 
incidents  of  the  Early  Days  fro 
all  parts  of  America.  ^Che  Brofiie 
hood  Qallery — Pictures  and  sketcl 
of  Camp  and  Trail,  Outdoor  enthuj 
•j   asts  is  receiving  a  royal  welcome. 
/   this  department  as  well  as  many  othe 
the  full  address  is  usually  given,  co  th 
readers  can  correspond. 

If  you  are  a  hunter  and  wish  to  kno 
what  "fellow  hunters"  are  doing,  read  th< 
if  accounts  of  recent  trips  in  CAMP  and  TRA1 


If  you 

are   a   trapper, 

read    the    accounts    of 

"fellow    trappers"     from 

Tarious   parts  of  America, 

you  like  fishing,  camping  and  boating 

you  will  find  the  accounts  of  "your  fellows"  in  this  weekly ;  if  you  are  a  trader  of 

pelts  or  roots  and  wish  to  "keep  posted"  you  will  find  the  fur  markets  given  each  w 

during  the  season  as  well  as  market  letters  from  the  various  Raw  Fur  Centers, 

CAMP  AND  TRAIL  contains  24  or  more  pages  during  the  Winter  months,  7^x  10K  inch 


3  columns  to  the  page,  printed  on  good  quality  paper  and  splendidly  illustrated — and  all  for  only  $1 .5C 
year  in  the  United  States  ;  $2.00  in  Canada.  If  you  have  never  read  a  copy  send  5  cents  for  one 
you'll  like  it.  Remember  CAMP  AND  TRAIL  comes  weekly— 52  times  a  year. 

A.  R.  HARDING  PUBLISHING  CO.,  Columbus,  Ok 


SPECIAL  OFFER— BOTH 


PROFIT  PAIR" 


iUNTER  -  TRADER  -  TRAPPER 


you   want  practical  information   on  Hunting, 
rapping,     Prospecting,      Raw     Furs, 
imping,     Fur     Farming,    Ginseng 
rowing,  etc.,  etc.,  you  will 
id    the   HUNTER- 
I ADER -TRAPPER 
ust  fills  the  bill"  as 

contents   is  largely 
ade  up  from  happenings 
readers — telling  of  their 
tnting,  trapping  and  other 
nilar  experiences. 
The  HUNTER-TRADER- 
TAPPER   is    an   up-to-date 
astrated  magazine  containing 
»m    160  to   200   pages   each 
3nth.       During   the    year   the 
elve  issues  contain   upwards  of 
•00  pages  and  about  700  illustra- 
ns  and   all  for  $1.00— It  is  the 
ow,   When  and   Where  magazine, 
mong  the  regular  departments  are 
g  Game  Hunts  ;  Guns  and  Ammuni- 
n ;  Fish  and  Fishing ;  Coon  Hunting ; 
ght  Hunting  Dogs ;  Scents  and  Baits  ; 
;adfalls  and  Snares ;  Steel  Traps  ;  Best 
apping  Methods;  Trappers*  Letters;  Raw 
r    Markets ;      Questions   and   Answers ; 
nadian    Letters;     Northern,  Central  and 
uthern  Letters;  Young  Trappers*  Letters, 


etc.  If  you 
want  to  keep 
posted  — HOW, 
WHEN,  WHERE— better 
send  in  your  subscription  at  once, 
e  magazine  is  one  of  great  interest  and  much  information.  Remember  the  editor  has 
jely  spent  his  life  as  a  hunter,  trader,  trapper  so  that  he  knows  what  to  publish  for 
ir  pleasure  and  profit.  Subscription  price  $  1 .00  year,  single  copy  1 0  cents. 


HINTS  FOR  HUNTERS  AND  TRAPPERS- A  64-page  booklet,  containing  Game  Laws,  Trapping 
rets,  together  with  description  of  thirteen  books  on  Hunting,  Trapping  and  Outdoor  Life,  sent  free. 

.  R.  HARDING  PUBLISHING  CO.,   Columbus,  Ohio 


'HER  ONE  YEAR  $2.25 


II. 
III. 
IV. 

V. 

VI. 

VII. 

VIII. 

IX. 

X. 
XI. 
XII. 

XIII. 
XIV. 

XV. 

XVI. 

XVII. 

XVIII. 

XIX. 

XX. 

XXI. 

XXII. 

XXIII. 

XXIV. 

XXV. 

XXVI. 

XXVII. 

XXVIII. 

XXIX. 

XXX. 

XXXI. 

XXXII. 

XXXIII. 

XXXIV. 

XXXV. 

XXXVI. 

XXXVII. 


CANADIAN  WILDS 


Tells  about  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company, 
Northern  Indians  and 
their  modes  of  hunting, 
trapping,  etc. 

This  book  contains  277 
pages,  sizes  5x7  inches,  is 
printed  on  good  quality 
heavy  paper,  not  illus- 
trated, and  contains 
thirty- seven  chapters  as 
follows: 

The  Hudson  Bay  Company. 

The   "Free   Trader." 

Outfitting  Indians. 

Trackers   of  the  North. 

Provisions  for  the  Wilderness. 

Forts  and  Posts. 

About  Indians. 

Wholesome  Foods. 

Officer's  Allowances. 

Inland  Packs. 

Indian  Mode  of  Hunting  Beaver. 

Indian   Mode    of   Hunting   Lynx   and 
Marten. 

Indian  Mode  of  Hunting  Foxes. 

Indian   Mode    of   Hunting    Otter    and 
Musquash. 

Remarkable  Success. 

Things  to  Avoid. 

Anticosta  and  its  Furs. 

Chiseling   and   Shooting   Beaver. 


The  Indian  Devil. 

A  Tame  Seal. 

The  Care  of  Blistered  Feet. 

Deer — Sickness. 

A  Case  of  Nerve. 

Amphibious  Combats. 

Art  of  Pulling  Hearts. 

Dark  Furs. 

Indians  are  Poor  Shots. 

A  Bear  in  the  Water. 

Voracious  Pike. 

The  Brass  Eyed  Duck. 

Good  Wages  Trapping. 

A  Pard  Necessary. 

A  Heroic  Adventure. 

Wild  Oxen. 

Long  Lake  Indians. 

Den  Bears. 

The  Mishap  of  Ralson. 

This  book  is  from  the  pen  of  a  Hudson's  Bay 
Officer  (Martin  Hunter)  who  has  had  40  years  ex- 
perience with  the  Hudson's  Bay  Co— from  1863  to 
1903.  During  that  time  he  was  stationed  at  different 
Trading  Posts  in  Canada.  Price,  cloth  bound,  post 
paid,  60  cents. 


Fox  Trapping. 

A  Book  of  Instructions  Telling 
How  to  Trap,  Snare,  Poison  and 
Shoot.  A  Valuable  Book  for  Trap- 
pers. 

Contains  about  200  pages  and  60  Illustrations 
divided  into  Twenty-two  Chapters  as  follows: 


1  General  Information. 

2  Baits  and  Scents. 

3  Foxes  and  Odor. 

4  Chaff  Method,  Scent. 

5  Traps  and  Hints. 

6  All  Around  Land  Set. 

7  Snow  Set. 

8  Trapping  Red  Fox. 

9  Red  and  Grey. 

10  Wire  and  Twine  Snare. 

11  Trap,   Snare,  Shooting  and 
Poison. 


12  My  First  Fox 

13  Tennessee    Trapper's 
Method. 

14  Many  Good  Methods. 

15  Fred  and  The  Old  Trapper. 

16  Experienced  Trapper  Tricks 

17  Reynard  Outwitted. 

18  Fox  Shooting. 

19  A  Shrewd  Fox. 

20  Still  Hunting  the  Fox. 

21  Fox  Ranches. 

22  Steel  Traps. 


If  all  the  methods  as  given  In  this  book  had  been  studied  out  by 
one  man  and  he  began  trapping  when  Columbus  discovered  Ame-ica 
more  than  four  hundred  years  ago,  he  would  not  be  halt  completed. 
CLOTH  BOUND  60c.,  POSTAGE  INCLUDED. 


/Wink  Trapping 

A  Book  of  Instructions  giving 
many  Methods  of  Trapping.  A. 
Valuable  Book  for  Trappers. 

Contains  nearly  200  pages  and  over  50  lllus-* 
tratlons  divided  into  Twenty  Chapters  as  foU 
lows: 


11  Unusual  Ways. 

12  Illinois  Trapper's  Methods. 

13  Experienced  TrappersWays 

14  Many  Good  Methods. 

15  Salt  Set. 

16  Log  and  Other  Sets. 

17  Points  for  the  Young  Trap- 
per. 

18  Proper  Size  Traps. 

19  Deadfalls. 

20  Steel  Traps. 

The  methods  as  published  are  those  of  experienced  trappers  from 
all  parts  of  the  country.  There  is  money  made  in  catching  mink 
if  you  know  how.  After  reading  this  instructive  book,  you  will 
surely  know.  If  you  only  catch  one  more  prime  mink  it  will  pay 
for  the  book  several  times. 

£LOTH  BOUND  606.,  POSTAGE  INCLUDED. 


1  General  Information. 

2  Mink  and  Their  Habits. 

3  Size  and  Care  of  Skins 

4  Good  and  Lasting  Baits. 
6  Bait  and  Scent. 

6  Places  to  Set. 

7  Indian  Methods. 

8  Mink  Trapping    on  the 
Prairies. 

9  Southern  Methods. 
10  Northern  Methods. 


Land  Cruising 
and  Prospecting 


a  valuable  book  for  homesteaders,  hunters,  trap- 
pers, guides,  etc.  The  writer — Mr.  A.  F.  Wallace, 
an  experienced  surveyor,  land  cruiser  and  pros- 
pector—in his  introduction  says:  "To  the  men 
who  follow  the  compass,  the  trap  and  the  trail  this 
work  is  inscribed.  It  is  not  intended  for  the  "Profes- 
sors" who  can  tell  you  all  about  things  after  they  are 
done  (by  somebody  else)." 

The  publishers  say :  A  book  of  Valuable  Information 
for  hunters,  trappers,  land  cruisers,  prospectors  and  men 
of  the  trail — tells  how  to  locate  one's  self  on  the  map,  etc. 
This  book  contains  about  200  pages  5x7  inches,  is 
printed  on  good  quality  paper,  with  nearly  40  illustra- 
tions and  contains  20  chapters  as  follows : 

I.     Maps.  rXI.    Poor  Man's  Ore  Mill. 

II.     The  Compass.  XII.    Prospecting  for  Fur. 

III.  Examining  and  Locat-          XIII.    Prospecting  for  Pearls. 

ing.  XIV.    Prospecting  for  Bees. 

IV.  Early  Surveys.  XV.    Rations  and  Camp 
V.     Corner  Marks.  Cookery. 

VI.     Miscellaneous    Inform-  XVI.  Camp  Kits. 

ation.  XVII.  Guns,  Axes  and  Pack- 

VII.     Points   for  Homestead-  straps. 

ers.  XVIII.  Building  Cabins*  Tan- 

VIII.     Prospecting  for  Gold.  ning,   Etc. 

IX.     Sampling  Ore.  XIX.  Getting  Lost, 

X.     How  to  Locate  a  Claim.  XX.  The  Red  River  Trapper. 

This  book  is  practical  and  may  be  worth  many  times 
the  price  to  you.  Remember  it  is  written  by  one  who 
has  had  many,  many  years  of  experience. 


Price,    Cloth    Bound,     Postpaid,    60    Cents 
A.  R.  Harding  Publishing  Co.  :  :  :  Columbus,  Ohio 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW 


AN  INITIAL  FINE  OP  25  CENTS 

WILL  BE  ASSESSED  FOR  FAILURE  TO  RETURN 
THIS  BOOK  ON  THE  DATE  DUE.  THE  PENALTY 
WILL  INCREASE  TO  SO  CENTS  ON  THE  FOURTH 
DAY  AND  TO  $1.OO  ON  THE  SEVENTH  DAY 
OVERDUE. 


WAR  1 


' 


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LIBRARY  USE 


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UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


